Precise1

I have to ask, how did one wheel only have 1/2 of it's lug nuts? Did someone other than you work on it? Do you torque your lug nuts or just tighten the crap out of them? I'm asking because you really don't want this to happen again. Losing a wheel while driving can be really bad news, for you and others! B

Got it! Be perfectly honest, I'm not sure I'd let anyone touch it that only wanted $20... I know, different economies, wage rates, etc. Couldn't hurt to have a 'professional' Nissan mechanic give it a look over, especially snce you plan to keep it. B

That should work. I prefer something that either evaporates quickly or is quite benign like WD-40. Last thing you want is something oily that leaves a residue and maybe even negatively aggects the rubber lines. Stay warm Bud! B

Glad you fount the issue. I highly recommend you look in the Garage/How To section for the timing belt change write-up that was made by a Nissan Mechanic. No harm in trying yourself, but it always helps to have good directions/advice. Any junkyards/pick and pulls in your area? That is where I would start.... B

Snow? It's supposed to be 90+ Tuesday, Wednesday and Thorsday I find the best way to find an intake leak, after a visual/manual inspection of course, is to test specific lines/areas with a flammable aerosol (WD-40, carb cleaner, etc). If your idle surges when you spray, you have found a leak... B

Anything with a lifetime warranty that has a store near by. Most of my stuff is Craftsman because bang for buck, it seems to be just fine and there is always a Sears nearby. I've only broken a few tools in my life, but it can be dangerous when they fail. Best to stay away from the cheap crap. The only exception to this is perhaps things like ratchets and gear wrenches, it might be worth investing in something quality that works smoothly and feels comfortable. Get a breaker bar assortment so you don't use the ratchet for that kind of work, get plenty of extensions, universals and attachments, standard and deep dish sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive and put them on bars in order so you don't lose them and you have a whole set at hand. I probably use a ratchet for 75% of things and my favorite is a Craftsman 1/2" drive patented in 1971 that someone was throwing out and i just cleaned and rebuilt. Often old tools are the best and just need some love. Always check out the bins at garage sales, etc. You never know what gems you can find... B

I bought a full set of Dewalt 18 volt hand tools (circ saw, impact driver, drill, sawz-all, angle grinder) 3 years ago when I bought a house, and I don't know how I lived without them for so long! I'm still using the same 2 batteries the kit came with and lithium ion batteries do not have a memory or degrade anything like the old batteries did. I plan on buying a 1/2 inch impact gun and would rather have that than a pneumatic one. http://www.sears.com/dewalt-tools-18-v-impact-wrench/p-00934310000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00934310000&kispla=00934310000P Well, if that is what you want to do, you will want that stuff eventually but I recommend just hand tools at first, and let the work you do pay for the additional equipment. I know, I started a machine shop that way... One tip, build an enclosure outside for the comprssor and just wire/plumb it from there. You'll thank me for it! B

I like the little kit/blow molded case for the pneumatic tools (keep everything in one place so things don't get lost), but it doesn't look like they will fit once you put the quick disconnect fittings on them (other than the rachet). That isn't good, you don't want to be constantly installing/removing them, that is a pointless waste of time. Almost all tools have a working pressure rating, CFM air consumption rate, RPM/BPM and torque amount. Some info on the air ratchet (the most useful item) but no info on the others. I'd want to know more... Same with the compressor. All things being equal that has sufficient HP and storage to drive air tools without issue, but they don't list the CFM of the compressor and that is what it is all about! In all honesty, I hardly ever work with air tools at home. By the time I pull out the compressor, fire it up, fill the tank, pull out the air tools, and get going, I could have already been done with a manual ratchet. Then there is the noise... I've worked in machine shops for 20 years and have grown to really dislike the sound of compressors. While air tools are handy for big projects and shops, I find I really don't need them for 95% of what I do, and I'll pull motors, trannies, etc. Hand tools first is my opinion. B

Glad it was a pretty simple fix. Time to go back to that first place and get some sort of refund... B

Damn it! I'm really sorry to hear this, and my condolences to his family and friends. I never got a chance to meet you Andrew, but I felt like I knew you regardless. You will be missed. RIP B Thank you for letting us know Enjoi408.

Ok, this section is for parts info not a discussion on who beats on their vehicle the hardest or is the most erratic driver. Everyone has had their say, so let it be now. B

If it is 'irreparable' (almost nothing is ) then have it towed home, dismantle it and sell it for parts and have the carcass hauled off for scrap. You aren't driving it, your are recycling it. No way I let someone say 'sorry, not safe, everything is ours now'. That is called thievery! I hope it doesn't come to that, but don't just roll over for it either... B

Make sure the airbag works, there is some sort of diagnostic with lights. You can download a FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage and look it up... 250K should not be a problem unless it was sorely neglected. I've worked on a 1996 with 256k that was beat to crap, poorly maintained, spark plugs had .09-.1" gap (.032 is correct) and it started and ran fine with no power issues or CEL. These engines are champs! Make sure to remove the oil filler cap and check the inside of it and what you can see through the hole for sludge or nasty discoloration. Clean and olden is good... (bring a flashlight) Before you drive it, remove the radiator cap to make sure the fluid is in good condition and doesn't look oily. What kind of warranty are they offering? I'd be skeptical if it was none... B

Looks pretty good and good price, but a little higher in mileage than I would prefer. Interior is identical to our 1999.0 SE; pretty comfortable and drives really well. No on all 3! It has heat/AC with vents to the rear, 4x4 shifter, not traction control (unless they mean rear axle LSD which I think the LE's mainly didn't have) but a 4x4 shifter and I do not see a tow hitch. They forgot to mention it has heated seats (two small switches in the bottom of the console), should have a 12v jack in the back of the center console, a hidden 'glasses' compartment in the map light/temp/compass console and make sure to turn on the rear defroster for a bit and touch the side view mirrors to see if they are heated. TEST EVERYTHING! Check the tranny fluid condition and pay good attention to how it shifts, make sure it warms up and try every gear and 4x4 (on a dirt road). If all checks out, go home and run the VIN on CarFax or whatever. It won't always tell you everything but it could tell you enough. Cheap insurance... Then go back and buy it once you slept on it. FYI, we bought a 1999.0 SE in NorCal 4 years ago with 150k miles, needing tires but in 95% condition for $4k from a private party and I thought we got a spanking deal. Good luck Bud! B

He will, eventually. My D720 had no such ignition override and no matter how careful I was, I lurched it with the starter several times a year. Never hit anything, but still... A great way to move a non-running vehicle a short distance though. B

^ Good info. Also, I recommend using a mechanic's stethescope to pinpoint the the source of the sound, they are very cheap but useful. B

X3 on the belt tension/tensioner. Unless you went way over board, it shouldn't be a big deal. How did you set the tension? As for the puff of smoke, that is odd. It was right away so nothing had a chance to warm up? That means something electrical or maybe some coolant somewhere was atomized by the fan or a belt? Can't hurt to check your fuses to see if any are blown. B

Having fully loaded freeway hill climb issues is mainly a power issue, so trying to increase the output or change the gearing are really the two only options. Simply put though, these vehicle only made about 150hp brand new and the National Maximum Speed Limit was set to 55mph almost everywhere (1974-1995), so turning off the OD was acceptable. Most people don't remember that law and that the Pathy was only designed for that maximum speed. The PCV valve is a maintenance item but can be tested for proper operation, but I wouldn't just randomly change the O2 and MAF without first testing their outputs first. If they function in the proper ranges, replacing them will just be pissing away a couple hundred dollars without any improvements. Save the $ for headers, exhaust work, and other things that will make a power difference. Yes, as long as it doesn't interfere with passing smog tests, different cams and ECU tune will gain you more power. Another trick, be it more work, is to install a VG33. A VG33 with cams, headers and exhaust should make up to 190hp (estimated), 20% gain from what you have now... B

^This! Go to a junk yard or dealership for the hose... You only have one cat (unless you have the oddball precat, but this doesn't matter) and the inlet is something like 1.875"/outlet 2.1875". IIRC, the largest allowable cat in Ca is 2" and remember that the cat has to be CARB certified for California. B

Well, the good news is that most parts should be a lot cheaper here, other than perhaps engine components. I suspect Alkorahil (member here that runs an online dealership parts department) would probably be able to source diesel parts for you. What I had mentioned is just an adjustment and usually $50 for bushings. Not that I recomment you do unnecessary work to the vehicle, but just get it into the shape you want. You'll find a lot of parts available int he junk yards and from members selling things as well. To give you an idea of what is possible, This is my latest Pathfinder when I first bought it, completely stock... And this is it about a year ago... I'm still have some work to do (roof rack, rock sliders, rear bumper and interior modifications) but that is basically how it will be. Some people go a lot farther with tires, solid axles, etc but that is not for me... Look around in the Member's Rides section at the bottom of the main page to get some ideas. Stock, mild or wild, it is up to you. B

It is that unconditional, absolute statement right there that indicates you are only talking about tight trails and technical obstacles. Maybe you do a lot of that, but I question if you have ever been in the dunes, marshes or desert where you need speeds and gearing over 25mph, hence the limited experience part. All sorts of 'off road' out there that needs 4 wheel drive and where 4low wouldn't work well... B

That is a great story! Thanks for sharing the pictures as well, it really ties it all together! I know you put a lot of time and effort into transporting it, but I dare say it was worth it. You now have an extremely rare vehicle in the US, a LHD Terrano TD. Congratulations! Now, it looks like your torsion bars for the front suspension have sagged a bit, and odds are the compression rod bushings need to be changed as well... B

LOL This 1/2 the reason, to get rid of the stickers, but also to blend it and get rid of some scratches. I'm debating clear coating it, but we'll see... B

You will be able to pass smog. I have Thorley headers, Magnaflow cat and Flowmaster muffler. It does get a bit loud at high RPM, but I don't drive around at 3-4k rpm much. A couple notes, I doubt you will get 8-12% power gain from the cat back alone, and they don't seem to list the diameter. Also, do you plan to use the stock cat? It chokes down to a narrow inlet/outlet... Don't worry about intake yet, the stock system does fine with minor modification. B

Looks good! I'm going to have mine sandblasted before I mount them... B