Precise1

Yeah, it'll need 'repairs first' alright!! Good vid, thanks for sharing! B

Great job Bud! I'm glad you took on the project and it wasn't scrapped. Way too many cars in this country are prematurely scrapped, but that's one less now. B

OBD1, you can read the codes from the ECU; there is a write up in the Garage/How To section. The 94-95 dash is electronic and prone to funkiness. I had a tach fail in my fiirst pathy, I drove without for 3 years, removed it, reinstalled it and it came back to life. Do this, remove the gauge cluster, retighten all the brass screws (loosen then retighten) as they are the ground for all the components (the rear membrane is a circuit 'board' so just be gentle. Also check the connectors for engagement, corrosion, etc. This works about 1/2 of the time... B

Talk to this guy... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/ You are welcome. B

The beauty of these vehicles is that as long as it is reasonably maintained it shouldn't need much attention to make a drive like that, especially with such low mileage. You hit the biggest items, all the fluids. Definitely check the tranny fluid if it is an automatic, make sure the brakes work well and have sufficient wear left, and make sure the wheel bearings aren't loose. I generally travel with emergency items like a gallon of distilled water, some oil and old belts and hoses. The thermostat should be fine, especially in winter. As for tires, where is he going, what exactly is he doing down there or on the way? Most any AT would serve him well and don't get too stuck on the load rating. Consider all the people who use their Pathfinder as a daily driver and wheel it on weekends/trips without changing tires or tire issues. Of course different tires will have stiffer or thicker sidewalls (the two are not always the same), so I suggest you look in the Unofficial Tire Review thread in the Product Review section for info. 3 or 4 spares is overkill, 2 full sized spares is plenty, but I recommend bringing a plug kit and source of inflation. Even out in the middle of no-where you'll see the sign Llanta which is your local tire guy. I've driven well over 3,000 miles on the highways, back roads and beaches of the Baja peninsula and only had one case of punctures (7 in one tire) and one blow out when I caught air and clipped a rock landing at 40mph. As for the timing belt, no, it is almost exactly the same process from 1986.5-2000 other than some time in 93 they went from a square tooth belt to a round tooth belt. Square tooth has a 60,000 mile interval, the round has 105,000 mile. Ok, time to move... B

Cool, you should have enough time to get it done and some to spare. Don't hesitate to ask if you run into any snags or uncertainties, the timing belt is best only done once... B Oh, I deleted the technical mishap...

They should be just fine. My duration was only a week, but absolutely no issues. I've done something like that a few times myself so don't feel bad. Invest in an automatic center punch and a carbide scribe and don't make that mistake again. B

Beautiful country up there. LOL Glad you found it. Let me know if you need any more info... B

I thought it was in the Garage/How To: Installing a body lift type thread, but... I'll find it tomorrow and post the link. The less wheeling you do the less ball joint angle will be an issue, up to a point realistically. Occasional snow (Tahoe?) really shouldn't cause problems. B

^understatement! I have a 2 inch lift installed and recommend you don't worry about the .5" of difference. If you can't get past it, you could have someone turn down the blocks on a lathe (or mill), but again I see no reason to do so. Be warned though, I punched 2 holes in my chassis with bolts that were longer than needed (came with the 2 inch lift) by the passenger foot area. I documented all of this in the lift install thread. Let me know if you can't find it and I'll try. Do you do a lot of wheeling? If not, at 2" you shouldn't have an issue with the ball joints... B

It is part of the directions, but how long to keep it in is often debated, much less if it is wise to add solvents to the crankcase. B

Or injector, depends what the failure mode is. I know you can have injectors tested, but depending on price... B

Pull the plugs and compare them, the black and/or wet one(s) are the issue. Running rich might have fouled your O2 sensor, and you might be able to 'clean' it with a torch like 88pathoffroad did. B

Pull one off of Kyle's Pathy, the diff is already out of the way. JK, sounds like it's time to post in the parts wanted and monitor and part out threads. B

Are they saying that they can't remove or drill out a few corroded screws? I do appreciate that they didn't want to risk putting your vehicle out of commission but to say a broken screw=$700 part seems pretty lame to me. If it stops raining, I'll go out and take a look at our R50 to see what the big deal is. When the time comes, I'll walk you through dealing with them if it comes to that. B

Where did they get the info? I don't know about it personally, just making observations. B

*cough* Less ability required... I don't Wrok Krawl so gas, clutch and handbrake does what I want. I prefer the MT for better reliability and vehicle control. I'll set the shift points, thanks... B

Amazing how bad those rods/bushings can be inside without showing it from the outside, especially in salt country! I'll state my conviction that these should nbe a regular maintenance item every 60k miles. Luckly, they aren't bad to deal with if you catch them in time. With a little luck this will make the difference for you. B

You have exotic failures. B

Really? I wonder why, I see a lot of them around here and most have been modified or accessorized at the least. They seem pretty popular... At this point, I'd be surprised if the Xterra got the axe, it's their only remaining vaguely SUV. Unless they have something else in store? I'd jump on almost anything Nissan that has solid axles and locker selection. Diesel and MT would make it heaven! B

These two come to mind right off the bat. Agreed, they should have dropped the Pathfinder name and called it the X-Rover or something else equally stupid. B

A minivan with a locker that has 5000lb towing capacity. It'll probably sell to families in snow country, probably mom's car... B

I've not seen a loose one, but I know there is a write up on changing them. I can't believe that it is from you swinging it back and forth, it must be that it isn't fully constrained when latched and the vibration is what is loosening things up. That is where I would start... B

A lot of people have that size mounted so no, you shouldn't have any issue. 1" spacing is not much so it shouldn't matter either. I have a 31" tire on a steel rim mounted and plan to add a 20 liter can and hi-lift jack as well. B

Exactly. What condition are your cap/rotor/wires in? I had a strange stumble in my first pathy and it was because the center electrode in the dizzy cap was gone; it was arcing down to the rotor. Stumbled at low rpm, ran fine about 2000rpm up. You might want to check the TPS output also. Don't borrow trouble yet, it could still be something minor. When it was hydrolocked, did it gulp water and outright die or did it just sip and stumble? B