Kingman

Still clear. The problem has been around for a long while, just getting around to mentioning it. Like a lot of things...

A coil only works, or it doesn't. Don't waste your money on that. The wiring to your MAF sensor could be finnicky, or the sensor its self could be dirty. There's a how-to on cleaning it. Check the power wire to your distributor and make sure that's tight and sealed. That's all I can think of...

I read right over the "don't" in that sentence... Oh yeah, true. Makes sense. Getting there... Hmmmm... Oh, and I took a look at my "new" O2 sensor, and when I took it out my truck ran exactly the same. Shouldn't it run different? The top was also white powdery looking...

Mine always sputters for a long while when it gets wet, whether it's from hosing the engine down or going through a puddle fast enough when wheelin. I just hold the rpms high for a few min and it seems to clear it up. Rarely ever does it still sputter after this. the distributor isn't getting wet, either.

I just think it's weird that in so many other vehicles, the rpms use most of the tach. On mine, what's the point in having an 8k max if it won't rev past 5k. Lol I hope he didn't...he'd be getting a good I lost my manual, damnit! Which sensors? There's no vacuum leaks, I fixed all the ones that were, and valves? As in internal exhaust and fuel valves? Or EGR valves and what not?

Last time I checked my timing was at 12 degrees. I'll have to check again next time I go to my mom's and get a timing light on it. And by max I meant the highest number on the tach. In neutral it revs fine to redline, but in gear it just won't pick up past 4700. It just gets there and refuses to go any faster or rev any higher. This is with manual control and not letting it shift by its self. I read somethind about advancing the timing to 15 degrees? I want to rebuild the top end some time, have the heads done and replace the lifters as well as install european cams. Also, at around 4700 rpm it sort of feels like it's sputtering a little and not running right. If you say timing, could my belt have slipped a tooth? It's almost new though...

Like on my step mom's Sportage V6, it shifts out of first under full throttle at 6200 rpm with a tach max at 8000 rpm. My dad's F150 5.4L shifts out of first at 5400 rpm with the tach max at 6000 rpm. How come a Pathfinder won't seem to rev over 4700 and it has an 8000 rpm max? What determines how far an engine can rev? Timing? Valves? Cam?

Maybe they're wiser second thoughts about selling it Watch them show up on ths forum...

Same here. My right side is leaking grease into the drum, but it's been like that for a long, long time and the fluid level is still full.

My mom's ex used to put Viper basic alarms on all his company work vans. They were basic, got the job done, and never had any issues. He would keep the vans for about 5 years too. Plus I like the name

I run mine at 35psi. I found that running anything below 32 made it feel squishy, especially with load.

X2. If you drive an uber amount, the sooner the better. If not that much or average, it's less important. Nevertheless it should still probably get done when money is more available. It's not worth stressing and making amends to generate the extra money to do it ASAP.

Someone buy that...

My step mom wanted me to take her dog to the vet for a check up a while back. The stupid piece of sh!t puked all over my back seat. First and last time that worthless thing will ever be in my truck.

I'd say you want some kind of protection

When I had my dog, Nikki, she came with me just about wherever I went...besides school. Lab/Corder Collie mix. She sure did a number on the leather back seats of my old Explorer... Man I miss that dog, I think I'm gonna go cry now. Thanks.

Should be an RE4R01A and RL4R01A

Have it aligned back into stock spec.

If you put it back down to stock height, with stock suspension components, you shouldn't need an alignment unless its pulling and it's noticeably out of wack. Which you state it isn't. The extreme angle of the CV axles when the torsion bars are at full crank and/or suspension lift tends to rip the boots. I'd say it's not a necessity, and can wait. I don't know the history of your truck before this post, however.

Yes...see doubletaps's comment...

So the old ones do and the new ones don't? I'd assume they're already lubed...

Good to hear you got the other issue worked out!

Nah not really, just writing down what I read. Wrong or right, has some relevance since it's coming from a service manual. If it's of help, good. If not, who cares?

Yours has 4 speeds plus overdrive Mine is just 3 speeds plus lockup