Precise1

Nothing personal Bud, but you really need to download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and spend a little time looking at the diagrams, exploded views and descriptions. While questions are welcome, doing some homework first is encouraged and you'd be surprised at all the other things you'll learn that you run across doing that. B

Old air cooled VWs have them, to name one... B

Well, that makes sense now... Well, to be fair, he is in rural Oregon so he's probably never even seen a Frenchy... B

I'm guessing they probably are. They will be quite hard and inflexible, you should be able to tell right away. B

That is pretty much the point of this place. Glad it is helping you out... B

Absolutely! B

LOF? Grease monkey speak? B

Interesting... So they changed the basic configuration depending on the model it goes in... B

Ahh... Must have moved it for the supercharger... B

Good to know, we've been talking about upgrading the R50, or deleting it all together and getting a Leaf. If K could make up her mind and keep it for more than 4 minutes, that would help too... What motor is in it? B

Poly should last longer, but will transmit more vibration/impact than rubber. How much more? Hard to say... Personally, I consider these bushings to be a service item. 30k miles in salt zones, 50-60k miles anywhere else. Maybe overkill, but they trap a lot of crap and get a lot of abuse... B

No worries, it is a learning curve. Again, many people use the site without it as well. What ever works for you (and us)... CVs won't be turning unless you are in 4wd with a WD21. R50s have drive flanges, so the CVs are always spinning unless you install manual hubs (#1 recommended upgreyedd) B

Crapatalk is not your friend... I'd replace both at the same time. It isn't an expensive part, and you will have both sides equal. Fairly important when it comes to front end/steering components... B

True, but that is what people get for owning a Subaru... I just did an R50 oil change last weekend, and while the filter position is better, the location isn't, and it still dribbles oil as soon as you unscrew it. It just doesn't dribble it on your starter... B

x2 on both. From what I understand, Crapatalk will post an error message making you think you need to click POST again, but in reality all it does is make the staff run around and delete duplicates. Please refresh before you re-click or use the browser. B

Yes, those are bushings. Specifically, completely worn out bushings. B

Nope, we all still run the stock units or just took them off and run without... Just kidding! Yes, it is as easy as it seems (unless they are rusted in place), just two bolts each. I like to work top down, so remove the old shock, bolt the new one on with the top mount first, but just snug. If you have gas charged shocks, they will have keepers on them; when you cut the keeper, it will start to extend. Try to guide the bottom on before it over extends, otherwise you'll have to compress it to mount the bottom. Not a tough job, you got this... B

Well, that was easy... http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/QX4/1997_QX4/ Look at TF It looks like the front sensor is in the diff on the drivers side, and there is a wait detection switch. There is a 2wd setting on the selector knob. Self diagnosis: the 4x4 warning lamp will indicate the malfunction by number of flickers (TF-22) Way to much stuff to repeat, but the good news is that the troubleshooting and diagnosis section seems quite well documented. The first thing I would do is to jack up the front of the vehicle and spin the front wheels to see if the CVs spin, testing if the hubs are free or locked. From there I would do the diagnosis steps... B

As a purely speculative exercise: 2wd would mean only rear wheel drive, don't even think about it. Auto would mean think about if we need 2wd and 4wd. That indicates a brain which needs input, so sensors. Since the R50 comes stock with drive flanges, the CVs are always spinning; installing manual hubs and unlocking negates that. I'm assuming that the sensors are in the CVs/differentials (if they were at the wheels, none of this would matter). The only way the Auto function could work is by reading a certain mount of differential wheel spin, perhaps for a certain amount of time or percentage, when it then shifts the transfer case and engages the front drive train. If my model is correct driving down the road in Auto with the manual hubs unlocked would confuse the hell out of the computer, especially when it engages the front drive train and the differential wheel spin is still 0:whatever ratio. Could you post a picture of this configuration? I don't think I've heard of a knob and a lever system. It could be that with only Auto or Lock available, manual hubs are pointless/detrimental, and I'm beginning to suspect that the 4x4 light flashing is signaling a system error or fault code. I'm going to try to dig up a Q FSM, I'm curious now... B

Yes, I believe you are correct. I do recall that the selector nob must be left in 2wd, not auto when you have manual hubs, unless you have them locked, which puts you back like haveing the drive flanges. Call me old fashioned, but just give me a shifter... B

Looks nice and clean. Good work! B

Ok, wait, just one more thought... replace the fuel filter (damn, you already did that) and then check the fuel pressure if nothing changed, could be clogged fuel system/flogged pump. Yeah, my first instinct is to make sure the timing/pulleys are right. Check the fuel first, 10x easier... B

Welcome, and congrats on your new Pathy. I would go to the Garage section and download the FSM from the link in the pinned thread, then I would start here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/ Make sure it has a new belt that is put on properly (also, sometimes the crank pulley key shears and the pulley rotates before it binds again) B

Scooting this over to the 1990-1995 section... B

B