Kingman

Friday I'm going to burn off my old tires since they're no good anyways. I'll make vids for sure...

I would think it's for 5 speeds...you know, SYNCROmesh...

*snort*

Good tune up for sure. Mine showed great improvement when I did mine. As far as burnouts go...yes these will do them, and rather well too if you try hard enough. I had a few videos up on yourtube on my old account of me smoking the old tires off before I got new ones. Should you do one? Nah. But they are fun... They're not fast at all either. My automatic will run a 12.1 sec to 60, with manual shifting.

I tapped it both ways, with the nut on and off. Wouldn't move so I left it. Didn't even think about hitting where it goes through though.

Also, is that black thing that looks like a CV boot the bump stop? Or did you just happen to set the CV boot there?

No, thankfully I didn't. That's why I stopped before I messed anything up.

Oh. Sh!t, I was hammering on the bottom of the tie rod. I was scared of damaging anything so I stopped and gave up. I'll do that on the other side tomorrow.

Oh! I thought you were referring to it differently than I was thinking. My bad. And I cant really tell what's what in your pic since it's so rusty and everything is sort of blending in...lol And, I see you managed to get the tie rod end to come off the wheel assembly. Mine refused to come off. Was yours easy to get off?

That's not my bump stop? That's what is attached to the frame that attaches to the LCA. For reference, to the left is the center link with the tie rod attached to it and moved out of the way

My driver's side door goes bang bang bang when I hit bumps on roads like that hard enough. I know the door pints get old and so the door rattles and moves a bit over harsh terrain, which is probably where most of your noise is coming from. Just go around tightening all the screws you can find on the interior, I did that with mine when I first got it and quite a few parts shut up.

Got one CV axle out, all I had time for. It's actually in excellent shape. I'm surprised. And now that I know exactly what to do, the next one should barely take any time at all. And does this look bent to anyone? If it is, that would explain all my issues with the bent assembly and my shock being dug into my UCA. I would think that piece would be evenly squared off...Red is where I THINK it should be, blue is the lines following what really is there.

There's 2 temp sensors, one is 13 and the other is 98. Code 13 is the one in the valley that feeds the ECU, the other one is the one that screws in and is for the temp gauge on the cluster. My sensor was feeding the ecu 179 ohms, when spec is .3-1.7 ohms. The code 98 sensor is book rated at 1/2 hours work, while the code 13 is rated at 5.5 hours work. I also called back a while ago and questioned the work, because I talked to Nissan and they told me what you did, about the sensor being right up front. So I called the place back and he read to me right from the service book both the code 13 replacement procedures and charges, and the code 98 procedures and charges. It was aggravating, because I was hoping to get some money back for the extreme bill, but turns out Nissan was talking about the other sensor. If I didn't need the truck back the next day for school, I would have done the work myself, saving a lot of money.

Well it labeled the R50 as a station wagon... Tisk Tisk

Wait, so it says it's the right one for ALL WD21s, but there's a difference between the E and the I so then it's NOT the right one for all WD21s, because of the emissions differences. But then you bought one for 1990-1995 WD21s, while it says the manifold is for all WD21s... *shakeshead* That's why I don't like sketchy web sites like that.

Sounds like your ECM Coolant Temp Sensor (code 13) is acting up. It's telling your ECU it's much colder than it actually is and so your ECU is dumping a ton of gas into the engine, and the ignition and engine have a hard time keeping up. My ECU gave all-clear codes (44 and 55) right up until the sensor completely went out. I drove 8 miles and used damn near a half a tank of gas on my way to school. Now, if it is the sensor, it's costly to replace. The sensor is around $55 bucks, but it's buried in the valley of the engine, right below the intake manifold. The shop I went to book rated this job at 5.5 hours, at $99.50 an hour. Plus other little charges, the total was roughly $850. I called 5 other shops after I got the bill, and all were within $50 of this price for the same work. Hopefully, for your wallet, this isn't your problem, but yours is doing exactly what mine was.

I made a list of all the problems right now with the Pathy and what's already been worked on...don't really know if I should sell it and buy another one, keep this and one save up for another one, or what... 1) Diff seal blown, non usable 4x4 for now 2) Transmission 3) Ticking lifters 4) Miscellaneous dents and missing minor parts 5) Power steering leak 6) The situation with the front end, shocks in the UCAs (and completely dead driver's side shock), pulls to the left hard, driver's side wheel sticking out way further then the passenger side, center link and ball joints are very worn, etc. 7) Horrible gas mileage 8) Passenger side drum being invaded by axle grease 9) CV boots torn But then again, there's A LOT of work and money already in it, and it's my baby, knowing I've put a lot of hard work and money and time fixing things makes it hard to let it go. And it STILL feels like I could drive it off a cliff and it would be just fine. I like the way it rides and handles, but I don't like the lack of power and stupidly spaced gears in the auto tranny. So far that's been replaced: 1) Plugs, wires, cap and rotor 2) ECM Coolant Temp Sensor (the $850 job one lol) 3) Muffler, cat 4) Tires, brakes 5) Compression rod bushings 6) O2 sensor 7) Coil 8) Reed valve 9) Window 10) Various vacuum lines 11) Thermostat, almost all the coolant hoses 12) Aftermarket tranny cooler I'm pretty sure that's not even all, will probably think of a few later

If its only when the engine is cranking and not running then it's probably starter related. If it's always thudding even if its running then man you got a problem... Yes, mine is an SE, says in my signature. If you want someone to come and hear it, I'll be in Vancouver tomorrow...

I really don't want to take out the diff...ugh...oh well. No school tomorrow, might as well make the day useful...

The 3 speed will bolt up fine, but will NOT work. The wiring is completely different than those with the 4-speed transmissions.

Ok sweet. Thanks. What's the spindle? Pic?

Does the front differential and CV joints ad any type of structural rigidity for the front suspension, or is there too many important parts attached to it? I'm basically asking if I can just drop it out so I can work on it outside of the truck, but still drive the truck around like normal. Since they made 2WD Pathfinders, I would think it would be fine?

I've always thought transmission fluid smelled burned, even straight from the bottle. If it smells excessively burned, then yeah I'd do another good flush just to be sure. It also might be worthwhile to drop the oil pan off and have a look at that filter. You should definitely put an aftermarket cooler on. My tranny was starting to go, but after I put the cooler back on it acted up once a short while after, and has been fine ever since. At first I was concerned about the harsh shifts between 1-2, but after 8,000 miles of it, I attribute it to something it just does.

I don't really see much point of the thing in the first place. My truck barely even backfired with it off (and that was with no muffler, or anything cat-back). All it seems to do is whistle a lot and make the motor rev up when it starts...yay! NOT. Whichhhh reminds me, I need to fix my vacuum line for the cruise control...

That's not even at all where my train of thought was going, but okay...if you want it to take it that way, that's not my problem.