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tilt in L/F tire


WiredWrong
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I hit a big hole while I was mudding/snowing and the L/F tire sits at a angle now eatting my tires up real bad .

 

any rate I've replaced all the items linked to the wheel .

upper ball joint/lower ,CV axle , tie rod end etc.

 

the rig is still sitting at a angle here are some pictures

need some input

post-7041-1229896639_thumb.jpg

post-7041-1229896649_thumb.jpg

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Did you check that your control arms aren't bent?

- Tie Rods need to be adjusted properly.

- Did you check where the control arms mount to the frame for bending?

 

Something is WAY out of whack there...

 

 

upper and lower control arms are fine , the R/F side is fine all looks the same .

I don't understand why the L/R is tilting for . all parts are new all items are in spec .

 

 

I'm thinking of just selling it .... have way to many rigs

Edited by WiredWrong
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Well...if everything was in spec, the wheel wouldn't be cocked like that...

 

There's something you're missing...

 

Can you pull off the wheel and take a picture of the suspension to give us a closer look?

 

 

 

sure give me 5 mins

 

heres link

http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/8042/dsc00671ni5.jpg

Edited by WiredWrong
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could you have bent a knuckle? i know they're pretty tough but if all else is ruled out then...?

grab a knucle of a junker, I've never seen nissan @ Pull A Part(lakewood) that didn't have any so chances are it will be an easy find.

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Can't really see much in that picture...but thanks....looks like the TREs are good, maybe adjusted a bit long judging by the toe of your truck.

 

could you have bent a knuckle? i know they're pretty tough but if all else is ruled out then...?

grab a knucle of a junker, I've never seen nissan @ Pull A Part(lakewood) that didn't have any so chances are it will be an easy find.

 

Unlikely, but it's possible. They are very tough. I've never had a problem finding used knuckles either...

 

I'm thinking the most likely happening is that the forward LCA mounts at the frame bent, or the frame itself bent where the LCA mounts, causing the wheel to be lopsided. However, without a picture showing that, I can't tell for sure.

 

Oh, duh...obvious point...did you check the centerlink? Though typically when they bend, the wheels toe in, but with the new TREs, it may be so far out of whack that it could do that...

 

Check the t-bars?

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I'd swear it was a UCA issue. that's quite a bit of neg camber. The tie rods won't do that. Looks like the UCA is not OEM and, if it were a replacement after the pothole, I'd say you got the wrong one. If it was there before the incedent, look real close at the mounts and see if anything looks bent compared to the other wheel. Also, take some measurements and see where things differ. It may isolate what is wrong.

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If your near my neck o the woods(lakewood) I'd look up chambers creek collision. these guys are easy on the pocket book for those not doing insurance work and they have a very powerful machine that can straighten bent frames and large body parts. If your frame is bent they can fix it if its something else they can prolly figure that out too.

 

They stragtened my rear door frame out for 300 bucks (could barely close the back hatch) and this is what happened to it.

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I would say either the UCA lost a shim (or 5) and is no longer in spec, or one of the BJs went bad.

he replaced bjs and hes not running any shims for alignment.(seems like he may even be against it)

Edited by MY1PATH
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That's an AC UCA. That's how they build them.

 

The upper ball joint looks suspect, as it looks as if the nut isn't tightened down properly.

 

Check your wheel bearings as well....it could be that it's gotten VERY loose. With the truck jacked up, and the wheel on, have someone push/pull on the top and bottom of the tire while you check for play.

 

Otherwise, check your tension rod on that side....possible that it snapped.

 

You wont' hurt the knuckle, especially not bending it. It's cast. You'll snap it before it bends.

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I can't no one will do it / I can't do it my self or I get fired ... plus they want to stick shims on it

whats wrong with stacking shims, thats what there meant to do, you stack them up until you get the right thickness, im running mulitple shims on both front and rear bolts and i have aftermarket UCA's if you are afraid of the shims falling out, use flat washers instead of the c shaped alignment shims

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might as well go 100% calmini then ; 90% of my rig's suspension is done with calmini .

I was delaying getting this but http://www.purenissan.com/control_arms.htm has what I need

 

Though I'm kind of having mind farts ... My R/F is done the same way as the L/f and it has no

problems what so ever , My L/F is give me hell ... wait ....... ah

 

what if I lower my T-bars so the rigs is at a 45 degree angle , so the front end is at a nose

dive XD would look like a rat rod .

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could it be the rod that goes through the upper control arm that bolts to the frame? Where you put the shims to align it correctly? On my white wd that I just bought wrecked, the WHEEL fell off and when the lower ball joint hit the ground it bent the knuckle and the that rod that goes through the upper control arm. So I myself am looking for a new kunckle as well.

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might as well go 100% calmini then ; 90% of my rig's suspension is done with calmini .

I was delaying getting this but http://www.purenissan.com/control_arms.htm has what I need

 

Though I'm kind of having mind farts ... My R/F is done the same way as the L/f and it has no

problems what so ever , My L/F is give me hell ... wait ....... ah

 

what if I lower my T-bars so the rigs is at a 45 degree angle , so the front end is at a nose

dive XD would look like a rat rod .

should have saved your money and put a solid axle under that thing.... you could build a damn baja truck for the outrageous amounts you guys dump into the IFS....

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