vengeful

Is there any way to make the thread go to the first unread post automatically, instead of pointing to the first post when I click on it from the subforum index?

Yes, 6 on 5.5. In fact, all Nissan trucks (except for the New 05s) are 6x5.5.

Yes, indeedy, had them for some time now actually, just got around to coating them and getting ready to install them tomorrow evening...WOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! I still hate you Pezzy...I wanted that bumper BAD! LOL.... 10.9 Grade??? I was figureing that Grade 8 would be sufficient, and that was the strongest I saw at Home Depot...Where would I go about getting Grade 10.9 bolts? Edit...just read that 10.9 Class is the same as Grade 8...you confused me!

I would also love to "annex" his truck for a day and just go have some fun....I've always loved the 2-doors, and his is extra-special... :bow:

Wow man, you've been busy! Good work, I like the new setup a lot! Took me a sec to realize what happened.

Glad to see this section opened up. Keep up the good work man.

I knew you would know! Thanks Marcel!

I've got the front completely off and the rear has bad links (so it doesn't do much good), on my 99. I did notice a slight increase in body roll during panic maneuvers, but it is not to the point where I wouldn't feel comfortable driving the truck 75mph on the interstate. At one point, I had taken the rear completely off, and the body roll increased a little bit. It wasn't to the point where I was scared, but it would definitely have taken some getting used to, and I wasn't used to it after a couple of days, so I put it back on. (This was before the links went bad...currently the body roll is about halfway between where it was with good links and where it was without the sway on at all...right where I like it!). I must say though, without the swaybars, the truck rides a lot smoother, and bumpsteer was reduced dramatically. I also get a lot more articulation out of the front. I know what you're thinking..."Front flex on a Nissan? Go on!!"...but I'm serious, I can max out the compression on one side and the droop on the other. Before, with the sway in place, I could only get about 2-3" of independent travel, now I get full articulation...it's WONDERFUL...ALSO, my struts don't seem to top out as much without the swaybar as they did with it... So...if anyone wants a swaybar for an R50, I've got one sitting in my garage collecting dust...and it will continue to collect dust forever...hehe.

I've been seeing a pretty consistent 16mpg recently. That generally equates to about 230-240 miles before the "idiot light" starts to flicker on downhill grades at red lights. (At that point, the truck will take 16.5-17 gallons, I have a 21.3 gallon tank according to my manual, but I've never managed to get more than 19.4 in it...).

Congrats... I've already noticed some changes for the better going on...keep it up Aaron!

Anyone? Anyone? Beuller? Beuller? :help:

Does anyone happen to know the length, diameter and thread pitch of the step rail bolts? TIA.

You actually want to lock them before you engage 4wd inside the cabin. At least that's the way I've been doing it for 2 years...if it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?

The Surco racks are garbage. They are aluminum, and simply cannot withstand very much weight in them. Since you have a MIG Welder, you might want to consider getting some 1" steel square stock and fabbing your own.

When I moved back up to school last fall, I had a Uhaul 6x12 trailer fully loaded, and my Pathy full loaded to the ceiling, and stuff on the roof, and my bikes off the back. Out of curiosity, I stopped at a scalehouse, and I tipped the scales at 10,280 lbs. And my little VG33 managed to get me there without a problem. Didn't overheat or anything. I am more and more impressed with my truck every single day, and I've had it for 3 years and 65,000 miles!

They replace the full time drive flanges that exist on your truck. They work by turning the "face" of it to lock in the hub. When the hubs are locked, it is basically like running as stock, but you can opt to unlock them to disengage the front drivetrain.

I say go for it, but be aware of a few things that will arise from lifting it. These are in regards to the 2" (advertised) lift (I got 3"F and 3.5"R): Firstly, your front struts WILL top out going over bumps. This WILL NOT cause any significant problems, it is more of an annoyance than anything. But it will scare the living crap out of you the first time it happens, and you'll turn around and go right back to the shop and be like WTF! :confused: I've had my lift on for 50,000 miles, and the struts are just now starting to feel like they're wearing out. I'll likely have to replace them in about 10,000 miles...KYB's estimated useful life for them is ~60,000 miles anyways. I think that I've gotten a great amount of life out of them considering how and where I drive my truck. Secondly, your CV axles will be at a more extreme angle, and this will expedite the wear on the boots. To alleviate this, I HIGHLY suggest getting the Warn Manual locking hubs to replace your full time drive flanges. With the warn hubs unlocked, and the t-case in 2wd, you have the entire front driveline disengaged, and nothing is turning. This in turn creates less wear on the front end driveline parts, and will give you a slight increase in fuel economy. (I saw about a 1.5-2mpg increase). I did not install the manual hubs immediately, and regret not doing so, because I had to replace both CV axles at the same time, to the tune of $200. Thirdly, since the 2" AC coils are not any longer than the factory coils, but are simply a higher spring rate, the ride of your truck will change completely. I love the way my truck rides now. Before I lifted it, it felt like a station wagon, now it feels like a truck should. It will ride stiffer, and the suspension will be a lot firmer. Stock, you can fit 31x10.50" tires on your factory rims. With the lift, I had no problems fitting 32x11.50x15" tires on 15x8" rims with 3.75" Backspacing. In order to fit 32s, you MUST get new wheels with a backspacing of no more than 4", otherwise, the tires will not clear the strut. Finally, nothing can be better than the looks you get driving a newer Lifted Pathfinder with big mud-tires...I LOVE IT! I say DOO EET!!!

Nissan recommends 3 7/8 with filter change, and 3 3/8 without. I usually just put in 3 3/4, close enough for government work, and the truck seems happy with it.

You absolutely DO NOT want to use alcohol to clean it prior to applying Herculiner. The Herculiner will not bond to the surface after it has been cleaned with a product containing ammonia or alcohol. They recommend using Xylene, but Acetone works as well.

Yeah, Coal Creek was a hell of a way to celebrate....I didn't have any porcelain gods to look on me at all, so, it ended just fine!....I didn't touch Nate's Tequila.....*cough* Ryan *cough*....

I hate you so much....

Other than the different motors, the only difference between the two is they changed the geometry of the rear suspension to allow the shocks to be directly vertical, instead of at a slight angle. If you're looking at a 1999, instead of a 1999.5 (newer body style (same as the 2001), then there are quite a few differences, however they are all cosmetic. Some newer models have a knob for the 4wd instead of a lever. Between the two vehicles, there isn't really a distinct advantage to go with the newer one except for the engine. I'd probably go with the 99 due to the price. Also, I'm a little biased cuz I have a 99...haha.

I've decided that I want to coat part of my truck, and I'm debating between Line-X and Rhino Liner. Has anyone had Line-X applied? How much did it cost? Same for Rhino Liner. What are the differences, besides being spray on and roll on. Etc....

I just ordered a set of those. I'll let you guys know in a couple weeks...

I personally like the Brakleen Flame Thrower to eliminate wasps.....