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Everything posted by Kingman
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Yeah, like i said I want to try Seafoam. If I want to attend the lifters and what not, its directly into the oil right, and if i want to tend to the intake and pistons and what not, I suck it in through a vacuum line from the brake booster, right?
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This isn't a one time experience, this would be the third time people I've known have had bad encounters with FS. The movement on the ball joints was barely noticeable, but only moved because he was applying so much force. It looked like he was prying with all his might! It was extreme forced movement. I've seen bad ball joints before, these were no were near. That alone could probably damage them. No, if this was a one time thing, I wouldn't have been so mad. Laxman, sounds like what happened with my buddy's truck at a shop a few months ago!
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How long can I leave it for? I'm not trying to neglect my truck, but honestly I have other issues... How hard is it to replace the lifters?
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My aunt took her '93 Explorer in for tire rotation from at Firestone. She called me, totally baffled that they had said she needed new ball joints. Funny thing there, you see, me my dad REPLACED the ball joints upper AND lower THREE MONTHS BEFORE TODAY! My dad and I went in there absolutely fuming and asked them to prove why she needed them, the guy stuck a fxck!ng CROW BAR in the ball joint and FORCEFULLY pried to make them move. Then went and pointed out that the slight movement was not good and he should replace them IMMEDIATELY. My dad then told them that we had replaced them three months ago, and man you should have seen that "mechanic's" face. Never, ever ever, EVER go to Firestone!
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Yeah, its doing it almost all the time now getting off the freeway. It's especially noticeable when I let off the gas (so the compression and momentum is driving the engine) Is it weird that the engine is still running perfectly smooth? *sigh* How hard is this to do?
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What does the ECU do to control the timing? Being advancing or retarding the timing is a manual, physical thing, I'm interested in what the ECU does
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It's due for an oil change in about 300 miles. I've been eyeballing the seafoam, but im a little worried im totally going to mess something up! lol
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This is the 4th time this has happened, but coming off of the freeway and slowing down to a stop, there is a LOUD ticking noise that sounds extremely tinny. From about 3000 rpms down it ticks (or at least thats when i can hear it over my exhaust and general engine noise), sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. It's engine speed relative, too. At a stop, it will be tick tick tick tick tick very slow paced. When I accelerate the ticking gets faster, then at about 2500 rpms or a few (five maybe) seconds, it disappears. It doesn't really fade away either, it just stops ticking. It does this about once a month usually less, its so weird. The engine clatters for a second or two at start up in the mornings, but not a noise one after that. Could this be exhaust backpressure on the manifold? A lifter starting to go? Both?
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Both my plastic tabs broke and causing the headlights to bounce around and point random directions. I zip tied them in place and they haven't moved since besides minute little movements, which would probably reduce stress a little
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Does doing this require more oil to cover the distance from the engine to the new oil filter placement?
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I shifted it into and out of 4wd and 2wd and into 4lo just now in front of my house a few times They're working fine now...Hmmmmmm. I took them off for a quick peak and they were packed good with what honestly looks like fresh grease. I think they've been serviced before, since the bolts and color patters/rust residue and marks don't match the holes they came out of. Most of the bolts I could match up to the correct hole, so it looks like they've been taken off before and the bolts weren't put back in their original spots. Maybe it was a glitch thing and I was worried about nothing...
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Will do. Any particular brand of grease and what not?
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Yesterday my friend had to get soemthing from the other end of his property, through his well used mudy field. Since 1) it was a good reason to get the pathfinder muddy and 2) my truck was the only 4x4 at his house at the time, we took it Got stuck in 2x4 so i popped it in to 4hi and continued i took it out of 4i normally and parked the truck. when i left his house and pulled on to the main road, thats when i noticed something wasnt right. the steering was jerkinig left and right and actually pulling the truck, as i gained speed it felt like the front end was floating i was scared !@#$less by now Pulled the truck over, and engaged(moved the lever to 4x4 again) and disengaged it as normal Still wouldnt come out of 4x4 I got fed up and put it in reverse and hit the gas and for a while i felt the fronts digging in, then disengaged and the back tires started spinning. i've never had issues with engaging/disengaging before, and never had to reverse to get it to disengage. now its out of 4x4 I'm a little worried about this...anyone think it was a fluke thing, or are my hubs shot? I suppose putting it back in 4hi would tell me, but im kinda worried its not going to disengage. Is there a way to force it out of 4x4 if they hubs dont disengage? they're the stock autolocking, and i didn't use 4lo this time out.
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Just curious...how do you guys refer to this site?
Kingman replied to jpawela's topic in General Forums
"Pathfinder forum" or N-PORA -
Well, i do have a magnaflow cat on, and its straight pipe from there. I have another set up with a brand new muffler on it for emissions It's too quiet with the muffler on...
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So thats why it kinda pops a little... Gotcha I'm straight piped right now, so it sounds like a gunshot
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Fixed it! Replaced that 90* hose right behind the timing belt cover, it was cracked all over the place. And a new radiator cap, flushed the radiator, good as new!
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I broke the stupid plastic-type hose that connects it from the bottom to the throttle body so I just took it off. I noticed it refused to run, so I stuck a screw in a small vacuum line and a chunk of rubber cone into the throttle body connector. Runs fine, starting up when its cold is strange. Instead of revving up when it starts and settles, it starts and the rpm immediately drops to almost nothing then creeps back up to normal. So I'm wondering if there are any long term affects of removing this. Is it going to pass emissions without it? Bad for the engine? Gas mileage?
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I would venture to say your coil went out
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So its suffice to say I need a new brake booster sometime down the road...?
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Seriously! My '87 showed a significant increase in power, and better gas mileage too! I shined a flashlight through one end of my old cat and I could just barely see the light from the other end. The new magnaflow, I could see it clearly. What a difference. Did yours kinda feel like you were towing something all the time, with the lag on the engine?
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In the Haynes manual?
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I re-checked today after I started losing coolant again, and I can see a definite trail of coolant running from between the heads near the throttle body down a black slanted cover, around the water pump, and dripping out right from the very lowest bolt on the water pump (I think that's what it is)
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Thanks for clearing that up! Could this be ruled out as the problem if the IACV still adjusts for everything else, ie. the rear defrost and air conditioning?
