Precise1

It was getting dark so I couldn't see the alt ground, but I measured from Bat Gnd to the AC line bracket on the rad support and got 2 ohms, to sender body was .5 ohms, .7 to the top header tube and 1.6 to an idler arm bolt. It was even 2 ohms to my fairlead... Another strap or two might be a good idea. Good fix. I'll see what I have tomorrow. B

Yep, certainly not the best, but good enough and far better than nothing! That is one way of getting the ok for a winch, hand the wench a shovel... A winch (you have to have some where to mount it) and this kit will see you out of most situations you will realistically get into. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-Winch-Accessories/Recovery-Gear-Kit.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=124&t_pt=5155&t_pn=RUG15104.25 B

I hear that the Harbor Freight Badland winch is a good buy for the price, hopefully you won't need it too often to burn it out. Another budget winch is this one, the Smittybilt XRC8. I was able to get one for $250 when there was a sale... http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-Winch-Accessories/XRC8-8-000-lb-Winch.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pn=S%2fB97281 B

That one is easy to determine which is better, you know that. B

Another option is the Pro Comp brand. IIRC the ES1000 are 'stock replacements' and the ES3000 are upgrades. I have personally run the ES3000 and found them to be quite adequate, but just a hair stiff in the rear when unladen (as it should be IMO). They often have sales deals on them like $99 for 4, or at least they did. Here are some that I looked up for your year (verify of course). I'd say save up the $ while looking for a good deal to try to meet your price point. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/Shock-Absorbers.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&kw=pro%20comp%20shocks B

How many HP do you think you gained with that mod? It is illegal everywhere in the US as well, punishable by a fine and registration revocation until one is installed. So, lying is convenient? And witness the results. B

Ok, got it. I'd question that shop though, because you can't be 1/2 a tooth off... B

Cool, that is really good news! You shouldn't have needed to adjust the dizzy though, how much did you move it? Mechanic, or just buy/borrow a gauge. A compression gauge might be cheaper than a mechanic though, price one locally. It is easy, just pull the plugs, install gauge and crank the motor. Match that up to the values in the FSm and it will tel you a lot, and maybe what to do next. Sorry, but I thought it was said. I've seen a lot of TB threads, and more people have gotten lucky than I would have thought, but I still wouldn't call it good odds at all. Then there are the people who mangled their top end by idling in a parking lot or waiting until the next weekend to change the TB, and it snapping before then. You just can't tell, but I'm not a gambling man. Definitely do a drive test, checking power, RPM performance, engine heat, etc. If it was the same or better than before, I would still compression check it to see if there is a bad cylinder. It might tell you that you have an engine than will run for a little while, so better start looking. If it was mine, I would. X2 on the flooded and lottery ticket. B

Don't waste the time, energy or $ replacing those as long as they are not deformed or severely corroded. Every vehicle I have owned in the last 30 years had that style connector, and they were always more than sufficient. Are they the best? No. Do they work just fine? Yes... B

Yep, I would have gone to the saw directly after a wrench and channel locks woun't budge the top nut. Don't be afraid to cut off stubborn parts that are to be thrown away anyway. As for keeping the shock compressed, next time compress it with the weight of the truck and then tightly cinch the top and bottom in place with some decent cable ties. When you jack up the truck again, the shock will stay compressed and be easy to remove. Kingman already explained that the shocks do not really influence ride height. B

I meant you are comparing an R50 to a WD21. 68mph is road racing? I got pulled over doing 130mph once and just got a ticket for 90... Oddly enough, that equals 68.2mph... B

All of the above, the stock set up works pretty good. Now, if you put on smooth tube from the MAF to the plenum and ported the intake you should see some improvement, but the air filter will just make it louder. Remember, you are only pushing 3.0 liters of V6 power, a whopping 183ci... B

I'll be watching this with interest. Sorry, I can't help with the circuitry, I'm an idiot when it comes to electrons... Absolutely to the first part, I'm surprised you don't have one already considering all the other goodies you have. A second cooler might be a good idea rather than just a larger one. I know you can set up a T with a thermal switch to only use the second cooler when appropriate. Did you ever install the little air gauge? I can't recall... B

Not true, quite a few people have gotten lucky but more have had some damage. I would just replace the belt and do a compression check. If you have damage, I would put the other motor in as Kingman suggested and part out the rest, then fix the damaged motor and sell it. You could come out of the whole thing not costing you anything but time. To everyone else, learn this lesson the easy way. If you do not know if/when the TB has been changed on your vehicle, change it right away. It is not worth the gamble! B

KM x .62 B

The castle nuts on my tie rod ends (3) are 17mm. I do have one with a nylon lock nut that is larger, maybe 21mm. Maybe that is that Kingman is thinking of. B

No such thing as a 90-95 R50 Bud... As for the info... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25662-manual-hubyearspline-information/?hl=%2Bmile+%2Bmarker B

I'll check the size for you in a few hours when I'm outside and it isn't freezing. As for banging on the end, that can work but you can damage the thread if you aren't careful. A trick is to leave the nut on, flush with the end of the threads to protect them. Also, the joint may not be perfectly rigid and it might be hard to break the taper loose with it flexing every time you hit it. If you can borrow or buy a pickle fork It is the way to go, the wedge drives them apart nicely. I'll move this to the 1990-1995 WD21 section for better visibility. Welcome to NPORA BTW... B

You obviously can't go by your gas gauge since the sender sticks or whatever, nor should you. The only way to determine mileage is by the math. If you used 4-5 gallons to drive 32 miles, that would be 6.5-8mpg and that would mean you are leaving a trail of gas. Different animals. WD21s are geared lower due to less power and more wind resistance. Our R50 cruises 68mph @ 2,500rpm to get 18-20mpg depending on terrain. Our WD21, not so much... B

Must be the 8" rims as the stock are 6 and 7", but I wouldn't have thought that to be an issue. At least it is an easy fix... B

I won't guarentee 10% increase, but I will say they seem to make a difference on the highway and we experienced a 10% mileage increase when I installed them. Around town still sucks though... You might have gotten the mileage 'for free' but the wear items other than the front CVs don't care about that. What did you pay for the hubs and what does your gas cost on average? B

Try a can of brake cleaner... B

Yep, the hubs should make a difference on the freeway, we saw +2mpg to hit 20mpg. This is with 170k miles, but tuned up. Unfortunately, so many little things can affect the mileage that it becomes a percentage game. Tune up, tire size/tread/presure, fluids, brake drag, drive train bind, driving habits, etc. TheExBrit in 5 more years... B

Hey now, just proving it rather than more conflicting input, Pops... I did have so look in two places to cross reference, so I can see the frustration. B

What does the FSM say about it? Hint... Right bank=B1, left bank=B2 as per EC-178. Left hand manifold cover=drivers side-US version as per EM-9. US drivers side is bank 2. NGK seem to work fine, in a WD21 anyway but I can't see there being a huge difference. B