Kingman

Man i really feel unprepared... Tool kit WD-40 All the fluids, power steering, engine oil, tranny fluid, etc Jumper cables 3 inch tow strap 2 inch tow strap Vice grips Fuses Windshield washer fluid Spray paint, white and black Light bulbs Hunting knife, pocket knife Food Mag light I'm sure I have more, kinda hard to recite everything in the truck ya know

That's how I cleaned my baked and covered in oil valve covers when I changed my gaskets. Sprayed some on there, let it sit, old tooth brush and scrub it down, hose it off, and good as new!

Same here, my 1st-2nd gear changes are very harsh when it's cold, but my 2nd-3rd shift, no matter the temp, is barely noticeable at all. If the engine revs in 1st gear before shifting and I let my foot off the gas before it changes into 2nd gear, the shift is EXTREMELY harsh, it jolts the truck pretty well. If I keep my foot in it pretty good, it's not as bad.

I highly doubt it's the same problem as you have, just thought it was interesting that ours shared the same signs and issues, just different causes

Eh, I woulda, but my little idea came to me when I actually looked at the latch. Didn't really feel like taking the latch out at the moment, I actually did this when I was putting my clothes in the back of my truck. Found the staple clump on the ground too, better off serving my dome light than in my tire

My aunt has an '02, she bought it new and travels all across the country with it. It's got 186k on it now, runs like a champ! Routine maintenance, plus o2 sensors is all she's had to do to it. Good truck really, comfortable, and reliable. She loves it to death!

Fixed it, stuck a few construction staples sideways between the switch in the rear hatch mechanism and the switch's seat, so now it's always stuck closed so the dome light stays off in the rear. If i want it on, i can turn it on. Now my door light up front works fine. Thanks for the tips, would never have figured it out without you guys! I'll take a pic of it tomorrow

Took them off, looks way better. Tires only stick out barely over an inch it looks like. Dang, I need a better camera. Sorry about the crappy pics

The revving problem is the same thing mine had when the coolant temp sensor went out... hit the gas, and the ECU would dump a ton of gas into it and flood it out, so it sputters and what not. It was also intermittent like that, cut power to it and it worked fine the next time I drove the truck. Actually, what yours is doing is EXACTLY what mine was doing just before the sensor totally took a crap on the way to school a week later. Just a thought.

If that's the law, its retarded. I'd rather pay the ticket than put mud flaps on my truck. So um, how would I go about stopping a cop? Flash my lights and horn and pretend to pull him over?

They seem like they would be easy enough to remove, just pins and clips and bolts under the fender. Sweet. I've never had any mud flaps on mine, I didn't know it was illegal. Good thing the cop didn't say anything about it when he pulled me over for speeding...

The interiors are the exact same basic set up. Trim levels might have different interior pieces in detail, so make sure that if the obvious stuff is gonna be swapped out, that it's the same trim level for the matching part, ex: XE, SE, LE

Is it illegal in the state of Washington to remove them completely?

Whoa, thanks! I'll do that ASAP

I don't have anywhere on my dash that would indicate a door ajar. I'm wondering if only the later models had the door ajar light.

I got the truck back, they forgot to unhook the battery to re-set the ECU. That part is fine, BUT so much raw gas was being dumped into the exhaust that it totally messed up my catalytic converter, so it doesn't drive very well. It's just slow, very little power, sucks more gas, and just generally feels like I'm towing something and there's pressure on the engine. Can you believe this thing was sucking down 4.38 mpg since the sensor was bad? A half a tank of gas, and 46 miles. Good thing there's THIS to replace the stock CC! But I did get one thing done tonight, I buckled down and sprayed off my entire under carriage. I hoisted it up and took off all the wheels, put on some old shorts and goggles, climbed underneath and have 'er a whirl. By the time I was done, I was laying in a good 3 inches of mud. My whole side area next to my house was a mud slick. But the Pathy is spotless!

wow...lol

I've already tried everything the search turned up, washers, etc. The switch in the dome light is perfectly fine, so are the door jam switches, as I said. I don't know if the dome lights for the cargo area and front doors are separate, because they're always stuck on or manually turned off. So, are they separate or joined together? This is just something I'm just getting around to looking into, it's been like this since I bought it. Wait, my truck has a door ajar light?

It won't turn off unless I manually switch it to OFF, if I leave it on DOOR, it will stay on all night and drain my battery. Same with the rear cargo light. All my door switches move fine, I cleaned them up and it didn't make a difference. Is there some kind of relay, timer, anything that I can clean or replace to make my dome lights work? It's kind of a pain not having any light...

Not that I know of, I know some of the different models and what not have different looking seats, but I'm not so sure about the years making too much of a difference. I suppose you could buy them, try them, and if they don't work, return them. That way we'd all know

When I got it back, I checked everything to make sure it was all as it should be, and it was. As far as knowing if they replaced the sensor or not, I don't know. All I saw was the spec sheet when they ran the test with the numbers. I think they did replace it though, because the day that it went in the shop the tech had told me that noon was the cut-off for ordering parts, because the part wasn't around locally. I gave him the OK, and the next day (Thursday) I got a call mid-day that they had gotten the part and began working on it. I sort of doubt he was making it up, because this is a very well known shop and have VERY high levels of service. I disconnected the battery for about 15 min, just a random thing I thought out of luck might clear the ECU just in case, dumb I know. I had to drive it to the store today, down the road aways, and it ran fine. Fully warmed up, didn't act up the slightest bit. Strange. Guess we'll see. Good thing is, I get to drive my dad's F150 to school while the Pathy goes back in the shop

Yeah, moves fine and everything. I think they missed something, or something. It drove perfectly until it heated up like I said...thats the weird thing. It almost has to be the same sensor

Coolant temp sensor, that's what the problem was diagnosed as when the sensor was throwing 117 ohms instead of 2.7 ohms.

I let it sit for about 30 min, just went out to start it up and it started perfectly fine, no sputter, perfect rpm till it started to heat up again then it started doin its thing.