Precise1

I drove a D720 with a Z24 for 10 years, theyu are solid, reliable gutless little motors. Good luck with the project, just remember to take your time... B

No problem, it took me about 30 seconds to link it... B

Nope, no one here changes their own belt. Seriously though, if you have some mechanical experience, access to tools and a good place to work and want to learn, you can do it yourself and save a lot of cash at the same time. Read these two threads and ask if there is something you need clarified. You'll need a fair tool selection (wrenches, sockets and goodies, harmonic balancer puller, breaker bar, etc) but it really isn't that hard. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23280 B

I hope you used the discount code found in the Classifieds/Vendor section... B

Dudette... B

I put a beer on it. B

I walked past it, several times... B

I have heard that before also, but can't prove it. There are not a lot though, that is known. They are prized by people with no friends who want the more efficient fuel system. B

It looks a bit uneven top to bottom, but far better than I could do. A good gasket and proper torque will stay sealed, especially when there isn't tremendous back pressure. Permatex copper does wonders also... B

True, but still that is amazing for a dead battery root cause. Maybe it helps with troubleshooting though? 10 codes means the alternator died, 12 codes means the battery can't take a charge, 15 codes means someone stole the battery and 18 codes means you clipped a telephone pole and ripped that section of the car off? B

Take it off (easy) and take it apart. See if the bearing is crunchy; if so, toss it or if not, lube it. Reassemble and install... Take it off when the replacement is in hand, toss it and install the new. It simply comes down how much interest you have and which is worth more, time or $. B

Sorry OP, I don't know that. B

How many miles?? How much have you maintained it? It could be as simple as a clogged cat or as bad as worn rings. A little more info and we may be able to steer you correctly... B

I don't know, I haven't seen good exact pictures but I don't think they are the same other than black and with holes. The Chebby ones slant out to the rim edge, the Cragers are more flat out to the rim and have a double step... B Oh, UNCCP, $211.95 for my set of 5.

What did they fill it with? Dextron3/Mercon is the recommended substitute to the Nissan D-matic or whatever (it changed recently). Could crap have been stirred up from the tranny pan or chunks in the radiator/tranny cooler? It really sounds like a good time to pull the pan, have the filter/screen cleaned/changed, back flush the system and refill it. While it may not be necessary or help, it's a lot cheaper than a new tranny. Before that, download the 1995 FSM (pinned in the Garage section) and follow the AT troubleshooting guide. Personally, I bypass the stock cooler. I run the line into a spin off filter with a sender for a temp gauge and then into an aftermarket cooler. Just saying that I don't trust the stock set up and want to know what is going on... B

I haven't seen or owned them, but BGF makes good products AFAIC. AT KOs on the previous Pathy and MT/KM2 on this one. For lighter off road use, especially in the high desert around Vegas, I suspect that they will do fine, just avoid deep mud. Just saying I doubt they are a bad tire... B

Check you connections and wires, move any as far away from the exhaust manifolds as possible. When you had the starter out, did you flush it out? I used 2 cans of electrical cleaner on mine... B

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LOL That's not a mountain, You just have gophers!! That's called a foothill here... Just kidding Bud. See if you can inspect the balancer by eye for damage (splits/cracks) and see if you can move it when the engine is off. I seriously doubt that is your issue and almost all older vehicles that I have seen have a wobble. Charlie is giving you good advice. Get the multi-meter, download the FSM (pinned in the Garage section) and start doing this methodically. BTW, for both of you, I have had a failing injector that passed the ohm test when cold and failed when hot so do consider that when checking things. They all have two functioning states, cold and static and hot vibrating... B

Evap system with knock sensor?? Check the lines for leaks and the gas cap? B

Its on the list so I'll have to see if it fits in the budget. Thanks for the haeds up, Bud!! B

Timken on my WD21. No problems. I'd argue most bearings will work fine as it is the preload, usage and maintenance (keep greased) that really matters on the life of bearings. In 25 years the only wheel bearings I have had to replace have been when I first buy a vehicle from the PO. B

I'm not exactly sure how that mounts (radiator doesn't not mount to the frame so that is out) but generally they are capable of three things. Brush guard, and that means pushing small branches/brush out of the way, something to mount lights to and damage amplifiers, meaning that any real hit will now damage the grill, hood and both lights. While they do have their place and can be used to nudge a vehicle along (on pavement), do not confuse them with a bull bar, after market bumper or other heavy duty protection. B

Yes, if you have no intent so do any significant lifting or wheeling, aftermarket UCAs would be a waste of $. B

Here is the latest word. You should be able to track him/it down from there, but let me know if you need help. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28967 B