Precise1

Holy crap! 88k miles in 25 years? That's like 3,500 miles a year! You really ought to get out more... B

^Exactly! Although I sacrificed some cylindrical plastic container instead of using a can. You are just using it as a guide to get it past the sharp lip (90*) on the crank. X2 on what Alkorahil said, in theory they should just slide on and off so there is either a burr or gunk holding it in place. B

Wow! A wing on a Pathy! What a douche! Sadly, no pictures, but about 15 years ago I went past a pathy going up a hill on the freeway and it was revving like crazy but only going the speed limit. Turns out the 14" rims that were sticking out 6" past the body with 50 series tires on it totally screwed up the gearing. It was both hideous and pathetic, and yes, a 4x4... B

I disagree, I want to know the max fluid temp since that is what degrades fluid and when that happens, your tranny life is compromised. The best world would be tranny inlet and outlet temps. You can also patch in a sensor block into the flex hose with very little trouble... B

How long did you use them? Any issues? Funny enough, I suspect with no pressure in them they would be better than the stock bump stops, being progressive with compression and all. Yes, exactly... We found the most time consuming thing was drilling the hole and deburring it. I recommend using the smallest drill possible and first a 3/8 or 1/2" drill bit, then stepping up. A rat tail file, flat file, cold chisel and champher bit will do a good job. You don't want any sharp edges... We ran the air line around the brake line over to the T at the other side, then up to the unibody, back and down to the plastic bumper lip. Regardless, not a hard install at all... B

I'll bet they do the job well enough. It took 2 hours in a home garage on a slab with a floor jack and jack stands with no power tools (other than drill). We were in no rush, he isn't a mechanic, it was his garage and there was much hunting for drill bits, sockets, etc. I told him next time he brings it over to my place... : A mechanic with knowledge, tools and a lift should take an hour unless there is rust or some issue. We didn't even remove the tires. B

Ok, before I forget, I helped a friend install these a few weeks ago. http://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/60742/ They can be bought from Amazon, Jegs and Summit Racing for about $80 and you get everything you need for installation, plumbed in either tandem or individually. Let me try to hit on installation key notes. *You need to unbolt the rear shocks (bottom only), unclip the brake flex line, jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on jack stands high enough that the axle can be in full droop and still be about 6" off of the ground. *We used spring compressors at this point, but we determined if you simply unbolt the sway bar, you should be able to articulate the rear axle enough to manually remove and install the springs. You would probably want to unbolt the sway bar first, before jacking, but I'm not sure. *Clock mark the coil springs, seats and isolators, then remove the coil springs. *Remove the bump stops (they are inside of the coil spring, and have a socket head cap screw dead center IIRC) *Drill a 3/4" hole in the center of the bottom cup. There is already a small hole to chase, so that makes it easier. You will want the hole this size due to the clamp you need to use and that the bags don't center perfectly. *Deburr the hole very well. Do not skimp on this step and do the underside as well as you can also. *Place one clamp on the hose, push the hose on the inlet barb of the air bag, slide the air bag into the coil spring, guide the air hose through the the drilled hole and replace the coil spring and air bag assembly. Do not forget to clock everything as marked. *Cut about 1' of air line off of the supplied roll, and follow the previous step for the remaining air bag. *Route the air lines as you see fit, there are plenty of things to guide it and tie off to with the cable ties. We ran the line from the passenger side over to the drivers side, T it there, then run it up to the plastic lip of the bumper right near the driver's corner. Drill a 1/4" hole in the plastic lip, fit the hose and clamp on the barbed end of the schrader valve, then thread through the hole and tighten in place with the lock washers and nuts, leaving about 1/2 inch protruding. It was a pretty clean install with the valve pointing straight down; out of the way and almost invisible but easily accessable. If you do T the lines to one valve, the brass T will not need clamps as it is a extremely tight fit. You will want to hear the air hose with boiling water or a heat gun to make it pliable enough to get it on the barbs. The system seems to be durable and effective, even being low pressure (35psi max) My friend has installed a trailer hitch and a motorcycle carrier that he uses for his dirt bike which is about 230lbs cantalevered out about 2 feet from the bumper. He fills them with 10-15 lbs with a bike pump in seconds and he swears he can't even tell there is anything on back, there is no sag, sway or bounce. The hard core wheelers/flex junkies won't want this set up, but if you fill your rig with a lot of butt, gear and/or tow, this is a really cheap, easy, effective and adjustable set up. Sorry, no pictures. Any questions? B

This is mainly talking about moving water as the vehicle can be swept away, running merrily along the whole time. If this is something that happens regularly, you should invest in a snorkel. You can make do by using the Aussie tarp trick. These guys explain things well, even if they don't get out of the creek quickly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvdQQmHdT9g Another trick is to have a telescoping rod that you can probe the bottom with when you can't see... B

Hang in there Bud! Sounds like you are making good progress... It took me most of a week to replace a clutch by myself, but I did clean/replace other things as well. It is a lot of work and back and forth as you noted, just do one step at a time and it'll be done soon. Slow and steady, no mistakes... B

The larger displacement with more HP and torque would have something to do with that, as well as the speed limit and realizing that people weren't using them like trucks. B

When ever possible, replace tires in sets. Even if front and back are different, side to side should be the same. Between the difference in tire pressure effect, load rating, actual size, etc you are asking for trouble. B

I like to use these wires. They are like factory fitment and very well made. I have yet to replace a set in any of my vehicles so I can't tell you how long they last, but it should be quite a long time... http://www.karlynsti.com/Folders/catalog.htm B

I would disconnect/drop the tranny first (it has to come out anyway) to give you room, access, visibility and because it is a heavy bastage. I wouldn't want to wiggle both of them around together. . That may or may not allow you to to pull the motor without pulling the front diff. I seem to recall removing the oil pan is a trick, as well as someone remving the radiator support and making it a breeze. I've only pulled a tranny, so no first hand knowledge about removing the motor... B I suspect the levels of experience, assistance and equipment (not to mention prefference) dictate the different methods of removal.

Here, I put this in your thread in the New Member section. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36667-bad-maf-harness-ground-nissan-official-fix/ Good idea putting your question where is will get more attention, but bad idea for the duplicate threads. Please don't do that, it can confuse the issue/answers. B

Yes, it clips in on the inside under some protruding tabs. The tool needs to be slim-jim thin to slip in between the glass and the piece, yet able to catch the bottom edge and pull it away from the door. I suppose you could remove the door panel and the glass and get to it from the inside... B

Sorry, just having some fun. The window mouldings are available through the dealership for a steep price, as was already said. Some parts may be available at the junk yard, but most that I have removed, I have destroyed. Just have to go and try, or find some universal fit stuff and make that work with some glue. I am working out a tool to properly remove the bottom piece from door windows, that is what I need the most. B

X23 on the VG33 swap. I haven't done it, my motor is too fresh and I have other things that need the attention, but I can paraphrase. The VG30 has 153hp & 182ft/lb torque, the VG33 has 170hp & 202ft/lb torque so that is an 11% gain stock. Swap in some VG30 cams (euro spec if possible), put on headers/ exhaust and maybe do a mild port/polish should net you another 10-15 hp (YMMV), so possibly another 10% gain, or aprox 30hp more. That is a pretty substantial gain for a simple swap and keeping all accessories/sensors/computer/etc. From what I have read, it is exactly the thing to wake these old Pathys up a little. *awaits the butt dynos* B

4x4parts.com Calmini Superlift Lots of good threads here detailing sources/pros/cons. B

Unfortunately, most of us have some rotten trim so we know exactly what he is talking about... B

You aren't from around here, are you? Polk and Bush is where you want to go... B

Not a 1/2 bad idea, so I'll put in my part... Not so much this as having a choice of a few manufacturers/styles that are built specifically for Pathfinders, WD21 and R50 as they are becoming more prevalent off road.Probably some rock sliders as well, I only know of one 'plug and play' option and that still requires a welder. An adapter to make a better design from another existing vehicle bolt in easily. I'm not sure what the gain would be unless you changed everything, you would still be limited by the existing geometry and CV angles. Better to leave it alone or SAS IMHO. Once you re-wire the headlights with decent wire and a relay and add a good bulb, I think it is all you can expect from a factory headlight. With the prevalence of auxiliary lighting from driving lights to HID and LED, just buy what you want and bolt it on. I like the old, stock glass lenses myself. The stupidest chore I have is to polish the plastic headlights on the wife's Matrix every year. A tranny cooler/filter/gauge kit (everything needed in one place) would probably be popular Seat mount adapters as well. Cheaper gear options, but then the Xterra 4.9s are good enough for most. I'll chime back in after I have thought about it... B

If you have a welder, just make your own bumper with a carrier built off of it. A post on one end is a suitable 'hinge', just have to figure out the latch part. Maybe that could come from junk yard doners. You could probably have a used factory rack shipped to you freight for about $100... B

Did you check with ARBUSA? This is what comes up for your year... http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Sahara-Bar-Nissan-Pathfinder-2000-02-3938020-P3347.aspx B

Yes, yes I do. Some of it anyway... Yep, that is exactly correct, and I am sure they do; that's what the whole site is about. While you obviously had the drive and ability, I Iike to think NPORA helped you back then as well... B

No airbags in the 95, 96 on up is a yes. LOL @ MUOB! I'll use a puller, thank you. I also use spring compressors and jacks as well... B