Kingman

WTF?!?! Tranny worked perfectly fine on the way to school today, and I had to get on it hard to get out of the way of an asshat semi truck driver. No hint at all of what happened last night. This thing is so flippin BiPolar...

The first one sucks a lot, the new one I have is a hell of a lot better. I can actually type without pressing a letter and having it select the one on the other side of the keyboard. LOL

ITOUCH ITOUCH ITOUCH!! Ahhhh! But I cant find anything on it...I must be malfunctioning today...everything else around me seems to be...so hell why not me too?

*gets up and goes upstairs to get on computer* Already on it

Thinking about it, I was grinding up mountain roads on new years day, got pretty hot, smelled like something was burning by the time I got to the top. Temp gauge raised a bit too. HOw much are tranny coolers? GG said that the thing in front of my radiator was for the AC, so I have NO idea how I would install a tranny cooler on my own

Yeah, on the way back from my girlfriend' house, she started shifting really really weirdly, like into second gear then bam back into first then second then first then second and then it shifted normally into third. Slowing down it kept slipping out of hear until I was in first gear at 25mph...a lot of revs there... First thing I did when I got home was shift it into reverse. Took a few seconds then BAM it shifted into reverse (I could hear internal mechanical clangs and thunk) and the whole truck shuddered. Same with Drive. But then I put it in neutral and held the revs at 5k (thinking lack of fluid pressure) for about 15 seconds, shifted it into reverse, smooth as silk. Same with drive. Drove it around the block again and it shifted like normal. Got it home, smelled the fluid and it smells a little burned. Tomorrow me and my dad are going to do a tanny flush, see if it helps. I can't believe I posted about my tanny in PoHo and what not...and then this happens.

Those do look badass!

I use this thing. I confuse myself...Sorry about that lol http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html

That's an awful long ways stuck in second and third gear...if there are any back roads, I'd keep it in second and drive slow lol. Though my buddy did blow the tranny in his Mustang the other night shifting from OD to D at a stoplight...BOOM. And that was all she wrote...

85 is a 32" tire, 76 is a 31" tire, 71 is a 30" tire

The center link its self shouldn't "go bad" because its a solid piece of metal. Probably could get bent if hit hard enough. The ball joints that hold everything together are what goes bad. Those go bad, and you usually replace the whole center link when this happens because most places don't sell JUST the ball joints. Or, you can find a good machine shop and have them press out the old ones and replace them, if you can find a place that sells just the ball joints, unlikely. Usually bad ball joints will make the center link travel up and then to the side when the front end is jacked up and you twist and pull on on a wheel. There will also be a lot of play in the wheel before the other wheel starts to move. This is my general understanding of what goes on with these, I'm sure someone who is more educated will share their 2 cents

^^ x2

If it looks the same it should be the same. Probably better to tell by comparing them side by side, but if they look the same in the pics, then I dont see why not

What's the part called on that website? I dont see compression rod anywhere

I think its the pic and the shadow that makes it look bent on mine, i just rechecked it and its not tweaked or bent

My buddy had to use the Dakota Digital when he swapped a 5.0 into his Bronco II

hahaha that's the first thing that popped into my head when i looked it all over. My buddy has a d44 he can give me for freeeeeeeeee....if only i had the money for the SAS kit... Why do I have to replace the whole compression rod and not just the bushings and bushing cup? EDIT: If it's not too much to ask, could someone snap a few quick pics of their front end that's not all foobarred, so I can see what it *should* look like?

Yeah, I have no idea what your talking about with the bearing cups so you'd have to show me lol. I thought about the hoohaa pretty seriously already. Costless quoted me $249 for a new center link with ball joints...Much better deal to spend $229+shipping for something 1749655645265726525x better.

Hahaha, very true. That "chicks dig it" song by Chris Cagle is running through my head now... Well take it easy and rest up, should be good to go in no time

Very true. Guess we'll have to see what happens with the new bushings. I think I'm going to take the center link and have the ball joints pressed out and replace them with new ones for now, just to keep it drivable until I can afford to put a lift on it. Hopefully that and the bushings are just the bare minimum to keep 'er goin...

Lol, I see you're from Vancouver, so a forewarning... beware of standing water on Mill Plain right in front of Hudson's Bay heading west to the freeway...

The thing that I'm worried about, is I might've bent the whole lower piece back, because of the way the shock is into the control arm. If fixing the bushings on the compression arm don't push the assembly forwards far enough, I wont be able to put new shocks on. Or I was thinking take a winch to it and pull it back into position...

Oh yeah, shocks are definitely in need of replacing. Actually it wasn't loose at all, heavy yes, but not loose. I already replaced the swaybar links and bushings a few months ago.

Yeah pretty much... Pretty crappy birthday present if you ask me... 1) Dried it out 2) That rod lookin thing thing with the bushings on it that mount to the frame behind the wheel, which I think controls the toe 3) The mount with the moon-shaped bushing that's welded above where the lower control arm is attached to the center piece of the suspension 4) The play is only in the center link, tie rod ends are fine, and the pitman arm moves a tiny bit. The center link moves up and down and jiggles when the wheel is moved side to side. 5) Sprayed the wiring with WD40 already, no change. It is stock though...202k sounds about right to me for it to go out anyways...

Hit a HUGE puddle (well about 20 yards of standing water on the road) last night doing about 30 in front of my school (10 under the speed limit) on the way home, didn't see the water at all. I hit it and instantly hydroplained and it sucked me to the left and bounced me up over the curb to the grass and flowers in the center median and came a few inches away from hitting a pine tree. When I slid back down on to the road, I was sitting in about 6-8 inches of standing water, up and over the curb. I couldn't see anything for a while until the water stopped spraying. I had my little brother (11) in the truck with me, I thought we were going to smack the tree head on, but somehow missed it. I don't know what I would have done with myself if he had gotten hurt... Damage: 1) Sucked water into the engine through the rust hole in my fender, which is conveniently placed at the opening to the boot on the air cleaner. Barely ran until I got it home. 2) Blew out the bushings on the compression rod on the drivers side, which sucked my shock into the upper control arm or A frame and tweaked all that up. So now my shock slants back at an angle instead of straight up and down. It's mashed pretty good. 3) Broke the mounts on the stabilizer bar 4) An extreme amount of play in the center link ball joints, the wheel can move about 2 inches before the other side even starts to move 5) Killed my alternator, its giving about 11-12 volts at idle, and sort of gets better as the revs increase. Not even sure what to do, going over options with my parents right now...