Kingman

But for longevity... 207K on the running gear or 74K? And oh yeah, 3.3L all the way!

Wow, the interior on that looks to be in perfect shape. The driver's seat isn't even ripped! Score! Now, can I have them? Good luck with the project man. I would keep the '95 and swap all the parts you want on to it to be honest. It's in great shape and only 74K...it's still practically new mechanically.

Hmmm. Yeah at 150F the computer goes in to closed loop mode and starts taking readings from the various sensors, mainly the O2 sensor. Before that it's not a part of the system. I believe in open loop cold start, the computer takes a reading from the ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor and Fuel Temperature Sensor to get a "baseline" for the cold idle enrichment. TPS shouldn't be an issue with cold weather, it's only a 3-way switch for idle, half throttle, and full throttle. I would check your cap and rotor in the morning to see if there's any condensation inside or a little hairline crack anywhere. Definitely wiggle your MAF wiring around a bit as well to see if it changes anything. It may also help to clean it with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, or actual MAF cleaner. Oh and if that stuff is flammable, don't spray it in to the air box before the sensor unless you want your engine compartment on fire...

Not the gauge sensor, the ECM Coolant Temperature Sensor. There are two different sensors. It tells the computer how warm the engine is and the computer interprets that as how much fuel to deliver. It's a problematic sensor, and can easily disable a truck in a hurry. This sensor went out on my '87 I had, it used over a half a tank of gas in 14 miles and would barely run when it completely failed. The MAF is the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

Lol, I spent an entire day driving around my town to exhaust shops looking for that gasket. It was for a transmission job and I didn't have time to wait for mail. The gasket ended up being one that was really similar, but I had to wallow out the hole a bit.

You got it.

It's the vent.

Quite a few people on Z31performance.com have gotten this email too.

Well you'd be pretty hard pressed to blow the bottom end of the Z24 out. The Z24 and KA are basically an L-series with a different head, and L-series bottom ends don't blow up. I have one in my '76 pickup that's got 400K miles on it and has had a very hard life towing stuff that was intended for a 3/4 ton pickup. You could probably build a KA24DE to make decent power if boosted but they aren't that torquey of a motor which is what an SUV needs. I'm fairly sure the bell housing is the same between the KA and Z24, and the KA head *I think* bolts on to the Z24 block.

You could probably buy the Pathfinder, swap engines, and part it out to make most of your money back.

Do either of you have the factory CD changer?

Yeah. Pathfinder heaters kick ass when everything is correct. Mine gets hot enough to burn the tips of my fingers if I hold them against the vents.

Thanks for the help man. I unplugged the deck from power while holding the reset button on the back down to set everything back to factory. I still have no idea what numbers translate to. :lol; I found out that all of the audio settings are saved on a non-power memory chip, so if it loses power nothing besides the station presets are lost.

I've had my Alpine CDA-7878 deck for a few months now and absolutely cannot figure out what all of the adjustment values mean. It's got a full band equalizer to adjust cross over, time correction, frequency slopes, octaves, etc. I have the manual for it, which tells you how to adjust them, but not what all of it means. I don't know how to translate the fancy 20-200Hz or 6, 12, 18, 24Db in to treble, mid, or bass. The diagrams in the manual have all these graphs with lines and slopes, stuff I don't understand at all. There is a big fat warning to not set the equalizer to FLAT because it will damage the speakers, which is fine because it sounds like ass anyways. At the moment I've played with the numbers and adjustments so much that it sounds really tinny and echoey, then kind of distorts the highs. I want a nice sharp, clear, rich, full sound. I want enough treble so it's crystal clear, not too much midrange but enough, and the bass to be almost non existent through the speakers. Right now there's no bass going to the speakers because it's all being picked up by my subwoofer. It would be nice if it had the simple adjustments for treble, mid, and bass. But no. Of course I'm the one who had to have the $850 for $75... Can anyone whose messed with this type of stuff give me a general idea of what specific values to set in order to make it produce good sound? Thanks in advance.

I would like to point one thing out... if the crank pulley has been removed before and not set on properly, No. 1 TDC will not occur when the furthest left 0 degree timing mark is aligned with the arrow. I made this mistake and spent almost 4 hours trying to figure out why the engine wouldn't run and how I was managing to get the timing 180 degrees out sometimes. Double check the crank pulley by removing the No. 1 plug and making sure the piston is at the top of it's travel.

I'm not sure how high of a risk it is on a Pathfinder specifically but if any VG is starved it's pretty much done for. I can't really imagine a Pathfinder being capable of extreme acceleration or braking and cornering G forces. It would be interesting to see what really has to be done to starve the engine... Mr. 510 drifts his Pathfinder in the snow and wheels it hard at some pretty interesting angles. I don't think he'd be doing that if there was a big chance of problems.

Way before our time, back when you had to change types of oil every season because they were all straight grades.

When you put the distributor in, did you line the dimple on the gear up with the little arrow on the housing while the engine was at No. 1 TDC and make sure the rotor was facing somewhat towards the No. 1 plug contact?

Did someone play a joke on you and lock one in?

Oil starvation is a huge problem with VGs, especially in Z31s and track cars. The oil sloshes to one side, the sump picks up air bubbles and circulates that around the bearings, and kills them almost instantly. Also. If under hard braking, corners, or steep inclines/declines your oil light flickers/pressure gauge dips drastically you've just done serious damage to the engine.

I'm tellin' ya, you're going to hate all the emissions crap on that! I've got an ass load of wiring schematics that were copied from Mitchell manuals at the library. I also have the downloaded '84 300ZX FSM and used a combination of 3 sets of schematics to sort everything out. I had Mr.510 get a copy of the ECCS schematics from his brother who works at Nissan.

The DE motors must have the larger clutch then, I do know the SOHC motors have a smaller assembly than a Pathfinder. They are the same size as the KAs and Z24s. A competition clutch will accommodate the power of the motor you are swapping in, as will the transmission (300ZX people upgrade to a Pathfinder 30A transmission) and rear end.

The CV axles won't make any noise unless the 4wheel drive is engaged and the axles are spinning. There could be a chance that an auto hub is stuck engaged and turning an axle. CVs do click, when rotating and the steering is turned, if they're bad.

It will handle the power of the engine easily. Get a competition clutch. and the diameter of the flywheel and clutch plate is larger on a Pathfinder than it is on a 300ZX.

Lol thank man. One thing about the Z stuff though, they do have a little bit of an appetite for fuel injectors. I lost the number 1 cylinder injector not too long ago and in replacing it I messed something up pretty good because it sputters and kicks under load from 1/4 throttle and up. It all just seems to fall apart and it's annoying. I swapped distributors before replacing the injector, I think the problem lies there. There's something about the way the Mitsubishi and Hitachi distributors are that makes setting them in a little different. I think I just got the dizzy a tooth off. I'm going to spend another day tomorrow going through everything.