Precise1

1996-2004 have struts. Cheapest and best are usually mutually exclusive. Lets start at the baginning, do you want to regain stock height and ride or do you want to lift/stiffen it past stock? B

Superlift actually makes the Rough Country control arms, they are identical other than the RCs are black paint and the SLs are zinc plated. I believe about a year ago SuperLift stopped producing the Rough Country version bu still sells their version, at a higher price of course. I'll post up some picts when I get home, I think I found a new type of aftermarket upper control arm. I don't know if they are still made, but it's worth looking... B

What does the actual mileage calculate out to? Fill up and write down the mileage. Next time you fill up write it down again and subtract the first. Divide the mile amount by the gallon amount and it will tell you MPG. B

Yep, one code/issue may trigger another code/issue. Always start with the easiest/most cost effective/most likely, in this case the MAF and wiring... B

Purely on a hunch I'm guessing intake hose is old, split, leaking?? Lower gears flex the motor mounts more, the engine moves more opening a small gap?? You can check this by spraying a flammable aerosol on the hose while moving it (after visual inspection of course). I prefer WD-40 for many reasons. Just a guess, it's hard to tell from here... B

Damn, you are lucky my buddy just bought a WD21 and needed some parts, I found it first try. Where are one of my 10 calipers?? Where is the thread gauge?? *grumble* It's a short thread, but I'm sure it is an M18x1.5. B

No one will weld a patch over that?? Let me go look for my spare O2 in the garage, I think I saw it yesterday... B

How many miles on it? Has the gear oil been replaced regularly? The diff oil?? Like Nunya said, any idea of where it is coming from?? Try driving along side a wal or long building with the window down, the sound reflection can help a lot or have a passenger try to locate it while you focus on driving. B

If only you were closer, it would go on the MallCrawler99 so K could bash up some cars on her 60 mile commute... B

I count 7 so far. Look at it this way, it's just people looking out for you. At least you don't have 10 people saying that jackstands are a waste of $ and you should never waste your time... I do think we should get back to the blown CV and not diff damage though. B

Exactly my thoughts, just in opposite order of of arrival. They did replace the pressure plate and throw out bearing at the same time, right?? neither should cause this, but they generally should be done at the same time, especially on the pathys where the tranny is a PITA to remove... B

I can easily see clearance issues if it came down. Blow it off if you like, it's your arse that pays, but everyone else is right. That is a terrible disregard for safe work practices and I appreciate everyone pointing that out. Most 'accidents' are easily avoidable... B

Nice Visual!! As for searching and not finding anything current... Ok, here is a break down. Put a Jim Wolf Tech pop charger (air intake) on it, Thorley headers, magnaflow high flow cat and the magnaflow muffler with 2-2.25" pipe all the way. Clean the MAF, tune up and make sure the O2 is functioning properly. That will give you all the power you can reasonably get. For the tranny, change the fluid, install a large tranny cooler (bypassing the stock unit) and add a temp gauge for monitoring. When towing or in hilly country, turn off the OD. Is the toast done?? B

Replace fuse (maybe it was poorly made) and try again to see if/when it blows. Oh, hey, is this through the fuse box or through a relay with a dedicated inline fuse?? Often fuse box circuts run more than 1 item so you may be overloading it when you turn something on... B

Is it when you turn it on or when it has been on for a while. If it is at first, maybe there is current surge? If it is when it was on for a while, I'd suspect you are grounding out somewhere. Trace the wires to make sure they are dry, tight and not rubbing through anywhere. B

I remember this talked about here and I think some CVs use the spacer and some dont? If there is a spacer, reuse it, if not don't worry?? Use the spacer on the vehicle, not what the CV comes with? I just can't recall well enough and haven't done the job myself so I can't put it to rest for you. The answer is here though... B

Yep, good advice all the way around. Since you specify a floor jack, I assume this is staying in the garage/driveway. I have 6 jacks but the one I'll grab first at home (expecially for the 4x4) is the full sized 3 ton floor jack with the matching 3 ton jack stands. It has enough height for most jobs without using blocks, is very stable and doesn't require a lot of elbow grease. Of course, I don't pick it up much... As for brands, I don't know as that one showed up in my driveway from a moving neighbor. I do know that the small Craftsman 2 ton floor jack I've used for 20 years still works fine so I guess you can't go wrong with that brand. Before you go spend big $ though, check to see who actually makes the jack as I suspect many are made overseas and simply rebadged... B

I don't know the newer Pathy, but here is my take on it. Keep the old pathy since you use it for what it is and get another vehicle to supplement it. It will keep the miles off of it, make it last longer and you can take it off line to put a little $ and love into it so it lasts another 80k miles. A new pathy won't be used as this one is and probably cost a bundle, and you never know what/how deep you buy into with a new fun car. Better the devil you know, eh?? B

No need to yell... This is like what I run, bypassing the stock cooler. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70268/ My gauge rarely hits 180 degrees, but I haven't put it to the test in the summer yet and will probably go with a larger unit. Stick with the 3/4 thick ones, they are much easier to fit. Please understand that this has been much discussed, so a search will turn up all the information you could need. B

That would be a yes. I even went so far as to install a tranny temp gauge inline on the way to the cooler. Not expensive or difficult... B

What is the fluid like? Do you have good flow through the cooler? Do you run the stock cooler or an aftermarket? That said, I often need to give some throttle to get the tranny to kick down... B

I got my Thorley headers through Rocky Roads and got decent service, even having the rep call the factory to find out when they would ship. I had to wait weeks, but that was Thorley, not them. They had a great price too, $406 IIRC. Certainly make your own judgements, but I don't think your experience was necessarily typical. FYI AC has some weird lead/ship times on some prducts too. Unfortunately, off road accessory shopping for Nissans isn't quite like a trip to Safeway... Rugged Rocks is owned by Steeeeevo, an active member here and a great guy who is good to work with, has good prices and actually develops new products. http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/ B

Yep, take some 3/8 UHMW PE sheet, drill holes according to the rear of the front skid pattern, cut it as necessary, heat to bend/cool to set when necessary and find spots/fab mounting points. It takes a little work but very achievable by most people... B

Check out the pat out section, your local JY and Alkorahil (member/parts dealer) in that order. Glad ou got it out and don't mix injector colors (flavors). B

Howdy, we'll leave this here for now, maybe later scooting it to the 2005+ section; you are doing fine. Sorry to hear about the overheating. IIRC that model has an issue with the radiator leaking in between the tranny cooler and coolant cooler sections which degrades cooling and can destroy the tranny so make sure to check that the fluids haven't mixed. I'm sure I read this here so see if you can search for it. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll try. I don't know either of those sites, but I can recommend rockauto.com and they seem to have the same prices, maybe even the same product as your first link... Here is a discount code if you choose to use them... B