Precise1 Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 If it was used as a breaker bar (exceeding it's torque specs), it is not longer accurate. That's just the way it works... And Precise tell us how you make your torque wrench last so long? Oh yeah. now I remember DON'T ever use it as a breaker bar! Damn, is that the secret?? And to think that I just stumbled across it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 I got my shiny new breaker bar specifically so I don't gotta do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 I need one of them things... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 I need one of them things... HF for 12 bucks, got a 25" 1/2" drive Love it already! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Is it a quality tool? Well made with heavy metal and stout? Or is it chintzy? I cannot deal with chintzy tools, that's one of my pet peeves... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) Is it a quality tool? Well made with heavy metal and stout? Or is it chintzy? I cannot deal with chintzy tools, that's one of my pet peeves... Oh yeah, i don't have any complaints, there is a little play back and forth when putting pressure on it, but because of the design, its expected and nothing unreasonable...they even put a spring in it to stop it from rattling or being obnoxious... The drive attachment is great, it really sticks onto the socket, and I even used a 4" extension with it so I wouldn't take the tire off.... Cool thing, is that it swivels BOTH ways....i'll make a little diagram! _________________________ I ______ I --------------_________ ________________ ________-------------------- I Ya digg? It is def hefty, I can get it ready to go on the bolt, and just sit it there w/o worrying about it falling off....its nice and stout, I don't think I could break it if I tried Edited September 30, 2009 by OldSlowReliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Then if it is what you say it is you just sold me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Torque wrench, I bought a Craftsman years ago(like before I could 'legally' drive but would take my brothers car because he would get on my nerves). It's been replaced under the hand tool warranty twice(mine is not a fancy digital one, twist the handle to the spec you want and listen for the click). I've jumped on them dropped and thrown them, had my current one pass me on the road leaving it on my rear bumper a fiew years ago, etc... I basicly abuse it and use it daily. As for breaker bar, I have me a Matco. Once again lifetime warranty and after getting broke a couple times from generic ones(normally found in junk cars) I learned I like to keep skin on my hands and ponyed up the bucks for a decent one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Then if it is what you say it is you just sold me... The only down side I found was it made it hard to do anything FAST......mostly cause it doesn't ratchet or anything, but then again its meant to just break that first spin of stuckness..... I am a fan of how it has a full range of motion, really helps maneuver and get it into position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 The beam style torque wrenches aren't too expensive, and work pretty good, as long as you are actually watching the pointer on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 The biggest problem with the beam types, especially at the higher torques, it can be difficult to be in a position to be able to read the scale/pointer at all, if not properly. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 I have a click and pointer type torque wrench that I use for stretching screens (unfortunately I can't take em home!) The pointer is nice for things like stretching the screens, where its a nice slow process and I can constantly monitor the ft/lbs, and it doesn't REALLY matter where it is as long as its in the general vicinity..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 i'ved used a cheap clicker from pepboys for like 8 years...never had an issue with warped heads over 2 years so I suspect that it was calibrated well enough...I had to buy a new one b/c someone I let borrow it never gave it back and I can't remember who borrowed it so I bought another clicker from autozone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 (edited) Here is my stance on HF tools. I am a cheap A$$ But I will not waste money twice. I have every basic tool (multiples set in each vehicle and a set in the house and a set in the garage) They are all mid grade HF tools. I have a set of Husky (home depot in the garage). along with a bunch of Misc Snap on and craftman, mac tools. When I need a new tool I buy one from HF. If it breaks I exchange it for a new one and keep it for light jobs and Then I go straight for a Snap on or a craftsman. I am well ahead on costs from the broken ones to the money I saved buying cheap after buying the craftsman/ snap-on tools. Just in case you guys do not know HF was Lifetime In-store exchange for there Hand tools. That alot of the time does not mean squat if the tool keeps breaking cause it is not worth the hassle of taking in after breaking it each time you use it. That being said I have 3 HF torque Wrenches. I have a friend with some craftman Beam style torque wrenches. Evry so Often I check my Hf ones to his craftman wrenches and they have not been more than 2-3 lbs off. After a quick adjustment they satay perfect for a while. If you guys are using the clicker torque wrenches a good rule to keep them calibrated longer is to not store them set to a torque setting. Store them loosened and adjust them each time before use and loosen them after use. I found that if I left them set they were more off when I checked them. Some of HF tools have not broken yet, That does not mean that they are not Crap, It just means I have not used them much or have not pushed them to the limit. when they break they get the free exchange and then they go on lite duty and I buy the Premium Brand tool. Keep in mind I do not depend on my tools for business. If I did, My views would be a lot different Just My 2 cents, Probably not worth it. Edited October 1, 2009 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very good points. If you guys are using the clicker torque wrenches a good rule to keep them calibrated longer is to not store them set to a torque setting. Store them loosened and adjust them each time before use and loosen them after use. I found that if I left them set they were more off when I checked them. This is not a recommendation, this is a rule. Always unwind a clicker (set to lowest setting) for storage... I have cheap and expensive tools also, the cheaper usually given to me or part of kits, bonus tools, etc. The cheaper set stays in the truck; I'll use those the least and if someone steals them, it won't hurt so much. The last time a wrench broke on me, I wound up punching concrete. Nothing broken, but one knuckle gives me grief sometimes. This is my main arguement against having tools that could break. They will break when you have significant force on them and you can easily have a nasty knuckle buster or gash as a result. How much is damage, pain and risk of premanent injury worth to avoid?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Very good points.This is not a recommendation, this is a rule. Always unwind a clicker (set to lowest setting) for storage... I have cheap and expensive tools also, the cheaper usually given to me or part of kits, bonus tools, etc. The cheaper set stays in the truck; I'll use those the least and if someone steals them, it won't hurt so much. The last time a wrench broke on me, I wound up punching concrete. Nothing broken, but one knuckle gives me grief sometimes. This is my main arguement against having tools that could break. They will break when you have significant force on them and you can easily have a nasty knuckle buster or gash as a result. How much is damage, pain and risk of premanent injury worth to avoid?? B Yep. only flaw with my rule is they have to break on me first before I get the quality ones. So I only will "punch the concrete once pr tool" If I know it is going to be a stubborn part I will grab the quality tool to start with. Again you use tools for a ling and have probably broken more that your fair share. I don't use mine that much. so I go cheap. I do appreciate a quality tool when I see it / use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 I have a 1.5" scar on the back of my right hand from when a crappy wrench broke on me when I was trying to remove the transfer case from my old Pathfinder. I was pulling hard on the wrench trying to turn a tough bolt and a prong sheared off and my hand came back into some thin square bracket and gashed right into my hand. Nerve damage and one hell of a bloody mess. The hand still tingles now and then from that, and it was almost a year ago. I was swearing up a storm about that crappy wrench all night long. Hopefully soon I can put my Evolve tools to the test and see how strong they really are... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I have a 1.5" scar on the back of my right hand from when a crappy wrench broke on me when I was trying to remove the transfer case from my old Pathfinder. I was pulling hard on the wrench trying to turn a tough bolt and a prong sheared off and my hand came back into some thin square bracket and gashed right into my hand. Nerve damage and one hell of a bloody mess. The hand still tingles now and then from that, and it was almost a year ago. I was swearing up a storm about that crappy wrench all night long. Hopefully soon I can put my Evolve tools to the test and see how strong they really are... I generally get a feeling when a tool is going to give. (or at least prepare myself) But sometimes you get pissed when working on your junk and lose you head, that is when I normally start damaging myself. A few times I stopped while working on something and said that thing is going to break. Then I go gram the real tool. I have even broke the good stuff. That is when I get torqued (pardon the pun) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 (edited) I punched steel more than a few times doing my body lift....but my knuckles are so f'd up already that it doesn't make too much a difference! lol I was really planning on buying quality tools, mainly craftsman (family swears to them, grandpa had thousands of dollars in tools from them) and I adore their policy on replacing tools (no matter how old they are they will replace them or something like that) To tell you the truth, I can't remember a time that a tool has failed on me.....I don't usually push them too hard either, and most of which are tools that have been passed down, or tools my ma has bought for one reason or another (usually task force) so its not like I'm using complete junk....but none the less, aside from the occasional drill bit i don't see myself pushing tools hard enough to warrant $7 a piece combination wrenches, and $100 torque wrenches \ So yeah...... Edited October 2, 2009 by OldSlowReliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I have a 1.5" scar on the back of my right hand from when a crappy wrench broke on me when I was trying to remove the transfer case from my old Pathfinder. I was pulling hard on the wrench trying to turn a tough bolt and a prong sheared off and my hand came back into some thin square bracket and gashed right into my hand. Nerve damage and one hell of a bloody mess. The hand still tingles now and then from that, and it was almost a year ago. I was swearing up a storm about that crappy wrench all night long. Hopefully soon I can put my Evolve tools to the test and see how strong they really are... I have a chipped tooth over a Snap-On ratchet. The expensive ones break too(not sticking up for cheapies). As for the clicker torque wrench storage. If you pay atention to the case you get with it, it actually ony fits in correctly when unwound. Never thought that was a coincidence personally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I generally get a feeling when a tool is going to give. In all seriousness, I don't know what you do for a living now, but I'm pretty sure I could double it if I was your agent. No joke!! The human stress analysis/material fatigue machine would do wonders!! I have broken less than 1/2 a dozen tools (that have been used properly) in over 25 years of wrenching and every time there was an aftermath of OMG WTF when I tried to figure out what happened and figure out if/how I was hurt. I understand that budget applies and yes, I work with tools (not a mechanic) so I am a bit more focused on them. The other side is I know what bang for buck is best; lets face it, most of us here jacking up our own suspension are not going to stop messing with cars any time soon... It's all good. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I've busted a bunch of sockets, the chromies snap easily, no matter the make. At least Craftsman are a quick trip to the closest Sears for a new one. As for Harbor Frieght, I tend to buy the more non-precision tools (chip brushes and such) or tool accesories there (sand paper, grinding wheels, etc.). I did buy a brake caliper kit there, but for as often as I use it, it is just fine. I had some snap ring pliers from there, but they bent without much force and didn't budge the snap ring. I also got some knock off Vice Grip clamps they had, and they won't hold tension, they just pop loose. I have contemplated a couple Chicago Electric tools, but have been gun-shy on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Soon my dad and I are going to do the struts on his r50. We have a store here called princess auto, its like HF. Anyway we need spring compressors...I don't think I want to trust the r50 front springs to a 40 dollar set of compressors! I usually buy my "need it right now to finish the job" tools at a place called TSC. They're called can-pro and are lifetime warranty. I used one for my o2 sensor and it was just fine. And that thing was in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 They'll work fine as long as they are the 2 and 1 prong external screw kind. Just grease the threads first. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 3, 2009 Share Posted October 3, 2009 I've had excellent results with my cordless 18V DeWalt HD impact. It's been dropped, stepped on and generally abused. Still runs like a top. Puts out 300 ft-lbs of torque. A quick google search will reveal many have had positive experiences with it. HOWEVER, as with all cordless items, battery is critical. If the battery's low or I'm doing extended work on high-torque parts that require precision - such as the suspension - I use an air impact that goes up to 600 ft-lbs. The DeWalt is hideously expensive - $250 new on sale if you're lucky. Less used/craigslist. But in the past year, it has never failed and saved me a good deal of time and money. No, it isn't cheap and it isn't something a lot of people would buy. But there's no denying its effectiveness. x25 on the torque wrench. Items such as lug nuts and suspension pieces are critical safety items that depend on being torqued correctly. I wouldn't risk it for $13... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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