Precise1

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the TI designation, being on the other side of the world and all. What engine/transmission set up does it have? The first thing I would do is check the throttle linkage and throttle plate to make sure nothing is binding, and that it is closing properly/all the way. B

LOL OK, sorry about that as well. Looks to me like a molded rubber piece to support or help reduce vibration. I found this description as well: This Genuine Factory Engine & Trans Mounting fits your 1997 Nissan Pathfinder SE V6 3.3 Liter GAS engine. So that makes more sense now. I'd say that unless it is visually worn, distorted or damaged, it shouldn't matter, and it can always be accessed in the future without removing the tranny anyway. Probably too late by now though... B

So, how did it go? B

No problem, just learning curve and I get the frustration... Yep, R50 is your model designation, years listed above. That is exactly what I was going to recommend! Remove both top bolts and the bottom right one. Just loosen the bottom left and let it pivot toward the front of the vehicle; should give you plenty of room. I'm actually glad you figured it out first and are done, now I can focus on my work... I do see what you mean though, there is very little room between the hard line and the cover... almost touching. I wonder if they changed the part or at least the bend over the model years. I'll have to try to look up part numbers when I have time. Well, that probably depends on who you ask... By all means! B My email isn't shown in my profile under MSN addy?

My email is in my profile, that is fine. I'll just assume you aren't virusing me for all my gold... Sorry, I blew it when I was distracted by refi stuff today. I'll look first thing in the morning. B

That wet spot could be be gear oil as well, if the seal is starting to leak. (I have that on my WD21, but I hope not from a bent shaft) Agreed, it all points to the fact that he could be right. If the brake shoes are wet, it means that tire won't brake well, and if gear oil is leaking, eventually it will not properly lubricate the differential gears. I doubt it is an immediate or unsafe condition under moderate, short term use. but definitely keep an eye on it. Stolen from a recent hawairish post I have no idea what local vehicles have the same axle shafts, but at least you have a type to look for, hopefully the widths aren't different? On the Pathfinders, there is a plate on the firewall under one of the hinges that will tell you axle type, not sure where it is on the others, but couldn't be far off. B

I'm sorry, that didn't translate well. Are you talking about the idle speed? RPM (revolutions per minute) And it is affected by the AC running? I have to assume the system had OBD2 (On Board Diagnostic 2), there there is a plug under the dash for a reader? Has anyone checked that? Yes, if the electrical system is weak, that could be (part of) the problem. B

There is a whole write up on his WD21. He bought it built (no shame in that, got a hell of a deal!), but some off road or racing magazine or site built it up as a tow vehicle IIRC. There is a thread on it here, I just can't recall what to look it up as. It is a long read, but they describe everything they did perfectly. I would have bought it if I had the cash at the time, but we all know how that goes... B

Good call, you are right and I missed that. Maybe a KA? You have to notice though, he is in Australia, and they play by different rules... (why I asked for clarification) Do I have the electrical path described correctly? Pretty sure that is how my '78 VW works, but I haven't messed with that for a while either. It's only a 40 year old design at best... B

OK. Agreed, he just had an oil filter relocate kit in, not an oil pressure gauge. He does now... If you watch the gauge, it'll do it's job. Same with a volt meter, I've had it tell me the alt wasn't charging after I had an oil change done and the tech twit pulled the connector 1/2 way out of the alt. Kept me from being stranded... Funny part was, I was back in 20 minutes and told the owner what happened (on the side, didn't want anything, just giving a heads up to be more careful). He denied left and right, so my voice started to carry, talking about how if my truck wasn't equipped with a meter, or it was a person who didn't know mechanics they'd be stranded, etc. The 1/2 dozen people in the lobby heard it, so I figured my job was done. 6 months later, that shop was gone, so maybe I was right. Yeah, gauges. All vehicles should have them... B

Any 'mall crawler' joke would be appropriate, this is MallCrawler99's R50 we are talking about! What sort of cretin would put Mile Markers on a WD21? Mine has Warn Premiums... (We have both, remember?) It's all good; I hope yours don't look like mine... B

Can you take a picture of exactly where the interference is? I'll pop the hood on my own 1999 and see if I can't something that got missed... Just a FYI though, the guy who did that write up is/was a Nissan Master Tech and I have helped with a timing belt change on a 1996 where we worked around that line, so I'm sure it can be done and I don't really believe that mechanic at the dealership. Like I said, I'll take a good, hard look in just a bit. B

Ok, just to get it straight, you have the Z24 motor, right? I have a Z24 manual I can look into later, but for now... Sorry, but guessing is unacceptable. The points have a rider that contacts the central shaft that the rotor rides on, and that shaft is lobed like a cam. You have to rotate the motor by hand until the points are touching the high point of the lobe (to be as open as possible). That is when you adjust the point gap to the spec, and yes, it has to be very close in order to get the proper spark and timing. You should be able to turn the motor by hand with the ignition on and watch the points fire. Make sure you have spark there first... Did you change the condenser as well (usually done as a set), and make suer all the wires, clips are in the right place. The points should have come with a spot of grease, did you grease the point rider and dizzy shaft? Been a while, but pretty sure the system fires a spark out to the coil when the points open, the coil amplifies it, sends it to the rotor which puts it out to the wire and plug. I don't think you should have 12 volt power full time at the coil, but it has been so long, I'd have to look it up. Check to make sure you have power into the dizzy and that the points are set and firing first. Might want to change the dizzy cap, and perhps the wires as well, but I don't think that is the immediate issue. B

Good answer hawairish! Thank you... B

Are those fittings the swivel type? If so, they are garbage and are probably what is leaking. A few other members have had the same problem, and once we switched to solid, barbed fittings, no leaks... Be careful though, a friend of mine just rebuilt his top end because of an oil leak from his relocation adapter. On his, the o-ring shrunk/degraded enough to permit blowby and he didn't see it until galling/spalling occurred on the lifters. B

Better than what you had before regardless! Thanks for the info, Bud! B

Yes, the first thing I would do. The FSM is available for free download in the pinned thread in the Garage section. We disturbed the connector for the temp sensor on a friend's WD21 (same system). It was idling/warming up and then flat died and wouldn't start until we took the connector apart and cleaned it; runs fine since. Might want to give it a wiggle when it is running to see if there is any effect. Vacuum leaks would be #2, but I suspect if you had one bad enough to stall it out, you'd know... B

I think the only thing you can be sure of with the SE package is the headrests with the holes through them and the lego (alloy) wheels. Bah! It wasn't dead, just napping... B

No problem, we are here to help. Here is a link to the thread I was talking about... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/ B

Please, do not post the same thread all over the place. I understand you need help, but this just confuses the issue. People have been answering you, so I'm going to link your original thread in the R50 section here, and delete the repeat in the general section... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40626-help/?p=760856 B

^x2. There is a good write up in the Garage/How To that has pictures/explanations. You don't have to remove the line... B

Good info, thanks for clearing up that last bit. B

Yes, the parts just want a light coating of bearing grease. Well, none of the parts shown are plastic, just the end caps are IIRC. Nah, I'll clean them off with steel wool or hit them with the wire wheel on my pedestal grinder. If I get really motivated, I might give them a surface treatment with this stuff before I re-grease and re-assemble. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00265322 Well, good, don't complain! Even a minuscule layer of quality grease should rust proof them, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Yeah, if they are the black oxide treated ones, that never lasts without some other barrier. B

The FSM values are 10-14 Ohms. Just saying, because I have been there a few times. Also, sometimes they test properly cold and fail when hot; been there too... B

So, you are a Pervect demon? Robert Asprin? Just random trivia from my cluttered mind... Before you go and remove things, humor me and just try tightening the valve cover screws (bet you they are 1/4-1/2 turn loose). You'll need a long phillips head screw driver, probably 1'+, and a flashlight, but you can get to almost all of them without any real issue. Just tighten them to snug+ and see what you get... Yes, you could manage it, but lets see if you have to first. Nice score on the tool and good job on the modification/wheel bearing tightening as well. Told you it wasn't too hard! Humor me though, and next time you drive 10 miles or so without heavy braking, put your hand on the hub to see how warm it is. Shouldn't be uncomfortable to the touch... Also, when convenient, jack up that corner, grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and push/pull either side oppositely. You are trying to feel if there is any play (that would be the wheel bearings), and it will be evident if there is. I'm sure you did a good job, I'm just the cautious type that likes to double check... B