Precise1

Frame mounting points are the same IIRC but there might be some bumper/valance interference as those are different. Pretty sure it can be used without much trouble. B

You need to crawl your exhaust, meaning inspect the entire length of it for clearance while examining all hangers and checking all bolts. Use something metalic to bang against it to see if you can make the rattling sound. Be patient, you are almost there... B

Fair enough, but don't post everywhere. How about in the regional section, the general forum and the off topic?? B

Yet another reason to completely avoid the 2 doors... B

That is a really nasty picture, Tex. I wish you wouldn't be so eager to flash it all the time... Did you read the link that was provided for you?? B

Yes, it is one of the stock sizes. With the proper backspacing (3.75-4") and the torsion bars adjusted properly, you should not have any rubbing issues (or perhaps very slightly and occasionally). The difference between 235/75/15 tires and 31" tires is aprox 7% so your speedo will be reading 60mpf and you will actually be going 64-65 B

Yep, Adam said it... B

I was guesstimating and going by my experiences, and mainly talking abbout vehicle response and braking. It's not like at 85mph a pathy is suddenly going to steer poorly, much less go veering off the road, but the brakes tend to be lacking and any sudden emergency evasive action becomes sketchy. These vehicles were never intended for high speed. As Alkorahil pointed out, when these cars were designed/made, the speed limit was 55mph... As for revving, I'd probably not hold it at more than 4000rpm for any length of time, but that's pretty fast right there. B Oh, the way I check my speedo is the radar boxes. The ones that display your speed as a warning. You have those out there??

When you turn, the wheels are trying to follow different sized circles so yes, they will look different. This is normal. B

Ok, I understand where you are coming from. Let me say though, about 75mph seems to be the max 'safe' speed considering the stock vehicle, less of course for lifts, big tires, etc. You know what I mean, so don't bother arguing... What sized tires do you have now? For example, going from 235/75/15 to 31" tires will garner a 7%+ increase. B

Yep, clean the positive terminal and start tracing voltage back to the starter. If you have full voltage at the starter, leave your meter hooked up where you can see it and try cranking it again, does the voltage dive or not? B

The 'cold' reading on the dip stick is actually after driving it a few miles and doing the gear selector change like NT outlined and you check the level with the motor running. The 'hot' reading is after driving at freeway speeds for 10 miles or more. I'm trying to top off my level also, and it is kind of a pain in the butt. I seem to get different readings at different times. Not a huge fluctuation, but enough to be irritating. B

Heater core hoses or the heater core it's self. Check the passenger floor board to see if it is damp, but odds are the leak isn't that bad yet. B

There are screws scattered about in the assembly that could probably use tightening. Behind the lower panel under the steering wheel, behind the gauge cluster, behind the glove box, behind the center panel... You will probably have to take 1/2 of it apart to get them all. B

I was pretty happy with the 5 speed, 6 just sounds like extra shifting... B

Thank you for that. Is this one dimensioned for a 3" drop or 70mm?? B

Thats the resistor pack for the fan speeds, isn't it?? B

Also, the lines from the tranny are on the passenger side, below the level of the bottom pulley. You can visually trace them if in doubt. I have to play devils advocate; have you checked the tranny fluid level and condition? B

*snort* B

Two points. Right behind the battery (1 bolt into the body) and then over to the engine block (or the PS pump, can't remember which). Depending on the condition if the cable, it may just be worth replacing. Diaelectric grease at the contact points couldn't hurt either... B

Disassemble the hubs to inspect and make sure they are engaging properly. You may have crud in there from last year... Clean and lube everything and reassemble/test. B

Towards the rear of the truck on the passenger side inside frame rail is the ABS unit, make sure to bleed that as well. I don't know about the proportioning valve as I do not have 4 wheel disk... B

With all due respects to the fine, helpful NPORA members that work at dealerships, this is exactly why I avoid stealerships when ever possible; You are just as likely to get a complete idiot as a helpful, knowledgeable employee... B

LOL, yeah, that does look familiar!! I honestly don't know if you planted the seed and I forgot the source, or if that is the only logical place to put a solo 2" gauge... Did you ever mount an inline filter?? Mine seems to fit pretty well, but other styles might not. I'm glad you linked your posts because I think this should be pinned eventually. As you pointed out, we don't have enough data yet to fully understand the best way to plumb and cool the trannys. Please chime in with anything else you can think of!! This is a nice tidbit dug by Tungsten... B

There is a link pinned in the garage section or wd21 section where you can download a 94 factory service manual. This has a section devoted to the AT with a comprehensive trouble shooting section. This is where I would start. Are you running a stock tranny cooler? If so, are you certain that it is not partially or completely blocked? They are prone to this and lack of flow may have something to do with your issues. All I can think of right now... B