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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. If it is a full sized floor jack it will work just fine, I've done it many times myself. If it is one of the small floor jacks, it might be tricky with the tiny wheels/wheel base. It is worth a try regardless because you only have to lift that one wheel 1/2" off the ground using either the axle on one side or under the lower control arm (if it is the front) and it won't really hurt anything if it hops off. Just don't have anyone in the garage with the vehicle (unless they are inside it) when you are doing this! Another trick I've seen riggers use when there were clearance issues and a smooth floor was to put the machine on heavy cardboard, spray WD-40 underneath and along the path, then push! If you have rough concrete, try using 2 pieces of cardboardand spraying the WD-40 inbetween them. Try to find smooth cardboard (colored/gogos/info) and it should work fine. The other thing that would be handy is a come-a-long to drag it out with nice and slow, controled and without effort. B
  2. I don't know of any test you can do without a drivable car on the ground. Inspect for leaks or damage/wear and buy/try. A little bit of a gamble, but so is life... I will point out this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38519-spring-dimensions/ And deal with the double post. B
  3. Sounds like it is a good thing he didn't make it off the lot! I also hope he didn't get another one... B
  4. Ahh, they had that law here as well, and I bought a 1978 VW thinking I would only have to smog it once, then they froze the cut off date to 1975 or earlier so I'm screwed. Hope it works out for you... B
  5. One trick is to find an area where you can drive along next to a solid fence or wall with the windown down. The sound will be reflected allowing you to hear it much better, possibly locating the bacis area it comes from, and you can also play with throttle, brake, etc to see what makes it better or worse. Having a friend in the back seat would help as well. Do a visual check that there is nothing wrapped or bound at the wheel, rotors, driveline, etc. From my experience, whine under load will be gears, so tranny/driveline/rear end. B
  6. No emissions testing in Seattle? B
  7. I've seen fuses get corrosion on their contacts and not conduct. I recommend you take a few minutes to pull the fuses and look to make sure they are clean. Hint: Do it one at a time... B
  8. Try banging on the lug nuts with a metal BFH. "Ringing" it will often make things break free. That is after you quickly jack up the wheels to see. I've seen this happen to several vehicles, so it is nothing unusual, especially in rust states I would imagine... B
  9. Correct, please, also if it is flat ended or not... B
  10. Would anyone who removes their springs, be them front or rear, stock or aftermarket, please take measurements of the ID, OD, OAL and note if it is flat ended or not and what year it came off of. Coil thickness and number of coils would be nice as well, but not necessary. If it is aftermarket, please state from whom and how much lift it gave/ride change. What I am trying to do is match up existing springs with what is available from Sway Away to see if we have another option available, perhaps even something outside what is already available. Check out the link if you are curious... http://www.swayaway.com/CoilSprings.php I'll leave this pinned for a bit until we collect some information. Thanks in advance... B
  11. Good point, the Hardbody T-bars are very close in length to a Pathy's. I had to go check, and Sway Away says that the 4wd Hardbody T-bars are 1" shorter... B
  12. Sorry, I've not seen these units before but if I recall, Gabriel is a midline brand and not mixed, rebuilt crap. Anyone else know this brand better? I'll be curious as well, I hate dealing with struts... B
  13. Oh, no! I'm pretty sure I know this one as it happened to me. P0301 is Cylinder #1 misfire, and mine only did it once warm, then shut off, and then restarted. The #1 injector was failing only when hot. Check the resistance of the two wiring contacts of the injector when it is cold, it should be 10-14 ohms IIRC, then warm it up, shut it off and check it again. I bought a set of used injectors and some new O-rings and just replaced the one, been running great ever since. I can't say that is your issue 100%, but I'd bet on it and start there for sure! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27522-p0301-cylinder-1-misfire/?hl=p0301 Injectors are color coded, what color is yours? (I have spares) I'd request a detailed, written itemization as to what the mechanic has done to diagnose the P0301 code at this point... B
  14. That is good! That is bad! Made my skin crawl! You might want to use one of those second skin products for something like that. One of those plate compactors? I used one recently, but with better results... The older I get, the less likely I am to do anything without gloves. You get tired of waiting to heal. I wonder if beer wasn't part of the problem? I hope you heal quickly... B
  15. LOL You sure the races didn't get brinelled? B
  16. I'd start checking the connectors (all of them) and the dizzy cap as well. Blow the connectors out with compressed air until dry and give the dizzy cap a shop of WD-40. Did the ECU get wet? B
  17. I charged up the battery in the WD21 since it sits in the driveway with the alarm on. Went from 11.7 to 12.6 volts, all is well... B
  18. Damn! Glad you have a sense of humor about it! You might want to make sure the ECU under the seat is dry, and check the connector to it as well, so it isn't holding water and shorts anything. Good luck Bud! B
  19. Just pull the plugs before you crank it... Vados, Vatos, the difference one letter makes... B
  20. Oh, I recall what it looked like at first, and the evolution. Still, a job well done... I think they are more aired down, note the slight sidewall bulge at the bottom? Either that, or TheexBrit has the swamp cooler, trampoline and kitchen sink along for the ride... B
  21. Yes, hopefully it died due to electrical short, but only one way to tell... I assume the air box was submerged? What I would do is pull all the spark plugs, crank it over and see if any water comes out of the holes/tail pipe, then do a compression check, and lastly, reinstalling the plugs and seeing if it starts/runs. Some people have gulped a lot of water cranked it through without obvious harm, others have done a lot of damage with perhaps a cup of water. Gonna have to find out... Good luck though! Hey, being in the desert, don't you know to watch out for vados when it rains? B
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