Precise1

Amp tester is ideal, but here is a down and dirty you can do with a volt meter. Normally it would be in the car and you use the starter, but since you have have a new, strong battery you can do it differently. Hook the battery up to something that will give it a fairly heavy load, hook up your voltmeter, turn the something on and record the voltage drop. Now do the same with the old one. Is there a significantly greater drop on the old battery?? If so it is getting tired. Also a lower voltage is normal in older batterys as the acid gets weaker, electrical surfaces lose some conductivity, etc. I've had car batteries that barely read over 12 volts last another year or more... Now that I have said that, take the old battery to where you bought the new one and ask them to check it for you. B

Here are a few... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24287 B

Have you tried the 'find a used part' sites? Got some hard to find headlights that way, nation wide searches usually work... B

San Ramon, eh?? Not too far from me, but I hardly ever get down that way. B

You can download the entire FSM here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5410&st=0&p=457867entry457867 Did you ever try that?? You cant lead an old dog to water, or something like that... B

Sorry, I was thinking that if you got water in the air box, you probably sucked it in with more to come, not some slow leak. Still, like I said, I like the idea and completely agree with you about rather having a wet truck than a non running one!! B

I'd say it is more the unit design and driving conditions that have the most impact on shock life. They are not created equally and what lasts in California on a commuter may not last on a wheeler on New York, too many variables... Yes, I have seen shocks leak from sitting too long (years) so I assume some seals deteriorated... B

HAHAHA!! I love it!! Only flaw that I see is that when you hear the buzzer, I doubt you will have time to get out of the water hole as it will probably only take seconds for the air box to fill up more, but it should give you time to take your foot off the gas and shut off the motor. Then your second problem of the truck filling with water becomes real... Still, it is a great idea!! It looks as though you could have installed 2 1.5" lines instead of one, any reason why not?? I too am cautious with deep water, and are looking at intake modifications, so don't feel alone!! B

Way ahead of you, Dowser... I keep thinking about Kiwipete's recommendation of making a metal snorkel rather than buying one (not to mention $400 for a plastic tube is a bit steep). I have a local shop that made my custom exhaust and modified my ARB to fit a 2" lift so I have perfect faith in them doing a decent job. The two things I need to work out is I want the forward facing intake with the water separator and I want an air filter with more surface area than stock. I was considering enclosing a cone filter but also thought that another air box (with a flat filter) could be used. I don't care what it is out of, I care about the shape/size of the box, the size of the filtering element and how I can adapt it. I will soon take a trip to the local wrecker and poke around to try to find a likely option. Many people have reported noticible butt dyno results, and the gains are real enough that the cone filters still sell. I believe it is the intake manifold that is adequate but I am certain the air box can be improved, especially when you have headers, high flow cat and flowmaster muffler with oversized tubing... B

Yes, always carry your own strap. There was a deal here for a 20k lb strap for $20 or such. Please buy and carry one. I'm glad it wasn't an ordeal, but it sounds like it could have been. Are snow tires justifyable now? B

2 door vs 4 door... As was said the reservoir (drivers side near the fire wall) has two pumps on the back of it (towards the back of the car). I don't know the answers to the rest but have you, by chance, downloaded a copy of the Factory Service Manual?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5410&view=findpost&p=457867 B

I agree, I'm hoping for electrical!! Some relay or coil or connection... As for instant non electrical failures without warning, yes most exceptions that I am thinking of are catastrophic failures of components and often related to timing belt like Red sheering the key on his crank pully, k9sar snapping the stud on his tensioner, mws snapping his cam shaft... Wait, that last was due to poor assembly. You get my point 87, and no, I'm not saying that is what happened here. Some odd ways I have cars cut out are mostly fuel related, but not necessarily. 75 Dodge Coronet, the battery shifted over and the positive terminal grounded out on the inner fender. That pretty much shut down the electrical system quickly and caught fire. My sister was driving it and my dad had chained the hood shut because the previous battery was stolen. It burned until the fire department showed up, caved the grill in with an ave, shoved a hose in and put it out. I had it towed home and got it running again. 77 Plymouth Fury, there was something with the fuel filter that only when you were accelerating up a hill, it would block sufficient fuel flow and cut out without warning. Get it turned around and down the hill and it would run fine until the next hill. 74 VW Superbeetle there was a fuel additive waved paper seal in the gas tank that would drift around and at the worst moments would get sucked against fuel pick up tube. It would die 10-15 seconds after the first splutter. Let it sit for a few minutes and it would start up and run fine until the next random event. That one drove me nutz!! Took months for me to figure it out... I can recall other weird ways like my dune buggy that suddenly ran wide open on a highway in Mexico and wouldn't stop until I killed the ignition. It was on fire at the time and the throttle return springs on the dual cabs detempered and couldn't close the throttles. That doesn't count, does it?? Ok, so lets hear what he learns when he first takes a look. B

Not to my knowledge. Unfortunately, it wasn't Dan's lack of internet access that was the issue, (you can get internet almost anywhere, from cafes, libraries and work, etc) it was his refusal to respond to any form of communication. If you see him in the tubes, tell him to swing by. He has some things to clear up... B

I will agree with usually, not always. I have experienced and seen exceptions to this... B

Good info Dowser!! If you suspect the line is blocked (quite possible), then unhook the line at the pump and at the nozzle in back and try to blow back through to the reservoir with a compressed air source. Blowing the other way could work but may wedge blockage material even harder if there is a pinch point somewhere. B

Yep, "pull your distributor cap and crank the engine, see if the distributor turns." This will tell you if your timing belt is ok, not to mention see if your rotor is wasted). On your year, it is supposed to be changed every 55 or 60k miles. When was it last replaced? Another quick test is to see if you have spark. Pull a spark plug wire and slide the boot back so you can see the metal contact. Hold it near a metal ground and have someone crank the truck. You should have a fat white/blue spark if all is well. Don't shock yourself, it won't harm you but it doesn't feel great either. I have never had any fuel issues so I have no suggestions there. Good luck, keep us posted and keep asking... B

Very Nice!! Thank you for taking the time to write and post that. I am going to pin it in the appropriate model section and leave a link here. Next we need to see pictures of what she can do now... B

Brief answer is no. What year are you trying to get info on and we can tell you the range of that model. B

Ok, I'm done laughing and will just assume you are having a bad day/week/month. But then you start again!! On the first part, I challenge you to live up to that 5 years from now with constant, daily informative posts, not 50 posts in 250 days. If you can do this, you are a better man than I am; I get tired of typing the same thing over and over!! On the second, the posts are dated so there is no guess as to how old they are. If the truck and locker was made 10 years ago and the install/review information is 5 years old, that somehow disqualifies it?? You are not being rational. The system here is to have a few threads on the same topic that have a long history and many pages of posts so the information and input is contiguous as possible, not 100 different threads that just have a scattering of posts/information. We even try to link appropriate threads to lengthen the chain, not start over every time someone asks. It really works better that way in the long run, trust me on this. Ok, this is what I know. I can't justify $1k on the ARB air locker I want, so I bought a Lockrite locker which is sitting in the broken washing machine in the garage next to the CBR1100XX. I can't install it in the pathfinder that I don't drive because it is a LSD rear end so I have to buy an open differential first. From what I have heard, road manners (cornering) are iffy, tire wear is significant but it makes a huge difference off road. Owning 3 pathfinders of two different models (none of which have ever been driven, much less worked on by me), I'm going to wait until summer to decide if I am going to put a mechanical locker rear axle into my daily driver that I don't drive. I will look up the thread that 5523Pathfinder (the nissan/infinity mechanic) started or chimed in on a couple of years ago, amongst others, to reassess the pros and cons. Then I will search to find the appropriate installation How To and read all of it, hopefully 18 pages over 10 years and then I will be satisfied that I know all that I need to and have read all the tricks, do's and dont's to learn from other peoples valuable experience that was recorded when it was fresh in their mind. Yeah, a bit sarcastic and wise-assish, but I'm kinda like that anyway and you bring it out. As I said before, if you can't find the info, let me know, I'll help you find it. If you don't even want to try, why should I? If you think something written years ago is useless, I'm not sure I can help you to your satisfaction regardless. B

Ok, you can do that with the edit button also... It is an antennae, FM IIRC. B

Especially because I doubt they charged you the 1/2 assed price, they charged you the full blown 'we did it right' price. Could you imagine picking up your car, "Well Johnny here kinda 1/2 assed the job so it probably wont last like it should so we are only charging you the 1/2 assed price. We quoted you $800 to do it right but it's only $480 now..." At least you got it dealt with before it caused real damage and/or an accident. B

I know, that's what I was trying to point out, that suggesting someone search need not include fish slapping them... B

You can download a 94 version from the pinned link in the Garage section, all the important stuff is the same other than the dash and some wiring. Follow it until it is obviously not applicable, it should work fine for 90% of things... B

There is a pathy specific list in the New Member section.. Yes to maintenance records/questions, crawling the car, checking fluids, clutch, brakes, front end and drivetrain. Test drive without the radio going, windows down and listen, check every light, doodad, door, window, etc. B

LOL, he said that nicely!! Everything from ARB air lockers to Lockrite mechanical lockers to Lincoln (welded) lockers. It's all here, just gotta look and read up. Let me know if you can't find the info... B