vengeful

What do you mean by sway? If you mean increasing body roll, I have not noticed any real increase in body roll, but you have to remember that the COG is higher and you can't take curves as fast. If you mean, bobbing, then it shouldn't. If you have a problem with bobbing and weaving, then it's your control arm bushings.

So, this afternoon I went out to my truck to go to Sam's Club to buy a Microwave cuz my $10 Goodwill microwave took a dump on me, and I notice that my fender looks a little funny....On closer inspection, I see a HUGE dent in the bumper, and it's all rippled up. Now it's pushed back about 2-3" and rubs the tire like a mofo. I can only imagine that some drunk bastard hit it Friday night, and left. I found a bunch of broken taillight/turn signal pieces around my truck, and gathered them up in case I find a car with a busted out tailight that I can match up the pieces with... Anyways, I took a few pictures, but they don't really do the damage justice, and the estimate was for $552.79, so there's really no point in going thru insurance since I have a $500 deductible, and it would raise my rates significantly. I guess I'm just going to trim back the plastic crap that's rubbing on the tire and start saving for a TJM... Then, my antenna broke, and wont retract or extend. On to the pics... They're big, so I'll just link to the parent directory and you can view them that way. http://www.niora4x4club.com/dan/drunk

On my SE, the weheel size was stamped on the isnside of the wheel...."J7 x 15" Meaning 15x7"....yours should have some sort of marking too....if not, the XE wheels are 15x6....they reccomeent that you dont mount a tire more than 4" wirder than the weel, b/c they don't want to cause a protential hazardd.... im sorry for the horrible spelling and grammer, but i been doin a little drinky drinky tonight...so yeh....

Light's come and gone twice since my last post. However, my gas mileage is back up to the 17-18mpg range :eek: That's higher than it's been in a LONG time. Anyways...the power loss is still present, but not quite as bad, and the SES light is on again. I'm going to go to AAP tomorrow and get the code run. If its the same one, I'm going to go ahead and fix the O2 sensors. Bank 2 is the "right" side right?

You can either get the good one from the dealer, or the half-way decent one from any Auto Parts store. It will be listed under Nissan Pickups 98-02, and Pathfinder 96+....the main title of the book is Nissan Pickups, it's made by Hayne's. That's the one I have, and it's done me well so far.

Ross, Do yourself a favor and buy a service manual for your truck. You'll be able to do things you wouldn't even normally consider doing otherwise. I do almost everything to my truck, with the exception of the stuff that can kill me, I leave that to the "pros." As for the front bumper, it's not difficult to remove, just a bit of a pain. There are lots of little bolts in hard to reach places. Just get a manual, and take your time. The TJM goes on a lot easier than the factory bumper comes off. Also, if you're installing a winch, you should do so before you install the bumper, that way, you'll only have to mount it once. The hardest part about mounting/removing the bumper is the bulkiness of it. The TJM weighs a good deal more than the plastic factory one, so be ready for that. You might want to have someone there to help you support it while you line it up and bolt it on. (Whoa, I just ended a sentence with a prepositiion!) This is not from my personal experiences, but from what I've read from other people. Hope this helps. Good luck with the install, and (me giving you the finger) for getting a TJM before me! I kid, I kid! I wish I had the money to buy one...

A couple days ago, I got the codes erased with one of those Fancy Shmancy OBDII Scantool jobbers they have at AutoZone. I should really get one....anyways, I'm off-topic. Not even an hour later, the SES light came back on. Got it scanned again, same codes. Figured, what the hell, I'll just spring for em, and buy the O2 Sensor and replace it over break, it's only like $60-100.... But then, tonight, the SES light mysterious turned itself off and the power came back! My truck has this weird thing about fixing itself....shrug. Oh well, I'm not going to fix it, since the truck decided it's not broken anymore! If the light comes back, then, maybe I'll fix it...lol.

Thanks BJ....just what I was lookin for!

Just like the topic states, I'm thinking of getting one of those BugFlector thingers, but I want to see some pics first. Preferably without a brush guard. TIA

I saw them on a Pathy once, and thought they were absolutely hideous. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't do that to my truck. However, it's your truck, and your money. He's not kidding about the 3D factor. The round parts above the lights stick out a good 2" or more.

Advance Auto Parts does free checking too. And they give you a printout with an explanation of the codes, not just the code numbers.

Another idea. They make this UV die that you can put in your fluids to check for leaks. If you can find some that is oil safe, put it in, and go another thousand to 1500 miles, and check it with a UV light....that will tell you EXACTLY where it's coming from. Might cost you a little bit of money, but it will track it down for ya.

An abused vehicle you say? Is there any indication that the valves are clicking? Look from the top down the engine, you might be able to get a better look at it.... Or even put on a white rubber glove and run your finger slowly down the side of the block (WHILE COLD!!!) until you feel or see oil on the glove. That should give you an indication as to where it's leaking from. Since it was an abused vehicle, it may very well be leaking from the valve cover gaskets. I'd be hard pressed to believe that it would be the headgasket because the oil would be more milky, as you would have coolant contamination, and your engine would run like crap. Also, could be the cam seals. 85k is early for the timing belt, but as you say, it was abused, so it may have some excessive premature wear on it. Just some things to look at. I hope you get this resolved quickly so you don't get those nasty oil spots on the ground!

Well...I've already replaced every component of my EVAP system to no avail....and there are no adverse affects of the EVAP codes that I can notice, so I'm just ignoring them. I'll try to clear the codes and see what happens. Thanks for the advice. You don't think it could be the cat?

I'd be down for a black and a grey, XL. I'd be MORE than willing to give a little extra to help further the community. As for the overages, I think we should send it all at once to Jim with a little card "signed" by everyone who bought a shirt....maybe like a Holidays theme type thing and thanking him for all he's done....would be a nice gesture. (By signed, I mean the screen names of everyone would be listed.... Oh, and I'd be willing to pay slightly more for a higher quality product as well....I know for a fact that I'm going to be wearing this shirt A LOT!

I'd say pretty bad. Notice the Scion in the foreground of the garage picture...hehe. I saw that on Pirate a while back. I think the only thing that's still Nissan on it is the body. :X

I've been debating whether or not to post this for a couple days, but I've been getting mixed answers from mechanics and other boards. So I'll try here and see if I can either confirm or deny any of the previous answers I've received. Somewhere in PA along my 400 mile drive from DC to Rochester, I noticed that my truck started to act kinda funny. The Torque Converter was unlocking and revving the engine up on very slight hills. I thought to myself, "that's odd, it wasn't doing that earlier." This was about 1/4 way through a tank of gas. I thought, "Oh well, must be bad gas, I'll just run it out and fill up with good gas later." Then about 50 miles later, the SES light comes on. Oh great! Well...I got about 200 miles out of that tank of gas, compared to my average of 270-280, and got 200 miles out of my last tank as well, and am on pace to only get about 200 or less out of this one. I'm at 50 miles and its down 1/4. Anyways, when I got into Rochester, I stopped at Advance Auto Parts (luckily they're open till 9 on Sundays now!), and had the codes run. They came back as my usual EVAP codes which did not concern me because they've never affected me in almost 40,000 miles of having them as my truckmates. But there was one more code on the list that really got me stirring. O2 Sensor, Bank 2, Sensor 2, No Activity. Now, I know this is not good. Decrease in gas mileage, power loss, and an O2 sensor code is never a good combination. Basically what I'm asking for is your suggestions as to what might be the cause. Here's how the truck sits currently: 81.5k miles. I had the post-cats replaced at 51,000 miles because they said they were faulty. However, I have my doubts as to whether they were really replaced or whether or not they were actually faulty and the shop just wanted more of my money. The shop stated that they were rattling internally and the housings were "comprimised." I have the Jim Wolf Tech Pop-Charger air intake (which I cleaned about 2 days before the trip), and a Flowmaster 40-Series exhaust. I'm running NGK Platinum spark plugs. Now, a few questions. I've been running the JWT for about 40,000 miles, and have never had a problem with it, I have cleaned it every 10,000 miles to keep it at max efficiency. Could cleaning it this last time have allowed too much sediment into my engine and clogged up the cats? I've heard of this happening with K&N intakes, but never with the JWT. Another question, could the gas I had purchased (It was some mom & pop joint in the middle of nowhere, PA) have caused my truck to run either too lean or too rich, and thus blown out the cats? I have yet to bring the truck in to a shop for diagnosis or repair as of yet, because I was waiting on some third-party opinions, but they seem to be contradicting. So far, as explanations, I've heard: Fried ECM, Fried O2 Sensor, Fried Circuitry for the O2 sensor, clogged Cat, Blown Cat. I tend to disbelieve the fried ECM because the truck wouldn't run properly without it. I tend to disbelieve the fried O2 sensor because the code wouldn't have come up as No Activity, it would have been an O2 Sensor Malfunction code....Now....your turn. What do you think? Thanks in advance. Sorry for the essay, I just wanted to make sure you have all the information you could possibly want or need regarding this issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Humm....I'm starting to get a VERY slight shimmy in my steering wheel as well....never even considered the struts. I wouldn't tend to think it would be my struts, because they're only about 40,000 miles old. BUT, on the other hand, I do have a susp. lift, and I do tend to be hard on my truck off-road. I'll look into it.

Does it only happen when the vehicle is in motion? Or does it happen when you're at a stop as well? Has your alignment recently come out of spec? Is it a single clunk, or a repetitive clicking? If it is a repetitive clicking, it may very well be a torn CV boot. A list of possible causes, others can probably chime in more or eliminate a few: Loose lug nuts (I had this problem once.) Torn or missing CV boot. Worn or dead Tie Rod Ends or broken tie rod. Worn out or dead suspension or sway bar bushings.

There are a few documented issues with the 01 6-disk changer, however, I am not very familiar with them or their solutions. Hopefully someone with a little more experience in this area can help you. If all else fails, it's a good excuse to get an aftermarket system with satellite radio.

In order to get you an answer, I have to ask a few questions myself. How many miles are on it? Has the timing belt been replaced yet (if 100k+)? How fast would you say it's leaking? 1qt per week? Month? 3 months? Have you checked around the oil plug or filter for evidence of a leak? How long has it been since you had the oil changed? Did you do it yourself or bring it someplace? How long would you estimate it's been leaking? Sorry for all the questions, but you were a little unclear on the details in your original post. Hopefully with the answers to these questions, we can help you.

Trialsin, I know some aftermarket alarm systems can be made to do that. I don't know if the factory one can, but you could always check with a shop that does alarm work to find out for sure.

The only issues I've had that I can even remotely attribute to my lift are CV boots wearing out too soon. But if you do what I did and buy pair of lifetime CV axles, then thats the last set of axles you'll ever buy. However, you might have to replace them a few times, but no biggy. Also, I do have the strut topping out "problem," however, it is more of a minor annoyance than a problem, and a good way to get your passengers to STFU. hehehe. The only other thing I can think of is my sway bar bushings are shot, but I have no reason to directly attribute that to my lift. I think it is a combination of me beating on my truck off-road, salt damage from the harsh winters, and age. I can't blame it at all on my tires, because they were worn out even before I got the 32s... I say, if you're serious about off-roading, and you are not satisfied with your trucks clearance (not the performance) then go for it. If you don't need any more clearance, but want better performance, I suggest getting a locking or limited slip differential, and/or upgrading your tires, if you have not already done so, to off-road type tires. Hope this helps.

No. There was never a Gibson exhaust for our trucks. I do believe the HKS has been discontinued due to lack of demand, but they occasionally pop up on eBay. Your best (i.e. cheapest) route would be to buy a performance muffler and get piping made. I'm running a 40-Series Flowmaster Delta Flow muffler (forget the model #) with custom bent aluminized piping and it's great.

I'm at 82k, now and I haven't had any problems that weren't the shops fault, or my own stupidity. Stripped drain plug off in oil pan. Replaced free. Replaced axle, and didnt reinstall hubs properly, broke my hubs. Replaced free. Defective cats. Replaced free. Fried alternator. Mud. Replaced with Quest for $30. But now, I have an 02 sensor code and a power loss. Really need to get it checked out soon. Once I get that fixed, she should be good for another 150-200k. Oh yeah, and some wierd electrical thing. The truck sudenly died on me in an intersection, and then nothing would happen....no radio, no heat, nothing. $780 worth of diagnosis/labor later, there was nothing wrong, and it worked fine. Never acted up since. I chalk it up to the truck hating Rochester....