Kingman

Jesus did Ford steal the fan from a semi truck for those things?

Wonder what it does unplugged? I run mine without a TPS/and misadjusted for a few days and there was barely any difference.

Master cylinder probably.

first thing I noticed! I wonder if they would cover my Pathfinder. Its all Nissan but, uh... not exactly stock.

That's a very big deal. Guy on here not too long ago had one snap on him, which if the rod is rubbing on the frame enough it'll wear it thin and that will happen. You need new bushings. Maybe new rods, and 4 new bearing cups to locate the bushings.

Compression rod is what goes from the rear of the LCAs to the frame, it'll screw a lot up when the bushings are bad. Common problem that can be disastrous.

Water pump and timing belt aren't even connected. Its not a Honduh

Upper Control Arm, what the shock is hitting.

Make sure the UCA hasn't moved back on the bushings. Had that problem on my last truck, being broke I just ground a little notch in the arm to clear the new shock instead of putting new bushings in.

Downfall is you lose the instant off idle torque.

Kyle make sure your wheel bearings don't just need a clean, lube, and adjustment.

Guy's an idiot, take your business elsewhere...

Well I tell you what. I have a receipt from 1991 from a Shucks, now O'Reilly, for a starter for a 620. Along with it are exchange receipts for just about every year after that. That lifetime warranty gives them an excuse to make crappier parts because they know people will just take them back and get a new one. It doesn't show pride in their parts, its just a way to lure people in. The NAPA starter in my '88 has been in there for at least 6 years and I've driven it around with the starter maaaany times.

I wouldn't be surprised if the other side is close to doing the same thing.

Problem is your compression rod snapping. That allowed the lower control arm to twist back, bent the shock, dislodged the torsion bar, and probably ruined the control arm bushing. Dont worry about the sway bar, its probably just the angle of the dangle at the moment. $10 at the parts store and you have new links and bushings for it. As far as the rest of the damage, you might be hurting pretty bad... first things first though, put it up in the air and find out what point in the torsion bar system is bad now and fix that. Buy a new compression rod and bushings to replace the snapped one. Then take it from there.

Lower control arm bolt snapping, compression rod snapping, splines on the torsion bar mount stripping out, adjuster rusted and broke suddenly unloading the suspension... take some detailed pics of the damage and post them.

Put the wheels back on, set it on the ground, cranked the torsion bars up, and used the starter to move it out of the garage and into the carport.

Put the wheels back on, set it on the ground, cranked the torsion bars up, and used the starter to move it out of the garage and into the carport.

Did you check your torsion bar bracket on the lower control arm and adjusters in the rear cross member? A thwang and sudden sagging/wobbling really sounds like a torsion bar issue. Its the only thing that keeps the suspension up.

Yeah.

Finished the front end. The steering is extremely tight, up in the air without the wheels its hard to turn. Don't know if something is wrong or if the center link needs to wear in or what. And because its so tight I've realized how much play is in my steering box.

Finished the front end. The steering is extremely tight, up in the air without the wheels its hard to turn. Don't know if something is wrong or if the center link needs to wear in or what. And because its so tight I've realized how much play is in my steering box.

I can see if one side can't articulate and was locked in place that'd be scary as hell. I had a Rancho blow out on my right front, it just felt funny.

I'm still trying to figure out how a shock going bad would ever cause a wobble. Bouncy and squishy over bumps, yeah but not a wobble. They don't determine ride height and on our Pathfinders they don't locate anything. As long as the shock is still bolted in there's no way for it to collapse either as the torsion bars and coil springs keep the suspension up.

I found my solution for the torsion bar to LCA mounting bolts. A 1" long 10x1.00 bolt with a crush nut from an older Mercedes flex disk. The light bulb clicked on this morning and I dug through my hardware bin until I found the one extra I had for the 300TD I mechanically restored. It is the exact height, 5/16" to just barely clear the cross member bolts. I would rather have 1/4" though. Problem is, absolutely nowhere carries them new and I can't for the life of me find the used ones that came out of the car! The flex disks from Germany come with new hardware. So I need to run to the junkyard and snag a few. I never ever throw away good used hardware so I can't believe they're all missing.