Precise1

I see them all the time, bone stock and ferrying the kids around... It's a questionable base for an off road vehicle, most people do not mod $30k trucks that are near new and they are new enough that they don't need much repair yet so there is little knowledge base generated. Most people who drive these go to the dealership, not grab their creeper and a wrench... Lots of reasons that there isn't much discussion about them. B

Ahh crap, I forgot to take the picture... I can't seem to find a picture on line but I will post one after work today. LOL at the Weathertech, $100+ for floor mats?? A piece of farking plastic or rubber?? Holy crap, what a scam!! I want their customer list, I could sell them anything!! B

Explain to her that you may get a hard time if there isn't any mud. I'm sure you know this, but look for a bent tie rod end. Also the compressionrod/strut rod (the rod that goes from lower control arm to the frame) is known to rust and oval out the hole, even if the bushing looks good. Check that out before you go to far with the front end and especially before alignment. B

Must be, but I think the difference in type is due to the frequency difference. I'm guessing that a standard short mast antennae will not have good FM reception? B

I have a sling I can send you so you at least don't move it all the time. What side?? Yeah, I have both... Sorry to hear and heal well... B

You can convert to MPFI, but you would need everything from a donor truck, including wiring harness and ECU IIRC. It might cause issues with an auto tranny brain though as the two units communicate. No the EUCs are not interchangable AFAIK Far easier to port and polish... B

This is what you need to read, not go to the auto parts store... Actually, what you really want to do is the opposite. It isn't hard to check for codes and you want to read if any are stored as this may shed light on what the issue is. Then you clear them, if any, and check for reoccurance... *sigh* B

I saw the picture of the location before I read "Here's mine until I find a permanent location" and thought that this isn't going to end well... You have done so many mods to your truck, I have no idea what room you have anymore... B

Both!!! Oh, what was the question?? X2 on the sheet metal patch. Get a section of thin stainless sheet and trim/form it to what you need (over lap seperate plates if it is too dificult to use 1), drill some appropriately small holes, seal the edges with RTV and screw it on. Depending on how you do it, it won't look too redneck (especially if it is the same on both sides) and allows you to access everything at a later date. This is almost exactly how I fixed the infamous burnt driver side floor board. B

More like the fuse it is linked to, but I'm weak with electronics and I don't really know what the hell you did... B

I recently lost my cluster in my 95. It was a fuse, not clearly labeled (10 amp) and good to go after I found the wire tha melted to my headers. Hope it is as easy for you. B

Perhaps I am talking out of sheer ignorance (old school here) but no way in ()ell would I run an oil for 25k miles. I saw synthetic oil on the shelf, one being 'regular' for $6.5/qt and the other was 'extended mileage' (10k) for $7. WOW!! For an extra 50 cents I get an extra 5k miles per oil change!! What a deal!! Why the ()ell would anyone buy the cheaper stuff. Is this stuff formulated for American cars that aren't meant to run a long time, or is that why the American cars don't run as long. Like I said, this is not my area of expertise but this screams BS to me. B

Bleed the brakes and clean/lube the caliper slide pins. Put the anti vibration jel on the contact points of the brake shoes. Does it still do it? Are the pads and/or rotor glazed? If so, scuff them up with an abrasive... B

Just another thought, I didn't see it mentioned... Did you check the ECU for stored trouble codes?? It's free and easy, usually the first place you want to start. The write up on the procedure is in the Garage/How To section. Also I had a plymouth that would die, but only up hill. It was the fuel filter and I always attributed it to the volume that I was drawing through it, but perhaps the inclination had something to do with it. If you don't find anything readily, perhaps another fuel filter is in order to see if it would well again, if only a short period of time. B

It was on a 74 super beetle, and yes, it drove me nutz for months as it was almost a random occurrance. Yes diagnosing this is a PITA. I believe I got lucky peering down into the gas tank and seeing something float by (it was a straight pipe, no flap) when I was checking fuel level VS the fuel gauge. I had to pull and flush the gas tank to get the piece out, it was a waxed cardboard cap gasket for some sort of fuel additive, you know, 1/2 " diameter thing. When it died, it would stutter for a bit first before dying, I would expect the same from your pathy. It is hard to shut off all gas intake and it should still run on the residual pressure for a few moments, I would think. The reason I think electrical is the whole slowing down and/or turning left aspect is not really random. It sounds more like a wire or connector swinging some way from the vector force. I really don't know what though. Try having the truck running and moving all the wiring and connectors, junctions, etc that you can see and safely reach to see if anyone of them makes it stumble or die. Definitely check the sender unit but I'd do the above test before pulling the sender and fuel pump to look in the tank. B

Yes, most people just replace the entire unit as the cost difference is not significant VS the time and effort to rebuild. There are many threads on upper control arms. The condensed version is that some people claim the AC arms do not correct the BJ angle and have poor build quality. The Rough Country/Super Lift upper control arms (same thing) are used my many and have good reviews. Calmini UCAs can have clearance issues for some shocks and are the most expensive. B

Thank you Sir, one less thing to worry about. My VG33 has a significant oil leak at the valve covers (which I tightened) and it is either that or the cam seal that has soaked the alternator. I will simply have to clean, wait and see The timing belt was done at 92k (151 now) 4.5 years ago so I'm not tearing into it just for a seal if I don't have to, especially not outside in the rain... B

The connection needs to cool off to reestablish contact?? Get wiggled/shifted?? I'm seriously guessing at this point. When I had the random gas tank blockage it would need to sit for a little bit before it would restart, presumably for the suction to release and the piece to drop off. Shaking the vehicle seemed to make it restart faster, I found that out after I kicked the crap out of it one day out of frustration. B

Yep, I had asked about it recently and that is what our friendly resident nissan/infinity mechanic said it was. His advice was to remove it and throw it in the trash... B

Your universal joints should have zerk fittings, or at least a bolt in the threaded hole. Definitely buy some long fittings and install them so you can lube the U joints. B

I highly recommend changing your differential oils, brake fluid (expecially if it has any color to it) and the MT oil if applicable. Yes, most do. B

I find it hard to believe that the power steering box (or steering linkage) is binding enough to stall the motor without making obvious noise or the belt slipping or something. I'm not sure what the answer is though. I have personally experienced crap in the gas tank blocking the pick up and it was maddening. It took me months to figure that out... Does it die instantly without warning or do the rpms get lower and it stutters or something before it dies? If you say instantly without warning, I think it is something electrical. A connection breaking or something grounding. This is definitely odd though... B

I saw some at autozone that were identical to what was in both of my Pathys when I bought them. Deep, burly ridged ones that are nice and thick. I'll take a picture later... B

That's what the hell, Adam. I swear you like to make things far more difficult than they need to be... B

Being between the radiator and AC it sits in front of the radiator, so it gets the cold air before the radiator, and at slow speeds the fan pulls the air through it before the radiator. I can see some heat exchange at low speed do to proximity, but the fan should negate a good bit of that. My bad, brain fart... But yes, the coolers are recommended to be placed outermost for greatest efficiency, but you know that... B