Precise1

I completely agree with 88, and in addition, it could be a clutch issue. How many miles on it ? The other thing that comes to mind since you mention 'putting a load on it' is the input shaft (bearing?) for the tranny. There is a TSB pinned in the garage section under tech section at the top of the first page. It seems that the stock recommended level of tranny fluid is not always sufficient and 'overfilling' is recommended. How old is the tranny fluid/have you ever changed it ? GL-4 is what is specified, dont let anyone tell you otherwise. Get on this right away as fixing it before it breaks is much cheaper than after. A fluid change cant hurt, and you may get many more miles out of it, but it's very hard to tell on the web. When I buy a wheeler, the first thing I do is change all the fluids to set up a maintanance schedule; I know thats not helpful now, but in the future... Keep updating and we'll get it figured out. B

Ouch Bud ! Been under the knife a few times myself but never for the back. Had a few friends who have though, and it didn't seem like much fun at all. Heal up well, and like you said, 'Take it easy' !! Nothing wrong with that... Now you got me nervous, been crashing, um, I mean riding for 25 years and wondering if I'll be hit with any outstanding dues.... B

Right on Rami !!! Good to hear from ya again.... My, my, my, you've become quite the wheelin' monster, haven't you ? You got some great shots there, I really like the 'parked on a chevy celebrity or something' one. Thanks for posting them, and don't be such a stranger !! B

Hey Illegal ( I wont ask) !! The 4x4 shifter knob should just unscrew counter clockwise... But maybe like my tranny knob, some idiot put it on with epoxy. If thats the case, it wont come off without a torch, or liqued Nitrogen, or a hacksaw... Have you really tried just twisting it ? B

Damn Bud, I'm jealous !! You better get it all together and have a dyno test; maybe we collect for it ? You REALLY should do the port & polish if you can since you have done all other stuff... It will only do good. If you are not driving it, what is the stumbling block ?? B

Um, yeah.... Imperial is brittish, Standard is amurrican.... It equals the same in linear distances but differs in other categories.... Trust me, it's my job to know the nuances, and they are lame ! If only we all used metric... It SO makes sense... Just adjust your eyeballs people ! I'm so sick of this Kings foot BS !!! B

I had no probs with your second link (in the first post) and instructions.... As for link trouble shooting, well, I'm lame at it. For me it either works or it doesn't, but yours did... B

Bah, we are all friends here wheelman ! No harm done and my comment was more tongue in cheek than anything else. (Besides, she said she didn't really understand what it meant... ) With circa 1500 members, it would be imposible to use humor, idioms, or sayings without stepping on SOMEONE's toes.... I find it almost impossible to post without teasing or razzing a bit, but then thats a personal problem... As has been described many times, ONE of the things that makes this such a great forum is that there are few 'attacks', things are taken with a grain of salt (any salt miners out there ?) and good humor prevails, Eh ? Thats one of the main reasons I come here regularly, and accepted some responsibility to keep it that way. If that sounds sappy, well, you can kiss my @$$. I'll make no excuses or apologies for it. As for you Slick, well, I dont believe I was privy to that information before, but I certainly didn't mean to exclude you. Welcome to the red headed stepchild club !! I suspect that if someone really pissed you off, you'd hunt them down and punt them into next week... Maybe then get weepy about it...? Now, back to our previous program: Hard wheelin' Pathys.... B

Hey Bud, check out this recent thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5237 That should give you some ideas. I personally suggest the POR15 as some labor and $30 will make it tough and sweet, but it comes down to what YOU want. Be sure to chime back in and tell us what you did and how it turned out (pict are nice...) !! GL B

Picts please patzx300, nudge nudge, wink wink... We all appreciate you sharing ! B

Sweet deal frankle1 !! Thats what I payed for my 95XE with 108K, and I was ok with that !! B

Still stuck on the swimsuit issue of the NPORA calendar, aren't you 88 ?? B

I do... B

Good follow through DJD !! Personally, I think it is just fine the way you have suggested; clean, simple, and still looks nice. Count me in for a couple. Well done ! B

Pleased to hear from you Ali. Rest assured that we will all support him in his addiction, um, I mean hobby !! As for advice, he gives it as much as he gets it and is a great member of the forum. All that aside, he's also just a plain old nice guy; this I know first hand. Best wishes and be well... B

As before Bud, be well and keep in touch... B

Hmm, link no worky for me.... As Slick said, it's not an option for all... Nice to know that if you were redoing a WD21 motor you could cam, port and polish, headers, good exhaust w/hi flow cat, hotter ignition and cold air intake it and easily wind up with 200+ HP. Thats plenty in my book, even with bigger tires. Then there is the ECU mod for some extra whammy and you could happily get 10 MPG !!! B Thanks for the second link Trailchaser ! Hmm, 4 MPG increase huh ? Interesting and tempting, but still not possible for me.

Sorry Bud, never had any need to pull the panel and I'm not inclined to do it for no reason... Seriously though, anyone have a photo or exploded view so he can see if all the parts are there ? B

Shet, you can have the GF, I'll take a garage !! JK !! The GF works and goes to school (while I :type: -alcohol- ) so she usually only comes over on the weekends and then I'm busy with other things... Even though she doesn't know which end of the screwdriver to hold she has helped me bleed brakes, etc before.... But then between cooking, working on her car, bike, computer,etc it's still a net loss. Oh well B

I have a definite creak in my clutch (but no pop!) and I just replaced all innards 9 months/4000 miles ago. At first, I thought it might be the slave cyl when it pushes on the bearing fork arm, but the sound seems to be comming from more wheel wellish direction. Doesn't seem to be affecting anything though Unfortunately, I rarely have anyone around to help me so I haven't gotten anywhere with it. You should see me bleed brakes by myself without any fancy bleeder units... The proverbial monkey and a football syndrome. LOL B

Sounds like you will have to look and see. Maybe you will get lucky and someone has had this exact prob, but I recommend you start by reading this http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3856 and then maybe using the search function. B

I assume he meant igintion rotor inside of the distributor cap. I misidentified a picture 88 posted of a custom plug boot that had a hole in it and was causing stuttering. Perhaps he read that or did the same... Regardless, he is suggesting the ignition system and using wd40 to remove any water and/or help conductivity. Check cap, rotor and all wires; I dont know if thats the issue but lgranch has experience. With manifold intake leaks WD40 will actually speed up rpm.... Sorry Bud, but you are being a bit unclear here. Slow down and explain a little better. Your indicated RPM surges but the wheels dont spin, as in loosing traction or no acceleration ? Is the motor surging in accordance with indicated RPM ? And the truck does not accelerate, or just not loose traction ? You use reverse, floor it, and the wheels just spin like crazy ? My MT would do that also. What do you mean ? Does the RPM surge in reverse also ? How about what reverse does when you just drive normally ? I don't know much about auto trannys, only owned 1 in my life, but if you give us a better discription of whats going on, I'm sure you will get good input. From what I have read and remember, surging with an auto is usually the TPS. But the fact you have no aftermarket tranny cooler is not a good thing as I know you have played hard with her. How does the tranny fluid smell, burnt ? Just give a comprehensive description... B

Ok, Earth1 and all others interested, this is what I learned after a few phone calls and key strokes. 1) The place that I got my Bug's polyurathane bushings from doesn't know what the lubricant is; it comes in unlabled 1 use packets from their bushing supplier. I requested they ask and they said they'd try. 2) The VERY knowledgeable and helpful rep I have dealt with several times said the closest stuff to that is high viscosity trailer chassis and/or bearing grease for marine applications. He says he has polyu bushings in all his vehicles, uses that and narry a squeak. After some research, it makes perfect sense. 3) Inherently ployu bushings can squeak (definitely if not lubed) but I contest 88 and mws that they always will; I have had good luck with them, and I HATE squeaks. Those of you who are using WD40, its a water displacer, perhaps light lubricant and rust prohibitor that will not last. I actually use it on bushings 1 at a time to chase down which one does squeak, not for any lasting protection. Silicone spray is about the same. This is what I found searching about. The key is to have a high viscosity, waterproof grease with good adherency and high film strength. What I used seemed like a tacky paste that was hard to spread, stuck to everything and wouldn't wipe off. This example seems to be right on the mark and quite cheap, although it might mean disassembly required unless you have zerks or are installing fresh. Regardless, it's probably worth buying a tub to have for when it is appropriate... http://www.hondapartsworld.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=4308 This one claims it is compatible with most rubbers and plasics, and comes in an optional aerosol which may mean you are able to apply it well enough without disassembly. If you back up and look at their entire selection, it seems like they have some nice waterproof bearing and chassis/drivetrain grease for those of you who submerge often. No, just 'cause it's grease doesn't mean its truely waterproof. http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/watrcrft.htm Word of advice, have everything ready and use gloves when applying stuff like this, I'm still trying to get the stuff I used off of a few wrenches and C clamps ! Did anyone actually install their polyu bushings with out lubricant ? Or did you just use moly or bearing grease ? Use at your own risk, but I'd try it if I was creaking around every corner. GL, and let me know what you think. B

Ease up Bud. A favorite saying of mine that I made up "Ignorance can be cured, Stupidity is the crime...". Keep asking questions, and you will soon be a master ! Besides, you are assuming I right... B

Take some measurements (guard mounts and truck mounts) and fab adapter brackets, it really is generally simple to do... B