mws Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 As I finish up the front suspension rebuild on the '88, I am thinking about what to set the front camber angle at. With all the new bushings and UCA's installed, I ended up with what looked like at least 2 degrees positive camber, which is way too much in my book. And looked kinda funky as well. I pulled some of the aftermarket shims out to bring it down to just under 1 degree. The Chilton's manual said something like .3 to 1.5 degree positive camber is factory spec. And yes, I am taking it in for a full alignment, but adjusting the camber and caster is a bit of a pain, so "professionals" will very rarely play enough to get it "perfect". If it is even close to being within allowable limits, they won't touch it. So I'm doing it myself because, well, that's the way to know it is right! Has anybody played around and found what works best? I'm leaning (no pun intended....) towards setting it at the low end (about .5 degree positive) thinking that would give optimal handling and tread wear. But have you found otherwise? I have cranked the T-Bars a bit, but not extreme (in the interest of ride quality and CV joint longevity). Maybe an inch. The UCA's are Rough Country. Running 31x10.5" tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 For a starting place, I'd split the difference at .9 degrees then see how it feels and read the tires. Odds are it won't make a huge difference anyway, it ain't exactly a sports car... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 mws...I'm curious as to how you're doing these measurements, and especially, how you will be able to get the camber so precisely aligned......I've eyeballed the camber on mine, and once I replace my centerlink, it'll be going for a proper alignment, but if you can offer some insight on how to set the camber properly, it'd be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I've been doing driveway alignment for years now... Piece of string and a 6-pack of beers. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Please explain Luker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Please explain Luker First the beers... For the accuracy (actually the I HATE THE NISSAN IFS CRAP FACTOR!)... Then you take a nylon rope and wrap it around the truck such as it goes right in the middle of the tires. You then adjust the tie rods to make all the tires touch the rope in two spots and be EVEN. This is where booze comes in. EVEN is a variable directly proportional to the beer consumed. The reality is that Nissan IFS is so crappy that unless you drove right outta the factory or had every component of the front end replaced, home alignment is just as good as a pro shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Okay....so that takes care of caster.........how about camber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filthy Luker Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Okay....so that takes care of caster.........how about camber? 12mm thread washers... eye-ball that sucker and yer good. Like I said. Unless you just drove out of the factory or had every component replaced it all depends on how you parked the junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Wouldn't that be toe in, using the rope trick FL ?? For camber, a piece of flat stock, some blocks and a level with known graduations will get you there. Plumb bob, ruler and trig is another... Castor I have never messed with. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I think we need to revive the alignment explanation thread again... I am thinking people are a little confused here But then what the Toe, Camber and Caster terms apply too is more than likely "a variable directly proportional to the beer consumed" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Camber is the inward or outward lean of the wheel when viewed from way out in front of the truck. / \ is negative camber (the tops of the tires lean in) \ / is positive camber. I measure it using a flat concrete slab (the floor in our loading dock area), a carpenters square, ruler, and a little trigonometry. I set the carpenters square on the concrete and then measure the distance to the bottom edge of the wheel and the top edge of the wheel. Calculate the difference, that is "O". Measure the distance between the 2 points of measurement, that is "A". The camber angle = tan(-1)(O/A) If you measure carefully and the surface is pretty darned flat, you can measure to within a couple tenths of a degree. Which is good enough for me on a 4x4 DD. I set it, then take into an alignment shop and they measure it with their equipment. I'm usually within .2 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I've been eyeballing it. It changes every time I put it in 4WD anyway. Sometimes I have to redo toe in parking lots. PITA but better than paying $45 a pop and then having it be out of whack again within a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Didn't some one, I want to say Mr Pickles, say that they bought an alignment for life pacjage from Firestone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Yup, I remember someone saying that.... Lucky guy. The people I trust to touch my truck are much too wise too offer a lifetime alignment warranty on a 4x4! They will check it for free and make fine tune adjustments to make it perfect for a while, but if I have obviously hammered on it, they will charge me for fixing it. Seems rather fair to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 MM, you’re right it is Mr. Pickles who has the lifetime alignment job. iirc he told me that it cost around $100 when he had it done... I want to say that was several years ago. A quick call to Firestone gave me the price ($150) but it is currently on special for $120... Which, they seem to run that price often. I asked they guy about his experience with Pathfinders and he assured me that his shop (Sleater-Kinney Rd in Lacey, WA) has done many of them and does know about them being a bit more difficult to get "right" He also said that he has one on the rack right now and had one scheduled later this week as well. The Lifetime applies to all passenger and light trucks and 4x4's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 I can go use a machine and do my own free anytime I want, so I never had to bother with a string. Used my calibrated eyeball to help with a trail alignment on an X once, about as close as I have come to a driveway alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder Phil Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 I can go use a machine and do my own free anytime I want, so I never had to bother with a string. Used my calibrated eyeball to help with a trail alignment on an X once, about as close as I have come to a driveway alignment. I remember that.....heheheheee Truck has been sold since. He was going to buy our steering, but sold the truck before he did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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