vengeful

:eek: Hell, for a PROTOTYPE..TEST VEHICLE, they should do it FOR FREE or for DIRT CHEAP...just goes to show you what kind of business SLR is in. I have never been a very big fan of SLR, but they do make really nice stuff. However, $8,000 for a prototype lift is just ridiculous. :eek:

1.) Depending on the yard and your location, and the condition of the bumper, it could range anywhere from about $50-$200 or so. Shop around. Try http://www.car-part.com 2.) Yes, it is very possible, with proper preparation, to paint over the chrome trim, and have it not look crummy. Be sure you use plastic paint on plastic surfaces and regular paint on metal surfaces. Also, take your time masking, and mask a lot more than you think you'll need, as there will be about a 3-4' radius of overspray. Trust me. That's why there's primer on my driver's front fender. pssd 3.) To shave the license plate holes, I would use the bondo hole filling kit. It comes with a small metal mesh that you place behind the hole and then use the bondo to cover it up. It works very well and was apparently used to shave the side markers on my VW. If you do a good job with it, and are very careful, it can come out looking factory.

Yeah, that's cool. I'm not really sure if I like the tribal tails though....gotta let that simmer a bit..

Timing belt is due at 105,000 miles (or 160,000 KM). Even though some people have gotten away with it for much longer, I shouldn't have to suggest that you DO NOT put it off. The VG/VQ engines are an interference engine, and if that timing belt lets go, your entire head/valvetrain are going to be torn to shreds. PathfinderPhil recently had the t-belt go on his CamoPath, and the entire top end of the engine was FUBAR. Do it ASAP. If you were to have the dealer to the recommended work, it would probably run you about $1200-1400, but you can have it done for about half that at a reputable shop. When you do the timing belt, you should also replace: Water Pump Cam Seals Gaskets All Fluids And, if you're planning on getting cam gears or replacing the cams, this would be a good time to do it, so you'll only have to fiddle with the timing once. HTS. By the by, I'm currently at ~95,000 and I'm already gathering the required bits and pieces to get the timing belt done before I return to school this Fall.

STAY AWAY FROM THE PACESETTERS!!!!! They don't fit worth a crap.

I get them done at the 30,000 mile intervals, and the T-belt one (105,000). Otherwise, all they involve is the typical fluid changes and inspecting a whole bunch of stuff.

Hey, you'd better tack a few more on there! I just went on a little whoring spree.

Nymex Crude $56.90; $ change -.42; % change -.73; time 13:22

Anyone who has more than 200 posts in the whore thread should get one for free.

Jeeeeeezzzzuuuuusssss.... What the crap just happened? Friday it was $2.16 - which is fine. Saturday it was $2.38 - which I was like..Umm..what just happened? And Yesterday (Monday), REGULAR was $2.73 :eek: and the gas station I fill up at closed down, and their pumps were being removed last night. IN THREE FREAKIN DAYS THE PRICE JUMPED ALMOST FREAKIN 50 CENTS A GALLON, WHAT THE HELL?? :furious: Though, I did see it at $2.42 this morning. What is going on?

I've got the 3" lift from AC with stock length rear shocks, and have never once topped them out. The struts, that's another story, but the rear shocks are fine. Could it be that something is loose?

That looks really nice Trainman...how much do they run? Do you know if you can get one with a fiberglass handle?

Also, a lot of new stuff is stolen, too! You really have to be careful. Even though the seller looks reputable, provides a phone number, and is willing to discuss the item with you, still doesn't mean its not stolen. And generally, if this is the case, the seller does not know the item was stolen when he/she purchased it.

The V-belts tend to stretch a small amount over time... Might want to try to adjust the tension and see if that helps...but don't get it too tight or you'll snap it. -thnkboutit-

Yeah, check the manifolds for cracking and loosening of the bolts. Also, your catalytic converter (well, one of them anyways), may have failed and one of the matrix screens is flopping around in there.

I'm still bitter.

Unless you're planning on going with a D60, keep the H233b. The H233b is actually stronger than the D44, and does not have as large of a pumpkin. The axleshafts have a higher spline count (which adds to strength), the R&P (Ring and Pinion gears) also have a higher tooth count than a standard D44. If you were to get a D44, you would have to rebuild it anyways with higher spline axles, different gears to match your front end, and you'd be spending more than it would cost to regear and lock your H233b anyways. My suggestions to you would be: REBUILD existing engine (if it's not blow'd up) (nevermind, you already bought the new engine, d'oh!) -thnkboutit- Transmission overhaul transmission cooler (if auto) complete fluid change all around upgraded alternator SL BL L&P Steering solution BlackPanther skidplates OX Rear Locker 33x12.50x15 Mud-terrain tires on 15x8" wheels. fix any body damage fix any rust rear tire carrier roof rack stereo alarm And that should be about your 5k right there.

Would you be nuts? Yes, but then you wouldn't be a Pathfinder owner!

You will be very happy with that combination. The REVO's are excellent tires, and the OME lift will not sacrifice roadability as much as the AC Lift does (and that doesn't even sacrifice roadability that much if you stay with 31s/265s). Also, with the OME system, you don't have to worry about the side-effects of the AC Lift (struts topping out, CVs wearing out, etc, but that's all part of the poison we choose.) I say go for it, you WILL NOT regret it.

See, Pezzy, thats where most people, and I differ. I probably would have just stuck him in his big mouth. :X

Hahahah!

Oh, so you're at the end point, not the start point? :idea:

Sounds like rookiebuilder...hahaha.

I've had better luck than that. Especially if you post in their message boards. I was trying to purchase something from a seller (we'll call the seller ID Bob because I don't remember it) who was shill bidding with an ID Bob2. I reported this to eBay...didn't hear back from them at all, but both accounts were suspended indefinitely. I didn't win the item, because I caught on to what he was doing, so I didn't bid any higher after Bob2 outbid me a second time. First time, it may have been coincidence, but when you get outbid twice within an hour of placing your bid...it's a little suspicious.

Echo Valley is nice. I've stayed there once before...we usually just camp at RC, it's free with admission. The invitation to check out the post is open to you, too Pezzy. Details will not be divulged until the official announcement.