Precise1

Oh my... *facepalm* B

Yep. AFAIK I'm the only one running one, but here is the thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503&view=&hl=filter&fromsearch=1 B

I think that is part of the problem of it getting really hot at slow speeds, you are between the radiator and AC. The reduces the effectiveness 20-25% when you are moving, and means that when you are stopped, the air being blown on it is directly off of the radiator, circa 180 degrees. That's not going to help much with heat exchange... As for your concern about it warming up in the winter, can you not put in a shield to block direct flow over some/all of the cooler without significantly interfering with the radiator cooling capacity (that isn't being used at capacity)? I do question what improvements can be done to my cooler set up as well. I'm leaning towards a second cooler inside of the engine bay with a selectable E fan on it or something. It has yet to be determined, but I suspect that my current set up will not perform to my satisfaction on a hot trail. Like was said, what the hell, give it a shot. It is reversable and you already have a gauge to monitor things so it's not like you are running blind. B

Maybe he did a body swap... B

Sounds like the only thoughts you want to hear are "good idea". Hey, why not, rig it up. I don't think it will be as efficient or safe as the current location thoguh. If something bad happens your temp gauge should tell you about it either by skyrocketing or plummeting. B

Is this a VQ35 specific issue? I do not recall seing that unit on my 99, but then I'm just getting to know it... B

There are pinned topics on body and suspension lifts in the garage section. Check those out and then ask if there is something you don't understand. Nothing personal, just this question gets asked at least every month... B

The other thing you can do is mount another knock sensor on the bell housing as close to the crank as possible, unplug the old one and plug the new one in. MaritimeMan did this years ago and AFAIK he has never had a problem with it. I tried to find a thread on it but could only find a few posts. Perhaps you will have better luck?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=574&view=findpost&p=3834 B

Makes sense. Yes, start with the contacts everywhere and check the condition of the large cables where possible. If that achieves nothing, it may be starter related, but one step at a time. Hopefully it is a manual so you can push start it... B

Or there is an issue with the connection/wires to the O2. There is a pinned topic about how to check the O2 with a volt meter. I'm not sure what else it could be without simply guessing. TPS?? Like I said earlier, start unplugging sensors 1x1 to see what one doesn't make any difference... B

I have had good luck with sand paper/steel wool/scotch brite. If there is corrosion (green white fuzz) make a mix of water and baking soda and pour it on there. It will fizz a bit and nutralise it. Be sure to check the positive connections also, including those at the starter. How old is the battery? Id it possible the alternator has failed?? Sorry, no clue about the pressure sender. B

Adam, were you stillborn?? B

Nope, bad idea IMHO. Reasons listed above, and mainly mud and road grit will coat the cooler, reducing the heat exchange capacity, not to mention drastically shortening the life of the fan. Also, think of the heat you can feel when you don't have a shifter boot in place. All that gets blown back at speed, it is very hot down there!! Imagine idling in traffic on a hot day when the temp of the road alone is 120+ degrees... I've been trying to think up a better place for my cooler also, considering some kind of fan for low speeds perhaps, but I just don't think that is an answer. That said, for now I plan to run a second cooler in series. B

^Check out the snorkel weasel!!! A lot of good parts on it though... Sheit, that sucks!! I highly recommend talking to whoever changed the timing belt, it should not have let go like that. Perhaps they will try to repair it, I have heard of cases where the people got lucky and ther wasn't much real damage. Not trying to get your hopes up, just saying... B

Yep, I was going to recommend 2", that is 15% larger than the stock 1.75" Yes, that is how the stock exhausts are routed and terminate. B

200+ miles of stop and go driving?? Yes, you can get away with it. Just file down the wear tabs, but still change the pads asap. B

Not bad, but I don't know what the prices are like in your area. A little higher mileage than I care for, but as long as it was well maintained, it should still have some life left in it. Did you really check for rust?? Under the rear seat and the rear frame?? What does carfax say about it?? B

In my opinion, the ride doesn't suffer much at all. Actually, I think the over all handling and feel is better with a slightly more agressive suspension. As for lockers, there are air and mechanical lockers available running $400-$1000+, but you need an open differential for the install. Have you checked to see if you have LSD?? You can always grab a LSD rear from a wrecker. I have 2 stock racks in the garage. If you were closer, I'd be trading you for deer meat... Again, a wrecker is your friend. Someone here installed a newer style aluminum rack off of a Frontier. It looked pretty good. I'm not sure if an Xterra rack would fit. Grab a tape measure and start looking... Some more than others, but yeah... Thanks BTW!! Ahh, better and better. I'm your age and a machinist as well. Never was a mechanic, but I can't remember the last time any of my vehicles were in a shop... Welcome aboard James! B

Damn, that is nasty!! I didn't know that could happen. I have to ask though, how is it that they sell synthetic/dino blend oil?? I have been using it in my pathy for years. B

Um, yeah... Chains can be super strong (and super heavy). They are also far more likely to become shrapnel... Carry and use what you want. I have what I would use; if you ever meet me, we'll be using my stuff. B

An impact gun would have done wonders, but I'm not sure if you can get in there without pulling the radiator. Ok, soak the shaft joint area with a penetrant oil like PB blaster or Liquid wrench or Kroil, NOT WD40 or 3in1 oil. Hit it with a metal hammer several times. Soak it again. Wait a while (day?) and hit it with a hammer again. now grab 2 180 degree opposed points on the pulley, wiggle and pull. Is there any movement?? The other option is to just go get a puller, which you may have to do anyway, but do not skip the penetrating oil or hitting it with a hammer step... B

Can't help you with custom bumpers, but the roof racks, yes. First off, what Packie88 has is really a basket, not a rack. The stock racks have a weight rating of 80lbs IIRC and they are mounted directly to the sheet metal. You can retrofit one fairly easily using jack nuts or riveting in threaded inserts. Thule and Yakima make after market mounts that clamp to the door gaps and rain gutters IIRC and have considerable more payload but are a bit taller and more exposed. I believe that, or something like it is what Packie is using. Also, when you say you won't do a lift, I recommend you do a moderate 'poor mans lift' and run 31" tires. This will help with off road situations significantly and is almost free. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18&st=140 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038 A locker or simply a LSD rear would help a lot also. Happy hunting Bud!! I have a smoker if you have the game... B

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear with my statements, please see the corrections. My brain goes faster than my typing sometimes, and of course I know what I mean, I think... The newest style, post 2004, I don't think I would buy. Actually I think the VQ powered R50s are more desirable than the VG ones (same basic body, more power) as long as the motor proves it's self to be a reliable 250k+ mile unit. While I have 2 95s, I also just purchased a 99 so I cant hate them too much... B

You are welcome. You can take the battery to almost any auto parts store for testing, for some reason I misread/misunderstood. B

All 90-95 WD21 are reliable as long as they are properly maintained and not beat on to badly, the ones before that were weak and girlie... The old style R50 have proven themselves as far as reliablilty, and the newer ones with the 3.5l seem to be doing about the same but need a few more years of history. I know nothing about the new ones 2005+ models, other than I doubt I would buy one. As for all the compatibilities, the 3.0l and 3.3l share the same trannys, but other than that, consider each model number to be its own group. Just start buying them up. Several good buys over the next few years could keep you in pathfinders for life... B