Kingman

You do not need an adapter. The way I said above is all that's needed. Just make sure that you only cut about an inch, if that into the inlet pipe on the muffler and make sure it's covering at least 2 inches of the stock pipe. No leaks of any kind, at least when I did mine earlier this year. No engine likes back pressure. That is an old wife's tale that is not true. The less, the better. The piping sizes has to do with the efficient flow of exhaust and heat traveling down the pipe and mixing with cooler air, etc.

Is it something that will cause a cold start to be really crappy? I have a universal Bosch O2 sensor, but I need the stock hole drilled out to fit and then I just need to splice the wires.

Any takers? It's getting slightly worse now. And the ECU still isn't giving any codes. What the hell?

Also destructive over time.

Ah. Glad to hear it was a straightforward no-hassles fix!

The VG30I or E is designed to run off of 87 octane gas, and none else.

Depends on how much of the exhaust will be 2". If it will be bumped up to 2" or 2.5" right off the manifold, then yes it will be beneficial. Stock exhaust systems usually restrict around 20% of flow - so 80% efficiency, with the tubing size, manifold set up, type of muffler and catalytic converter(s) used. That's if you were going to redo the entire exhaust system. I think the 2" inlet on a muffler is basically all you can use since stock pipe size is 1.875". At that point, either have a shop weld the muffler on or take a hack saw and cut 4 slits in the end and clamp it down onto the stock exhaust pipe with an exhaust clamp. The material taken out of the pipe on the muffler when you cut it is perfect for mating to something slightly smaller.

x1000! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

RUN THE ECU DIAGNOSTIC CODES!!!

Looks to me like all it's doing is reducing flow and taking away some efficiency. Power, fuel mileage... I say get rid of all but the mandatory one and use 2.25" piping with a magnaflow or flowmaster, or whatever muffler.

What was your rig doing?

Sucking water into the engine, and/or getting water into the seats of the spark plugs, making it run rough until the engine heat dries it out. Mine does the same thing, I have a rust hole in the driver's fender, which leads right into the intake tube for the throttle body. I found that out the hard way... I've since moved it around a little so it's not such a direct water-suck into the engine.

You only need one cat here in Washington to pass. I put a Magnaflow hi-flow cat on mine and it woke it up pretty good. NGK plugs and wires are very good for the money.

Completely disregard what I said about unplugging it. I misread a prior post.

Is the entire truck up in the air and you're basically driving it up in the air...? I'll just throw this in here, if the truck is being driven off the ground. Left CV axle spins, but not the wheel: 1/2 of the axle is not spinning, is clicking and popping (outer part connecting to the wheel is not turning but the inner part connecting to the diff is turning), so no way to spin the wheel and lock the hub to tell if it's defective or not. If the entire axle is spinning, is clicking and popping anyways, and the wheel is not spinning, bad hub as well as the CV axle. Either way, new axle. Right CV axle not spinning: bad diff or simply open differential woes. Drop the truck onto the ground, and only lift the front end off the ground. Spin the right wheel until the hub locks. If it locks, this should spin the left CV axle. If it doesn't, you have a diff problem. Manually turning a wheel will always spin the other wheel if everything is working properly. Not the case when using the vehicles own power to spin the wheels.

Have you beaten on the starter yet...?

HUH?

There are no hubs on an R50, the CVs constantly spin whether you're in 2 or 4WD. It engages and disengages from the transfer case only, not the combination of transfer case+hubs like a WD21.

A side pic would be better to tell... But yeah if the truck was sitting level in the water and the starter was submerged for a while it could cause problems... Or you might have gotten some other connector wet Does it make any kind of noise?

The rear wheels don't spin if you spin the front wheels. So you spun the left wheel with 4 wheel drive engaged, and the right side didn't spin at all? Did the inner part of the axle spin and not the outer? Was the entire axle still? Was the entire left axle spinning, or just one half? If only one half, that would simply mean that the axle is shot, obviously, and not connecting to the differential. If the entire axle was spinning, and the other side was completely still, that could be a bigger problem. Spinning one wheel should spin the other in the opposite direction, unless LSD or locked. But then again, there's the thing with the popping and binding. So something is working...

This must be related... I've been searching for close to an hour now, and most things I type in come back no results or are 100% NOT what I need. I even managed to find the cooler center console thread before anything to do with an engine. I fail. Starting a few days ago, on cold starts the engine idles around 800 RPM in park, and runs somewhat rough. Off idle it runs perfectly fine. If I rev it up, and let off, the RPMs drop very low then pop back up to about 800 again. In drive it's about 400. When it's warm, the idle is smooth at 1100-1200 in park and I'd guess around 700 in drive, but that varies within 100 RPM on different stops. In drive, the needle usually sits just above the not-centered line below the 1000 RPM mark. And when it's warm, after it's been idling a while, the idle slowly starts to drop down to 1000 in park until I blip the throttle and it goes back to normal. I have set the idle to where I want it to, but when it's cold it's not behaving the way I've set it. No codes from the ECU. No vacuum leaks as far as I can tell. MAF is clean. This problem is no where near as severe as what I posted above, though.

If water gets into the connecting terminals and solenoid, brushes, etc. in the starter it can mess it up, especially muddy water like that. Over time it will corrode the connections as well. You could take the starter out and take it apart and make sure everything is dry and clean.

Usually lifters only tick until the oil has been pumped to them. That only takes a few, at most, 30 seconds. If you had a completely shot lifter oil ring, it would tick constantly, or at constant higher RPMs, like mine does (on the freeway at 4k) Metal takes quite a while to heat up, which would explain why the tick doesn't go away until the engine is totally warm, long after oil is properly circulated throughout the engine. Since you say you used a stethoscope already, and found the rear stud to be very loud, tighten it down! In fact, I'd say go around and make sure every stud is tight when the engine is warm, not cold.

I'm making some as soon as I get home nom nom nom