Precise1

So the antibiotics didn't work ?? B

Ok, I can't tell you how hard that made me laugh !! Oh CRAP !! (damn near did !) So if you get a snorkel for that thing, does it go under the truck for a 'clean' look ? 10" of water and a new motor !! GEBUS !!! Although granted, I'm sure he was going was too fast... I once dunked my old (basically stock) 720 in a hole without checking. I guessing the water was 3' deep. Not only did it not drown, it swam to the other side and clawed its way out !! It was close though, scared the crap out of me. I always check holes now... I guess he doesn't get the hint that his mechanic drives a Pathy, eh ? Thanks MUCH for sharing that !! B

LMFAO !!! Sorry, I cant help you, but you did make me spray pieces of pickle on my monitor just now... B

I don't think he has it yet... B

If the load is large and shifts or you are not cautious and whack it, sure, you could break the hinges. There is very little height clearance from the top bow of the roofrack to the wind deflector. If you reconfigure the roofrack, I don't think you can lay anything on the roof and have it hang over the rear (like a bookshelf or 2x4's). I could be mistaken, but I don't think so. I have a rear wiper so I see no point in a 'spoiler' for me... B

Not to mention easily damaged when you have something on the roofrack... B

Well ticker, the real test is what the steering does when you you hit that pot hole in the middle lane with your right tire 3.7 miles out of Apoloosa headed west... Sorry, couldn't help it. Technically, it could just be alignment, but it probably includes things like bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, centerlink, idler arm, etc. Take it to a recommended shop and have them check it out. Unless you know the people, take any diagnosis from a large chain shop with a grain of salt as they will try to sell you a new vehicle 1 part at a time. SSS tires wanted $500 to do 2 ball joints, mount 1 tire and align my GF's honda civic AND said it would be done in 2 hours. I told them to FO !!! Her regular mechanic (a guy I trust) said everything is fine, just needs an alignment as he thought the toe in was toed out. See what I mean ? $400 savings in 24 hours !! Oh, it could also be rear bushings. If your rear axle is sloppy it affects the steering somewhat. I'm thinking specifically the link bushings... B

Call it a wind deflector. As I understand, it directs a downdraft that helps keep the rear window clear and maybe theoretically with gas mileage, but I think it is generally useless. You will need the hinges for the rear glass also as thats what it mounts on and they are different from the hinges without it. I thought I saw one for sale in our little classifieds section. You can always start a thread in the Parts Wanted section. Junkyards/wreckers are about the only other source. I hate to think what a stealership would charge for a new set up... Oh, there's always Ebay. B

Well, what it boils down to is that you have the same final drive ratio front and rear. Depending on the set up, it doesn't necessarily matter how you get there. For example, on the Pathys the transfer case only drives the front axle so the gearing from it could be different, then adjusted for in the front pumpkin. I don't know if this is the case, just spouting theory. I think the real issue with the Rockwell is the size and weight... B

LOL Martin, no I haven't forgotten... It's kinda my fault for taking so long to get it to him, but well, there it is... B

Actually, the most common scenario would be a Pathy with a ruined automatic tranny, kind of like the one in the Parts for Sale section right now for $750 I believe... B

It also lets you pull your truck into the diveway when your clutch MC takes a crap... I don't believe I have an interlock switch on my 95XE so I plan to set one up. B

Ahh, well, you must mean this link http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/exhaustdesign/index.html in this thread http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6457&hl= Sorry it took so long, but I don't always have time to do searches for people. I mean that in a nice way, I'm sure you understand... B

One of the major plusses the smart car has in crashes like this is its lighter weight; it has much less momentum. What would be frightening would be the same crash, but a head on with a Suburban. It would go from +70 to -40 MPH in an instant. That would be REALLY bad... B

You have a 95XE 2 wheel drive ??? DOH !!! What the hell are you doing with a 2 wheel drive ?? Ok, the TSB is specifically for 4 wheel drives. Here's the read... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 Chiltons states 5.1 pts (2.5 quarts) for a 2 wheel drive so you did it right and haven't caused any damage. I see no harm in putting in more oil than 2.5q as it is not a pressurised system, but again, the TSB states for 4x4, not 2x4. Just pull the shifter and pour in 3 quarts (after draining it and replacing the drain plug of course) and call it good. Hanging a horse shoe up side down over the garage door, burning some myrrh and frankincense while chanting cant hurt either. No sacrifices are needed for refilling the tranny... What the hell are you doing with a 2x4 anyway !! B

When you have the battery disconnected, it has been said to step on the brakes a few times to fully discharge the system. I'm not really sure what your issue is though... B

Absolutely GL-4 (Dont let them tell you GL-5 the same thing or compatible), and make sure to put in 5 quarts, not 3.5 or what ever the manual says. There is a TSB posted in the Garage/Tech section about it. The brand I hear the most often is Redline, but I'm sure there are other suitable. I'm still running Dino as a flush so I don't have any links for you. B

First, what condition is the key in ? Are the teeth very rounded, or is it bent ? Before replacing the cylinder, try lubricating it/cleaning it out. I 'fixed' an ignition just by spraying in some WD-40, putting the key in, jiggling and turning it, pulling it out wiping it off and repeating about 50 times. About 1/2 way through the process, the lock began to work smoothly but I continued until the key came out 'clean'. That was 1 year ago and no problems yet. Remember, that lock has old, contaminated lubricant, lint, grit, grime and gunk packed into it. When you have the door panel off, check the linkage to it to make sure it is not binding the lock. There are some plastic pieces that are known to wear out. That may not be part of the issue, but worth looking at when you are there. Good luck ! B

My Pathy spent it's first two years in Rochester, NY. Between that and the the famous exhaust leak, it was enough to start the problem which then went unattended until the other day, causing it to grow. Odds are you are ok, but it couldn't hurt to put a heat shield or some fireproof insulation underneath in that spot... B

Sorry about that Bud, but the bright side is that at least you figured out that it's a no-go before you you had it torn apart !! I'm sure you could use the winch anyway... B

I remember reading something about that, but at this point I'll be damned if I know where. I'll work on it and keep tuned... Sorry Bud. B

Hey Bud. Yes, it is possible but as you suspected, it takes some effort. The fact that you have the two sitting there helps. Are they both Auto or MT ? That helps more. Depending on your answer, it could be a bolt in, but worst is to weld in some front carriers. SteeevO has done the same thing and is amost done. PM him, and search in the WD21 forum for his threads. If you can't find them, I'll dig them up in a day or two... Let me know. B

DOH, I considered saying fuses, but I KNEW you would have checked them before !! But then, thats usually a symptom, not the prob... *looks for other post* B

Nice work dk !! I hope it is thick enough to withstand a solid hit though... And yeah, the stock mounting points pretty much suck, especially with the M6 bolts. I've been thinking about that but don't have any definite or proven answers yet. Hey Crazy, JJ Big Shoe has the prototype, but I don't know if he has mounted it yet. Just waiting for feed back at this point. It turned out fairly well considering a 1 off and the learning curve, but I already have some improvements in mind, not to mention going with 3/8 instead of 1/2" to lessen the material and forming cost. I suspect the 1/2" is overkill for most people and it takes a while to form properly. Once my test driver runs into a few things and spring rolls around, I should be able to make some for sale and look at underbody plates also. No garage in the winter sucks !! Thanks for the interest, and I'll definitely keep you posted ! Oh, here is a link to the one I made if you missed it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6031&hl=skid B

Hey Filthy, how about a write up and maybe a part # for that ? B