k9sar

change your own oil and ignore the rest. Cracked manifold? really? probably just the heat shield. I'd say the mechanic is bull@!*%ting you

Fram is barely a step above a soda can stuffed with old socks

I got about 11 mpg pulling a boat through the poconos groan

it's inside the latch. look for a black rubber piece and use the search buttin on the forums for a variety of solutions

sounds like you got lucky and the bastards weren't able to start it with a screwdriver. could have been MUCH worse

90+ degrees 90+ % humidity bumper to bumper traffic moving at about 2mph damned right I use the AC!

is there a button for that?

pull as hard as you want cause the force is directly down onto the rack. If you have a pivot point on the room and pull on the end, you now introduce torque. plus... if your tie-down points across the body are against the gunwales (most people can't spell this), there is no side slippage at all.

ask Slick. It was hers

I have been whitewater canoing and kayaking for many years. The front and back lines are never used to secure the boat to the roof. Pull those suckers tight and you'll fold your boat. Now, if you have one of those heavy duty 8000 pound canoes, I don't think it'll be a problem. Whitewater canoes are light enough and flex enough to have issues. anyway... where I was going with this... We mounted cross beams on the roof rack (one at the front of the roof, one at the tail) with the ropes attached in the center of each crossmember. You center your boat on the crossmembers and push it up against the rope mounts (now it's nice and balanced and straight). Bring your tie-down ropes over the canoe and loop under the crossmember right next to the canoe. Throw a tie-down loop in the rope and pass the loose end through it and pull it down TIGHT. Couple loops around the crossmember and half-hitch it. It's not going anywhere. Now... for security in case your ropes break or your rack comes loose, drop the rear painter to the trailer hitch or other tiedown spot. Take the front painter to the front of the vehicle and tie it off onto the nifty little mount loop that I'lld escribe next. Neither of these ropes should be heavily loaded, just taunt. Front tie-down... Get a 6" length of braided nylon strap (or parachute strap) that is thin and about an inch wide. Open your hood and locate a fender bolt near the front of the fender. Remove it and pass the bolt through a washer, the strap ends and bolt it back into the fender. There should easily be enough clearance for the strap. When you need it, pass the strap loop between the fender and the hood and use it to tie to. When not needed, it can hide under the hood.

ummm... am I missing something? what's different in the pics besides the angle?

maybe the block drain plug not sealing well? did the people who worked on your system drain the block?

install a cryo-tank

maybe if you pull the bulb then check the draw on the fused side to see if it is draining through the bulb or if there's a short somewhere.

nope... I laughed. Just pointing out that your mean. and not that that's a bad thing.

you're mean, Carri

PM sent to ya CD. enjoy

I've got the 95 hosted right now. I'll drop that one and put the 94 FSM when I get to work tomorrow or Tuesday. Can't host both cause my brother (who own our family site) is a cheapskate.

cool. I don't have winrar so I always offer the other option

Most applications use a 6-pin Jideco brand relay with a brown plastic housing. Jiden and Miyamoto brand relays may be found on some vehicles instead, but any of the three brands are interchangeable. They run anywhere from 17 to 30 bucks.

the EGI relay is also known as a Fuel Injection Relay

I've got a VG30E block if you want to take a trip to PA

try a search from long ago using the keyword "dirty". I think the thread was titled "FSM's, I wanna get dirty" or something like that. if you need pdf's rather than winrar files, let me know.

now THAT was just mean.