Kingman

I think Timken is better than Beck Arnley.

Not unheard of

Well, if you look at it from the front it's 11.

Craziness! If it runs roll with it! The more you know...

Doesn't seem right

Almost every shop in the country buzzes lug nuts on and off with an impact and rarely have a problem. It's easier to cause yourself one if you don't stop when you sense anything odd, for sure. Something else is awry here...

You shouldn't use anything put pent rating oil on the studs if they are rusty. It sounds like Discount Tire messed them up last time they rotated the tires. Some GOOD penetrating oil, heat, and loosen/tighten a little bit at a time like a sticky spark plug. If that doesn't work, get a bigger gun, break them off, and replace the studs and lug nuts. Oh. You didn't use stainless lug nuts and studs did you?

Remade the throttle cable bracket for it. Now I'm waiting at the tire store getting some new DuraTracs put on. It's supposed to snow in the hills this weekend.

Fuel, compression, air, spark... Also, check the ECU for codes.

I have KYB Monomaxes on mine. Not a big fan...

Find a good trusted transmission or auto shop. A shop that simply plugs the cooler lines into a machine is not doing it right, which is more than likely going to be the chain shops. The pan needs to be dropped so the filter can be changed.

Agreed. Take it to another shop, preferably one that's well renowned. Shim style set ups are a pain in the butt because when you change the rear, you change the front and visa versa. Plus for every shim added or removed, they need to get back in and do another caster swing (start the engine, turn the wheels back and forth and return to center so the machine reads the changes.) Any caster or camber change effects the toe set as well, which is why it needs to be last and shouldn't be done unless all of the other angles are in spec. Anything over a half a degree on camber will wear a tire and the machine won't like it either.

Hell it should be under that much. Anytime you pop a head gasket the heads need to be decked, or as he said, trued. Mainly due to overheating which warps aluminum easily especially with an iron block. Around here $40-50 and an hour later you're out the door. It could also be that the engine was severely overheated and warped the head which is what caused the head gasket to blow if it actually did and isn't just leaking by. But, with 5 head bolts per cylinder, they don't really tend to do that. Also, do not retorque the head bolts a short time later. No-no! Today I fixed an exhaust rattle with bailing wire. Damn hanger broke right off. Can't believe some people's shoddy ass exhaust work sometimes. I've had more problems with this system done by some yahoo in Oregon than any other, even the rusty factory stuff.

Weeks? Man you people are slow up there. Yes, it's necessary. You'd be awfully angry if you put the head back on and it isn't true only to pop another head gasket. It only takes a few minutes to do... Also, it's a good idea to remove the head bolts in the tightening sequence a little at a time. Yard in bolts completely while others are still fully tight is a way to warp the head in its self.

Be sure to take the heads to the machine shop and have them decked.

Interesting, I stand corrected! As I understood it the unit it's self wasn't serviceable. There's quite a few write ups on Z31P a about swapping Z32 stuff into Z31s, which have the same style R200 diff as our fronts. It seems to require some interesting axle combinations including Infiniti J30s to work? I bet with some diligent searching it can be determined if it'll work with ours...

The pressure relief valve is built in to the oil pump, the bypass valve is in the block, and the anti drain back valve is in the oil filter. As long as they look close to the same, go for it. I've used Z24 oil filters on VG30s without issue. Actually they're physically bigger but mount the same.

Considering you have to basically destroy the case to get to the coupler - no I wouldn't trust it. You can only shim clutch style LSDs as far as I know. The chances of getting a Z32 LSD into the front carrier of our trucks is pretty slim.

You have an R50, Nissan fixed that problem by raising the fill hole an inch.

Yep, the fill plug on the WDs is too low which is why you need to "overfill" with an extra quart. Synchromesh is good stuff. My transmission felt world's better after servicing it with MT90. It's still tired after all these miles and my abuse but it's much better.

But does it do it as soon as you start the engine? If so it's stuck open.

Ok, since they're pre-mixed there's no need to dilute like was said already.

Soooo, the water does the cooling. The anti freeze is a lubricant and it changes both the freezing point and the boiling point when put under pressure. Always mix ad close to 50/50 as you can, and never run straight anti freeze.

Stupid is as stupid does...

LEDs have almost no resistance and the blinker flasher needs this in order to work properly. When a standard bulb fails, there's less resistance in the circuit causing it to trip and blink fast AKA... an easy way to tell you have an out bulb. The way to cure your problem is wire in proper ohm resistors or buy the LED bulbs with the resistors built in so everything functions normally. Blinking fast doesn't bother some people since the lights still blink, but I have to say it's annoying as Hell.