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CV axle install problem.


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Hey,

I have an 89 Pathfinder, 3.0 5spd with autolock hubs. I went to change both of my front axles, wheel bearings and seals. Everything came out fine but when i went to put the new axle in i can not get axle to come through spindle enough to get the C-clip back on. I'm pretty sure ive got everything in the right order, Axle, spacer(chamfered edge toward axle), Spindle, Lock Nut, Lock that screws to Lock Nut, Some kind of clutch piece for auto hub, washer with tabs going into cluch piece, splined disc, C-clip. Is that right? This has got me really frustrated and i can't even get the old axle to go back in so i know somethings wrong. Any help would be greatly appricated.

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hmm....I cant remember the exact order for the auto hubs but I thought you put the slined washer on and then the spring retainer and then the rest of the hub slid on but I cant remember off the top of my head...hopefully someone will chime in...

 

are the bearings seating all the way in the races? b/c I know i had some issues with bearings before but they wouldnt even go over the spindle

old bearing:

20500780009_large.jpg

 

new bearing:

20500780008_large.jpg

 

I doubt this helps but here is my warn manuals:

 

20500780012_large.jpg

Edited by unccpathfinder
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if the bearings are all seated then get a pair of vice grips large enough to grab the axle. clip em on and have sombody pull the axle toward the hub untill it comes out far enough for the snap ring.

You may also try a thinner snap ring.

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I'm almost 100% sure your wheel bearings are not tight enough. You may need to put a tire on, and wiggle back and forth to try to get the bearings to "seat".

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Im pretty sure ive got the bearings to seat, the haynes manual says that hub B, spacer A(one with tabs), and spacer B(splined disc) go on before the snap ring. Ive even got so fed up with it i pulled it all back off the truck removed the hub and tried to get the snap ring to go on that way. And still nothing, without those three pieces for the auto hubs it would go on easy, but with them stacked together its maybe .025" from being able to seat. I guess ill go try it again, ill update when i get home and maybe i can get some pics if my cousins camera is working. Thanks for all the help and if anyone can think of any other ideas let me know.

 

BTW, this is my first foriegn vehicle and i think its going to be my last, Ive grown up around American cars, mainly mustangs, And ive never had this much trouble trying to get something to go back together. Makes me want to sell the damn thing, or maybe put in a solid axle so i wont have to worry about doing Cv axles anymore....

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BTW, this is my first foriegn vehicle and i think its going to be my last, Ive grown up around American cars, mainly mustangs, And ive never had this much trouble trying to get something to go back together. Makes me want to sell the damn thing, or maybe put in a solid axle so i wont have to worry about doing Cv axles anymore....

 

now that's not the attitude to have...I probably won't ever own a newer american make vehicle unless its a diesel truck or a 71 chevelle...would like to buy my 64 scout back if the guy hasnt destroyed it yet but it didnt hurt my feelings to let the trailduster or cj7 go...

 

when you torqued the bearings down did you rotate the wheels several times in both directions...loosen the torque then retorque it? .025 is not a lot...I've never had problems except for my bearing issue above and you obviously don't have that going on...did you replace the races and they're seated all the way in? you did compare the old parts with then new parts prior to installation?

 

Just wait until you go to do a timing belt or starter. you'll love life even more ;) I can definitely say that I've watned to kick several engineers in the kahona's but I've done the same on some american makes i've worked on...they just usually have a lot more room

 

good luck

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Well, Im back from my cousins garage. Still couldn't get it to go in and. I followed the manual for the wheel bearing install. Spun the hub both ways while tightening. Loosened and re-tightened. Races are seated fully, all parts were compared to what came out and all look/measure the same. But I'm going to nissan tommorow to see if they have some thinner C-clips. I assume since you adjust axle endplay with C-clip thickness, they may have some sort of kit with different sizes. Mine was .059" thick. i think the thinnest the book said could be used was .047", but im not sure. Guess ill see tommorow.

 

And i have already done the timing belt, only took a few hours. And im not saying that I am master mechanic. But i am pretty good at working on cars, pretty much rebuilt my entire mustang shy of the engine and transmisson. Ive worked on many different kinds of vehicles, which is why this has been so frustrating because i should be able to do this. But i assume its something small that i just haven't figured out yet. Thanks for the help guys.

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Ordered C-clips today from nissan. I got 1.3mm as mine were 1.5 so hopefully they'll go in. They better for 5 dollars each and having to wait a week to get them....Thanks again for the help guys, I'll let yall know how everything goes when i get them.

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well I'm sorta sharing your pain right now...not completely but I got the front axle back in today flawlessly...which never happens i literally had it in in less than 20 mins by myself...I'm upfitting to a 95 which has different CVs well I thought it was just the bolt pattern on but it turns out its the shaft diameter too...so now I have to swap spindles over...so much for the front end being quick and easy

 

good luck...at least yours will be drivable before mine ;)

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Ordered C-clips today from nissan. I got 1.3mm as mine were 1.5 so hopefully they'll go in.

That's only .008" thinner. That's not much...

 

its maybe .025" from being able to seat.

 

:shrug:

 

B

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Mine was .059" thick. i think the thinnest the book said could be used was .047", but im not sure. Guess ill see tommorow.

when I did my Manual hub sawp my autos were installed with .047 clips. the clips that the donor vehicle (HB with factory manuals) were .052 or .054 IIRC.

I wound up using staying with the thinner ones because I couldn't get the thicker ones on. even then I stuck a screwdriver in the groove to keep it exposed long enough to get the ring on.

Edited by MY1PATH
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Well my thinner clips came in, and they will seat in the groove of the axle. One side is back together and the other will be tomorrow morning. Ill let yall know how the test drive and everything goes. Thanks again for the help guys.

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glad you're getting it all worked out...i can't wait for my nightmare in the next couple of weekends...i found out that the CVs don't only have different bolt patterns from 1st gen to 2nd gen but different diameters so now i have to swap spindles...which i think they have different tapers on hte tie rods and CL and steering gear so i may be up fitting all of that stuff...joy

 

good luck hope it works out

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Well shes all done. I was doing the work in my cousins garage and he has 73 acres in the appalachain mtns, so my first test drive was to see if the 4x4 worked right and all the sounds were gone. Everything worked great and my hubs engage alot smoother now then they did before. After that i took it down the highway and the slight shake is gone so im a happy camper right now. Thanks again for the help guys.

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