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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Yes, better shocks would help some. With only 67k on the truck, the front end should be in decent shape unless it was ill used... The torsion bars may have sagged some and could use a little adjustment also. B
  2. Are you saying you checked the output line of the coil (goes to the distributor ?) with a volt meter and only got 12 votls coming out ? It should be more like 15,000 volts, and thats NOT how you want to test it !! Tell me I misunderstood... Do you have an Ohmmeter ? B
  3. Well, according to your #'s and if your speedo was correct with the smaller tires, it now reads 7% slow. Or 60 mph indicated is actually 64mph traveled. No real biggie. B
  4. *snicker* Ok, fair enough, I did not know that. Never had a new pathfinder or lived on the tundra... The only thing I can think of is that the original oil must have a greater multi weight range/less viscus rating. I am suprised that Nissan only suggests 1 oil for all temperature ranges... I'm running 85w90 with some Lucas oil stabilizer which is nice in the summer, but as soon as the temp gets below 50 or so, the tranny is stiff to shift for the first mile or two. B
  5. Odd... but then many speedo's are inaccurate to begin with. Perhaps your was reading fast before ?? (I'm assuming 31" tires) Also, tires aren't exactly the size they say on the sidewall. For example, I believe the BGF AT is about 30.5 mounted. The width of the rim could influence it. Perhaps your 32" tires are 31.6 or something. Here's a fun little tool. You have to play with the metric sizes to get the desired diameter, but you'll figure it out... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html B
  6. If you do want to fix it, it's easy and cheap; you can do it yourself no problem. Just buy bushings for both sides and do it right. Maybe buy a new bolt for the other side ? Worth inspecting it.... B
  7. I believe Simon is correct. Didn't you put in 80w-90 or 85w-90 ? 75w-90 is whats called for... B
  8. Maybe and maybe. First thing to do is check to make sure the hand brake is releasing properly (the cables can bind/hang in the tube) and visibly inspect underneath the truck to make sure nothing is interfering with the cable. If thats all good, jack it up, and pull the rear drum and take a look. If you have rear disks, it could be the caliper piston or the slide pins sticking. B
  9. LOL MZ, I shift on the fly to 4Low in reverse at 40mph no problem other than the grinding and clicking noises... Those damn manuals don't know that they are talking about !! B
  10. Without making it specific to you, yes thats the problem. Most people dont think. I worked with a guy who had a leaky autotranny; 1 qt a week at least. When I heard him laughing about just dumping more in all the time I clued him in... To his defense, he pulled the tranny and fixed the leak with in 2 weeks after driving like that for months. Next time you have the opportunity, watch to see how careful a motorcyclist is at a toll stop (like a bridge or something). The area is so slick from leaky cars it is unreal. I can start from a stop in 2nd or 3rd and lay a smokie for 1-200 feet without trying due to how slick the pavement is... B
  11. Considering he says oil change pump, no I don't think it is for brakes. Did you look at the link ? I'm not sure as your post is barely legible. Harbie, I can see some applications for that, but I doubt you'd be able to feed a line into many motors that would do a better job than just pulling the drain plug. I know occasionally it is handy to have a vacuum source, but in general, I wouldn't get one. If I had an automotive shop, maybe... B
  12. Please don't double post, it confuses things... Thanks. B
  13. My truck would read maybe 1/3 up on the temp gauge at operating temp. The radiator was replaced and now it reads maybe 1/4 way up. I have found that the cooling system is very efficient in these trucks. That said, I'd be concerned if my temp gauge ever hit the 1/2 way mark. Some people in cold climes report thaty their trucks don't really/take a long time to warm up. What is the temp where you live ? I also plan to add oil/coolant temp and alt meter cluster. I believe you put the oil temp in the pressure sensor hole above the starter ? I would T it. The cluster should come with instructions... I haven't looked into it; I'm sure someone will chime in. B
  14. Cool. Where did you get the rebuild kit ? Is it a Beck Arnley rebuild kit ? B
  15. I'm not sure about the speedo, but someone posted recently that the 94-95's have crappy gauges; mine has intermittent issues, I'm still not sure what the problem is... Someone posted to pull the gauge and clean/grease the contacts. I don't believe anyone has responded as to if this worked. As for the check engine light and 16 flashes, do this first and get back to us. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 B
  16. Thanks for the post with scan pict Red ! Don't you have have one of those OLD 2 door versions though ? You know, the ones before they figured out the manual ? Sorry V6, but I remember the 30 mph max speed that Red's post shows... I'm assuming thats due to the strain on the T-case. What fool tries to go 30+ in 4Low, I have no idea ! I'm fairly certain I saw a max speed of <50mph warning, but maybe thats memories from my D720... I will verify this tomorrow. Regardless, who drives 50+ in 4Hi to be safe from road conditions ? That just doesn't make sense to me; either it is relatively safe for 2x or you drive slower in 4x... I'll dig out the manual and verify that I'm right or wrong... B
  17. Yes, the front ends are weak. If you do any real wheeling, you will trash the front end eventually. The bigger wheels and higher it is, the sooner something will give. It's just a fact with these trucks. Calmini, and L&P can both help a lot. I'm waiting for a SAS set up. B
  18. Check the wiring connector... Jiggle it. Clean it. It's a common issue B
  19. Agreed NP, although here in Cali, I never have to use 4x4 unless I'm playing. Isn't there a max speed suggested for 4Hi ? 45 mph or something ? I'll have to check the owners manual later... B
  20. There is a thread where a guy posted picts of a wooden frame work he built outside to swap bodies... Inside a garage, I'm not sure, but probably something similiar except to go under the body... B
  21. Aww, why did you have to tell them that ?? I was getting a good laugh... B
  22. Precise1

    WTF

    The JS.Wonka is still present, my firewall picks it up every time. Oddly enough, sometimes it can deal with it, other times not. I'm not sure why, but I am certain different computer security set ups get different effects. B
  23. 90-95 were available with rear abs. If you have the light in the dash, odds are it is installed on the truck. Perhaps it is not working correctly ? If the ABS light flickers or comes on when you drive it, ther is a fault and it is disabled and functioning as 'normal' brakes. There is a control unit under the drivers seat, an actuator by the second cross member and a sensor unit at the rear pumpkin. B
  24. Geeky, yes, most bikes have 'large' tires... In the rear, with the front being 1/2 the size. None of this really matters due to the tires being radiused. Motorcycles ride on a contact patch of a few square inches, thats it. Riding a bike is a symphony of ballance, gyro's and traction. Remove traction from the equasion and it generally means a crash ! Yes, maybe you only drip a little bit, but you stop at a freeway off ramp light and drip a few drops. So does the 10th guy, and the 20th, etc. Along comes a motorcyclist, leans to turn and down he goes if he is unlucky. I have crashed twice due to fluids on the road; first time resulted in a dislocated shoulder, second just bruises and cosmetic damage to the bike. I have hit oil/antifreeze at least 10 times... Crotch rockets are the safest bikes to ride as they handle and stop the best, but yes, the idiots who dont wear protective gear much less helmets (shudder) are just asking for it ! B
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