Precise1

It looks like you lost some approach angle (or it is the photo?). Also, for lights, I highly recommend these... http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lighting-and-Lighting-Accessories/Hella-Optilux-4-Inch-HID-Driving-Lamp.aspx?t_c=14&t_s=448&t_pt=101014&t_pl=101945 Reason being, they are relatively small, only draw 35 watts and are VERY bright!! If I turn them on, there is little point in having the headlights or PIAA 510s on. Yep, the draw is 3 amps as opposed to 7 amps for the 85 watt PIAA 520s and 4.5 amps for the 55 watt 510s. You have almost 50 amps worth of lights there; if you turn them all on your truck could stall... Seriously though, the HIDs are very bright and generally broadcast the light so that things are illuminated well. I can't use them on the road, but you could cover your truck with 5 of them, 2 up front and one on each side and the rear. B

Ok, so how old are the coil/plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor. I've literally had a pathfinder that ran without a center electrode in the cap... Again, checking the ECU for codes might help. B

Something in the tread of a tire?? Really?? That's strange. The only reason my 3 pathfinders were money pits was the gas mileage... B

You really should have a nice crisp blue/white spark. Did it ever try to catch or simply no firing what so ever?? Remove the dizzy cap (and coil wire) and have someone crank it to make sure the rotor spins (pray it does) Other than that, check the ECU under the passenger seat for stored fault codes. It might tell you something useful... B

The R50s have a drive flange, I removed it to mount the Mile Markers on my wife's 1999.0 Pathfinder. As was said, the sheet that comes with the hubs has general prints. His instructions are correct. Probably your biggest consideration is if the new hubs fit through the stock rims. B

That's the button for the ejector seat. DO NOT PUSH IT WITH ANYTHING ABOVE YOU!! B

The axle shaft will have some play it it (but not much), the hub helps locate it. Are you mistaking movement of the whole spindle assembly?? This would indicate worn ball joints or control arm bushings... B

x2 on the distributor. Pull the coil wire, remove the cap and have someone crank it to see if it spins... I haven't done any injector work on the WD21s and when I worked on the wife's R50, I got a random misfire cyl#1 code even though it was an intermittently dying injector. Purely a guess, but it sounds more like something with the wiring/electronics. Hopefully someone with experience chimes in soon so you can avoid the son-in-law walk of shame!! B

Looks great!! The tires really add to the look. I'm going to have to work on the wife's R50 suspension... B

Yes, Mr510 posted a list of improvements IIRC. I don't understand them, but the point is, Nissan beefed up an existing tranny to handle 250hp instead of 180hp and it works. I am seriously considering installing one (and a VG33) in my 95. B

I do not recall a gasket and I know many people just use a quality RTV after cleaning the adhesion surfaces and have no problems. If there was a gasket, I suspect that I used it, but used RTV in between both sides anyway because I like the filler material. I got mine from Nissan, right here... Great guy, great prices. Enough said... B

So, the ECU says that there was something wrong with the TSP, you say it was working sometimes and your problem is intermittent?? From the 95 FSM which should be the same, 1994 (the earliest) to be found here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26616 B

Why have you had to replace the water pump 5 times?? I don't know of 'the' part that breaks so no help there but I recommend getting a known good replacement and just swapping them out or taking them apart and comparing what is damaged to learn/fix cheaply for spares!! I have a set on my parts 95 if you can't source them otherwise. B Oh, I'm doing well, thanks. Happy New Year!!

I'm sorry... Always carry uninsured arsehole insurance, something crazy like 30% of drivers don't have coverage!! Ok, I have a bumper (with light surface rust in a couple of places on the inside) that I'll damn near give you but the catch is shipping and that it is black, not chrome. That said, ARB for the front (if you can find one) or Kennesaw as was previously mentioned. JamesRich has one that looks pretty good on his truck. For the back, I don't know, I plan to make my own next year out of a 4x4"x.25" thick square tube next year. IMO the tube bumpers aren't all that great for impact but anything is better than the rediculous crap that is stock. I've said it before and will say it again, if you value your Pathy, put heavy duty bumpers and sliders on it!! B

Exactly, ZeD is officially on his 3rd Pathy, he keeps upgrading!! Do try to keep up headpeas... Just started and Dont plan to stop before Next Year!! B

Ok, first thing is check the ECU for stored fault codes, the write up is in the Garage/How To section. Hopefully that turns something up. From there I would check various sensors (from coolant temp sensor to o2 sensor) for proper functioning and perhaps look for vacuum leaks also. How many miles on th truck, auto or manual tranny and can you explain the condition or define when any better? B

The way you intend to do it should work, BUT you will have to prep the 95 first and the 91 will need things like the gas filler tube and steering shaft loosened so they can be compressed. There are a few good threads on body lifts, in the Garage/How To and perhaps in the WD21 sections. I highly recommend reading up on them first to refresh yourself with the details. I can't help with the bolts information unless you tell me thread diameter/pitch and length. IIRC that is all covered in the write ups also... Welcome to the superior world of the 95's BTW. Worked your way up from a lowly 2 door, didn't ya?? B

Yes, the are M8x1.25 and the factory studs were weak, almost anything is better but the ones for the 300zx turbo are the right thread, length and are sufficiently stronger. B

The T-stat is in a housing off of the upper hose, tucked in against the block. IIRC you have to remove the upper timing belt cover (lower first??) to get to it. Before you start changing parts, check the ECU for stored fault codes (write up in the Garage/How To section) first, it may give insight to the idle issue. We can cover other possible causes after that... B

With 170k on that motor, you should have another 100k of life easily. That oil is too thin and has too much detergent for your older motor. Try running dino 10-40 and see if that doesn't lessen the leaks. Seals are cheap and easy to replace, getting to them can be a pain, especially the rear, but if you are pulling the motor to replace it, there is less work to just replace the seals in the existing one. I'd go with the heavier oil first and see what happens. B

Crap, I'm sorry... It's not terribly far from you though, right?? 4-5 hour drive?? Maybe again in spring?? B

Agreed. My understanding is that you can sneak in a VG33 with all the VG30 parts on it, have more power and still pass smog since it won't look any different. Add Ca legal intake and headers and you should be well over 180hp... B

Yes, it should bolt right up. B

That inspires confidence!! B

I would get the correct spark plug. The two you mentioned have a different gap, heat rating and I don't know about the length. Gap is .044" http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/index.asp?mode=nml No harm in running platinum alloy plugs other than the price, they may even last longer. While the V power are OE parts, they list different heat ranges for the I and E engine designations and I tend ti follow the recommendations. Yes, the ignition system is quite strong. My first 95 ran without a center electrode in the dizzy cap; the spark arced from the center spring down to thr rotor on demand... B