Driveshaft: transfer case output yoke......

[rydsno]

I'm wondering if I can remove the u-joint in the rear drive shaft and pull the yoke out of the back of the transfer case? Will fluid come out or is it sealed? I think the dust shield is causing some issues and I want to have a look to see if there is some dirt build-up in there or if the seal needs replacing.

[unccpathfinder]

it'll leak a lil bit...if you park it with the nose down hill it shouldnt leak...or remove the Tbars it shouldnt leak

[adamzan]

Or jack up the rear end but put blocks in front of the front wheels

[beastpath]

could be a good time to change t-case fluid

[rydsno]

OK thanks, does the yoke pull out quite easily? I might change the fluid and rear seal while i'm at it. Any recommendations on oil type?

[unccpathfinder]

yea its really easy to come out...a lot of people will recommend redline? make sure you put the correct quantity in and fill from the shifter...

 

I've used the valvoline that is supposed to be GL4/5 compliant and haven't had any transmissions let go on me yet although both have some syncro issues but were like that before I got them. 1 tranny has 150k+ miles on it and the other has 275k+ miles on it and as far as i know they're both OEM

[GrimGreg]

Yeah, you can just pull the shaft right out of the rear of the T-case, but it will "bleed".

 

FYI there are slip yoke eliminators available for our T-cases, but you need to buy/have made a slip-joint drive shaft if you install one.

[rydsno]

Thanks all.

[87pathy]

yea its really easy to come out...a lot of people will recommend redline? make sure you put the correct quantity in and fill from the shifter...

 

I've used the valvoline that is supposed to be GL4/5 compliant and haven't had any transmissions let go on me yet although both have some syncro issues but were like that before I got them. 1 tranny has 150k+ miles on it and the other has 275k+ miles on it and as far as i know they're both OEM

 

 

hes asking about the t-case not the tranny.

 

and you only have to fill from the shifter on the tranny if its a 89 or older (iirc)

 

and for the record.

 

SCREW REDLINE.

[RedPath88]

and for the record.

SCREW REDLINE.

 

Why the heavy opinion?

[87pathy]

 

Why the heavy opinion?

 

I have always ran dyno oil (dynosaur, fossil fuel) in all my rigs.

Never ever had any problems.

 

However, dyno in the grade WE need for the nissan tranny is getting hard to find.

 

so, I ponnied up the dough and bought redline. (something like 13 bucks a quart, so at 5 quarts, its pretty spendy).

 

I ran it for about 3-4 weeks and my tranny - t- case seal failed. It could be coincidence but the seal was new. (1 year, I changed it when i did the T-case gears) all my oil drained out of the tranny and into the T-case when i was about 50 miles from nowhere. I had to drive it out. when i got it home I pulled the drain plug and there was only about 1 quart that came out. and my t-case was FULL.

 

I spend 60 bucks got a 5 gallon bucket of Omala 320 (which is sae 150) its a little thick, but nearly 2 years later when i drained it to do the doubler the oil was MINT. I know this oil is OK to run with soft metals because its what my company uses in their 100K dollar gear boxes with soft metals.

 

tranny is still good.

 

so, i will never again buy any synthetic oil for gear boxes.

[RedPath88]

Fair enough

As with all things there are average results and then results at the extreme of both ends of the spectrum.

 

 

After my tranny failed, I gave up the cash for Redline as well (as you said, dyno oil that meets our needs is getting hard to find) And as of now, so far so good

[BonnerBB]

Just got off of the phone with Royal Purple and he said that I don't have a syncro nor a transmission problem and that putting sae150 in the transmission will most likely not fix my problem. He said my clutch and clutch slave most likely have moisture in them and that I need to bleed the clutch and clutch slave.

 

He said the moisture in the lines is causing the clutch to not fully disengage and bleeding the lines will most likely will solve my grinding problem.

 

I am going to have this done today and will report back..

 

B-