Kingman

Differential housing? What part of the differential is this? Where the CV axles meet?

Of course. This happened at school today. I can still drive it in 2wd. Just if snow and ice comes again, I'm a wee little bit screwed...

Isn't the t-case bolted to the back of the transmission?

Brake cleaner eh? Alright. It seems like the whole thing is leaking, from the top and the bottom. What part of my front suspension? And no, I didn't report it to the police. There's so many ricers out around this town it would probably be pointless. I only have liability insurance, so that's a no-go as well. It doesn't make noise over bumps at all, just with a little bit of turning on flat surfaces or whatever. I'm maybe thinking the ball joints or tie rod ends with the center link?

Can we see?

Some stupid ricer car THING hit my truck today in the school parking lot, the driver's side front wheel to be more precise. I was on the other side of my buddy's truck (2 spaces down), and heard the commotion and chirping of tires that, gee sounded JUST like my front tires. Turned around to see some black POS ricer speed away from my truck and out of the parking lot, and from the angle I couldn't make out his license plate number. Never even seen that car before. I walked over to where my truck was, now pushed a good foot to the side and could clearly see the marks from his bumper on my tire, and instantly saw oil start dripping out onto the ground. Coming from whatever it is that connects the CV axles together from the transfer case. Leaving my girlfriend's house a while ago, another probably double the size puddle was under it, fluid everywhere. No 4hi or 4lo from what I can tell by trying to engage it. Bad timing because of the snow. And now, when turning to the left after tracking straight for some time, or maybe a little bit to the right too, there's an audible "pop" or "snap" from something, and a little minute noise when turning the wheel the other way. This isn't full turning either, just a little bit of steering to the left makes the noise as soon as I turn the wheel. STUPID MOTHER &^%*ing PIECE OF @!*% RICERS!!!! I really hope all that was damaged was the seal, and that I can replace that and fill it back up. And that it not engaging is because of lack of fluid. Within a half hour of being hit EDIT: Another thing, my driver's side wheel sticks out further from the fender than the passenger side. By about an inch. Hopefully that's unrelated and I'm just now noticing it...

How long have you owned it? Did you restore it yourself? Ever since I was 11, my dream car has always been a 1970 Chevelle SS454 LS6, blue with white stripes. I even get the shakes when I'm around one. And yes, your post did help.

Awesome idea. But personally I would use the lettering from the NPORA icon up there at the top /\ /\

That thing is orgasmically beautiful. SS396?

You have/had a Chevelle?! I envy you!

Man, you're an ass. It's not that I don't believe you, it's just that I'm still confused about certain aspects of it the whole situation with braking and engine braking. I'm still trying to get my head around the concept that the engine forcing the drivetrain to slow down, does not, in fact, help the vehicle its self to slow down. It's one of those things that I'll probably never fully understand. Though I do have a funny story about moms and leaning down to get something from their purse and knocking the gear lever into reverse doing 50...

Bold: That's why I'm taking it to lower river road and testing that. How do you KNOW its at that maximum? I was talking to my grandpa about it, and he said in all of his driving experience, panic stopping with the gearing saved his ass a few times, manual or automatic. Though he did say manuals were more effective at slowing.

Saw a yellow WD pass through town a week or so ago, had Oregon plates on it. The roof was chopped off at the same angle as the quarter glass vent windows, about an inch or so alongside them. Had a black vinyl top . It also still had the rear tire carrier on, it looked sickkk. It also had the stock light bar on top, and it looked like the top attached to it or butted up against it. Seemed to be fully lifted on 33s as well, mounted on black rock crawlers. Had matching black custom front and rear bumper and side steps. If my phone woulda quit freezing I woulda taken a pic of it.

Brakes work just fine. I'm not saying I HAVE to use the engine to stop my truck, it stops damn well on its own. BUT what I am saying is, if brakes alone just simply aren't enough to stop in time (not whether or not they are powerful enough to lock the wheels, which they can, but a 100% not-enough-stopping-distance issue), whats wrong with the little extra that engine braking provides? Am I expected to hit the guy when I can do something else as a last-ditch effort? I just don't see how using ONLY the brakes can stop a vehicle as fast as using the brakes AND engine compression to slow it.

So, someone with an automatic, drive at 30mph, let off the gas and pull the lever into 1st gear without touching the brakes. And tell me the vehicle doesnt slow down when first gear engages, even if its a little bit. I must be imagining things when I get thrown forwards from stopping force when the gear engages. Regardless of the damage (probably nothing) caused, it still slows you. Why do we use engine braking in the snow? So the brakes don't lock up, and the gearing and engine compression help slow the vehicle down IN ADDITION TO the brakes. The rear wheels are forced to slow down to match the drivetrain speed, therefore slowing the vehicle as a whole because of the difference in speed between the drivetrain speed and the vehicle speed. The difference in speed puts force and friction on the pavement the vehicle is rolling on. If you're towing, and going down a steep hill, why the hell would you NOT use your engine to keep the vehicle's pace or slow? Because "thats what the brakes are for" ??? Brakes get hot, and fade when they do so. That effectively equals poor stopping power over time. Using the engine to slow and keep pace just about gets rid of this problem. Maybe if I have the time, I'll head down to lower river road and paint up some lines, and do a stopping test with and without engine braking to see what the difference really is.

I have an automatic, says in my signature lol. And my thread about my automatic tranny having...issues. I've had to use the gearing to stop suddenly when someone pulls RIGHT out in front of me, when brakes alone aren't enough to stop quick enough. I've only had to do this twice. If you can imagine, if one time me using the engine to brake as well as the brakes themselves, I didn't cershmuck the guy by about a foot, where would I be with just using the brakes? I would have poor little baby in car seat in my bull guard. Pulling the lever into first gear from drive immediately gives you second gear, then after its slowed enough, screaaaaaach from the tires and you have first gear, then a mere few seconds or so before the truck is totally stopped. RPMs raise to about 4000.

Exactly how hard is it on the drivetrain, dropping it into first in addition to the brakes to stop the vehicle in a hurry? I've had to do it a few times, but what's weird is on mine, when first gear actually engages (a safety doesn't seem to let it kick into 1st over 25mph unless accelerating at full throttle) the rear wheels actually skid a little, like 1 or 2 seconds as its slowing. That just seems like a lot of force and pressure on everything

That's a MAJOR cause of wobble. My bushings on those rods were toast, the steering wheel wanted to shake its self out of my hand sometimes. Now that those are replaced, theres not the slightest bit of shaking over bumps. Compression rod/tension rod. A Haynes manual calls it a compression rod http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...rod+tension+rod The rod with the old and new blue bushings is the compression rod/tension rod

Crack in a line to the AB valve?

yup

They were still solid front axle from 1999-2004, but they are unibody.

Toyota

I HIGHLY suggest not getting that Cherokee, because it's a '99. They redesigned them in '99. The '99s are HORRIBLE! You WILL have MANY problems with it. WILL, WILL, WILL. If you are interested in a newer GC, get a 2000 or 2001. I don't even want to remember the horror my grandparents bought new, which was such a headache at 54,000 miles when she sold it last year. Sooooo many problems, expensive problems. Their neighbor just sold off theirs last week after the same situation with their '99. Their '01 has been flawless. Unless you got a lot of money to fix that '99, I'd say stay away from it.

I put them back down to zero right before I put on the compression rod bushings since I put my new rear wheels on the front, rather not ruin those in a jiffy. They were only cranked about half way anyways... I just need new shocks, and in looking, with the way my front end is bent up, and how the stock shock is in the UCA, the Pro Comp shocks don't have the bottom part filled out, so I think those are actually the only ones I can put on without thrashing them all to hell because of how thin they are.

Aha, answered my own question! Love it when that happens...