Slick

sssh we had our opinions last night lol. ben.. find out WHY that motor was removed, and if he can guarantee you that motor is ok. then. and ONLY then do you buy it. is this a guy you can trust? why did you get a gasket set for a 94? isn't yours a 92? tho they should be the same....

yup. he's right. i have 1 pathy with just the JGCC install on 31's. and then the big guy who has 4 + 3 on 33's..... tho i broke the rear sway bar a few weeks ago, he still drives nicely but i just can't drive him around corners like i do mini me.... but he's good.

as above. it may take me a while to get to 65. but damnit, i can pull yer house down. all i've done are headers, cat, muffler, o2 sensor. and had my pipes straightened out as much as possible while they were installing the cat and muffler.

:o how much did you pay for your gasket set? i got a COMPLETE (by ITM) OEM gasket set for my 92 from parts dinasaur for $83, and got it in 3 days. great peeps to deal with.... will be getting my pistons from him. they're based in arizona. are we good with the motor thing now? even tho my new motor was a VG30i, i had never seen anything quite like that, so red was my "go-to" man. glad that's all sorted (thanks red!) just drop the diff x member, disconnect the cv at the diff on that side (pass side), and the y pipes...bolts are pretty basic. if oyu break one. worry about it later. PB blaster is your friend on this job... believe me! :bow: oodles n oodles of PB on EVERYTHING you plan on touching with a wrench.

welp, i will be finally upgrading the part of my exhaust that houses the o2 (to match the rest of my system) in the next couple months, you're more than welcome to it if you want. you'll definitely fail with no o2 sensor.

:bow: amen to that! not a difficult job. :contract:

a pre-smog is just to determine if it will pass or not. it is purely optional.... if you are not sure if it will pass, a pre-smog is recommended to find out if, or what it will fail on. then you can go home and work on that failure. if oyu fail 2 REAL smog tests, your pathy will be classed as a "gross polluter". this is not good as you then have much more work to do and stricter places you can take for the re-test. my s-10 came up a gross polluter as the cat was SHOT. i should've know. a gross polluter is when yer vehicle fails by way more than teh highest recommended levels allowed.... if i can barely fail with a blown HG..... then your pathy would have to have something seriously wrong with it to fail and be a gross polluter.

sssh hm. i thought it was 31 after 96..... guess it's 99.5 n up that have 31.......

indeed, aaron is right. however, make sure you get hubs for 27 spline hubs...... 87-89 are 27 spline, 90-95 are 28 spline and 96+ are 31 spline. superwinch don't make for the 28 spline pathys but warn do.

pictures sent.

i believe someone said a/c sell the split boots fer like $20 a pair, i know my local kragens can get them for me.... they cost about $5-10 more but are uber easier to install....... sly and yes, FINDING them is a challenge..... hehe

on 90-95 pathys there are only 2 or 3 bolts that hold it on each side (don't make me go outside n look damnit!).... only 1 HOLE has to be drilled. yes, the hitch is easily installed, just have PATIENCE with the stupid threaded plate with the wire.... it can be a PITA. remember to torque bolts to 75ft lbs

first off, it sounds more like a shot head gasket. if it's the upper radiator bypass hose as red said, i have changed one, and yes, they are a PITA. cheap part. lots of lost skin on knuckles. as above, poke the read frame with a screwdriver. that's their notorious spot for rust. i'd offer $800.... and not a penny more. i paid $1k in california for my 91 (on the right in my sig) 5 months ago..... as is.

as far as the years. they would test yours for 90-95, and if oyu went from the TB to MPFi they may snort a bit but hey... or they won't know wtf they are looking at. your pathy would be fine, adn after being resident full time in cali for 6 months you HAVE to reg yer vehicle, and yerself here. and, then, abide by cali laws. they are not state owned, but they do have a higher standard and NO CHEATING. their machines are directly linked to the dmv, so if oyu fail. BINGO. sacramento gets it. you are allowed to fail 2 times. then you go gross polluter. a "pre-smog" test is always advised. it's $30 and will tell you what, if anything your vehicle will fail on. it is "on the machine, but off the record"..... if it passes a pre smog, then BAM. get'er done right there........ why risk it? at a smog test only station you will not get away with reprogramming ecu's or any funky stuff.. they LOOK for it here... they know with a smog only vehicle they will try anything to pass.. and they look for that stuff.

how often do you have to have inspections? her in the land of money grabbers.... we have what we call "smog tests" where they kindly put a probe up the butt of oyur pathy. and jump inside and get her to different rpm's/speeds while she rolls on some roller thingies. i can send oyu a copy of my emissions and what they test for.... that may help. the main thing is exhaust, and cat. if you have a bad either... you'll fail. also, a good o2 sensor. a good running motor, with none to very few afteramrket doodads n gadgets. )cams/open air intakes/etc) after the thorleys and a new HG. my pathy barely registered on ANY of the tests lol... and pathy's out here are SMOG TEST ONLY. which means you have to take it to a smog only station, and they're bigger a-holes than average, and no sneaking around paying peeps under the table to pass yer pathy. they don't check the body, they do check any aftermarket stuff, like my thorleys for the eco # or whatever it is (to show it's cali friendly).... they do a thorough check under the hood to make sure yer not pullin a fast one..... other than that..... it's a $50 PITA every 2 years.

lots of write ups done in the year specific forum for this.... from bs to tire size... check around been covered a lot.

exactly, they also probably didn't mark them before they took them out. there is a write up in the how to's on re-indexing t bars.

anything to help!

could also be your oil pressure switch coming loose, that is located at the bottom of the block near your oil filter also.

welp, never had the "pleasure" of installing one of our brake controllers, but they look pretty straightforward....... instructions on the back of the box too..... but i think that's BS . if that trailer only weighs 1400lbs.. he should not tell you what you can and can not have ..... crap, i tow our 2600lb boat and no brake controller... he's trying to cost oyu a buttload of $$. cuz the controllers are anywhere from $60-$100

my thoughts exactly... if you are towing something that has trailer rbakes... it is prolly too heavy for a pathy. if it's a u haul trailer or something similar.... the hydraulic brakes without a break controller

3500 lbs as stated above. you can't get a hitch bigger than a class III (rated at 3500lbs). not that i've found anyhoo..... if you have an autotrgic tranny, get a tranny COOLER...... a BIG one...... really. as for wiring.. i work for u haul and install all the hitches n wiring. here's my pee easy write up on how to do it sly http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10354 as for the actual mounting of the hitch, no, there are no weld nuts or direct bolt on's..... there is 1 hole each side, you just have to drill 1 hole each side, then you have a flat metal bracket lookin dealio with a threaded hole in it and a longish wire attached to it.... which you use for one of the bolt holes (rear most) then the nearest bolt hole is easily reached by hand. 4 bolts total and yer on. easy.....

sheeeeeeet.... you live in the land of pathy owners.. why don't you butter up to some of the WA members (like *coughs*casey T) and offer to give them $200 to do it and show YOU how to do it? sly

i have the TM lift, and the t bars are nice n beefy, for mini me i am going with the sway-a-ways.... or any after market/stiffer t bars i can get at a reasonable cost.... :contract:

if only the "original" key was ever used, as mine was when i got my pathy, one key (the less worn key) will feel stiffer in the locks.... because the other key was used continuously, it wore down more. my original key is now my spare, as it is slightly bent and i don't want it to break, but it will take care of me in a pinch. either have the new key you had made ground down a bit more (take the pathy to the locksmiths) and try the key each time.. until it works.