Kingman

X2 I'm all for anything to get me some better mileage

I spy a turn signal lens, fog lights, my 5 speed manual swap... hmmmm....

Can you find it for me? lol. I just need to find the money...somehow...

Yeah I'm gettin there. There's days where I want to just push it off a cliff and be done with it and go buy my mom's Cherokee off her. Then others where I can see positively. What parts were you thinking of?

I've seen too many electronic units like that go bonkerz to even want anything to do with one. Ever. Give me some good ol' reliable mechanical dials and levers and I'm set. The less electronics to mess up, the better. And it's easier on your wallet.

Definitely man. It's definitely unique!

I would love to see a write up. What kind of alternator do you have on yours? And how well does it handle fourteen lights?

WOW, that thing looks sweet man, really it does. It's one of my favorites now, love the black and dark gray. Especially the wheels and nismo sticker.

Very true. I'm not old enough to make payments on something, nor do I have a job. I am looking though. I'm leaning towards saving up, finding a junk Pathfinder, and start swapping the parts that are better than mine. Mine really isn't that bad, though. I need to fix the lifter, replace the diff seal and boot, and do some brakes and that's about it. I can live with the bent suspension part, it doesn't affect drivability other than a bonus automatic lane changer. I like knowing every bit and piece about this truck, so when something acts up I have a good idea what it might be. It's not like parts are failing left and right, it's long-lasting problems that I'd like to get taken care of and improve. If I could find $500 somewhere for parts, I would be golden

The frame is 100% My oil smells like gas, which I think has something to do with the ticking lifter I have. The seal is only 11 bucks, plus gear oil (what weight again? Might as well ask since I'm typing). Going to do the boots while it's all torn apart. Transmission problem went away. But I have a new tranny for it anyhow. No junk yards anywhere near here have a Pathfinder, or any Nissan of any sort. Plenty of everything else though... Engine and trans on CL right now for $250. That requires money. The entire front suspension is bent backwards, I'm taking it to a place who does only frame work to spec it and see what exactly is bent, how much, and if it's fixable. Have an almost free way to paint it and weld up my rear end so I'm not worried. I also have a very easy way to get the 350 and tranny out of my old Suburban.

I would invest a lot into strengthening the IFS. And I mean A LOT...I believe Calmini makes an idler arm braces and what not to keep things from buckling under high load. Hoohaa makes a custom order center link to rid the tension and twisting there as well. www.grassroots4x4.com Pathfinders and fast don't belong in the same sentence.

Seems like you're the one with the problem here?

Wow. This thread has become totally useless because of all the bickering...

unplug it!

It looks like 3/8ths tubing like you'd use for transmission fluid lines.

What's the sbc part?

Well, it's red, and towards the back on the passenger's side. Get a long funnel and pour to your hearts content.

Man, that thing is clean! Those seats look awesome! And comfortable!

I noticed that if I take my battery out of my truck (had to put it in my buddy's Datsun to get 'er runnin) that when I put the battery back in and start it, it runs pretty bad for a few min and driving around. What it does is sputter at idle, the RPMs are very low in park, read 400, and that barely changes in drive. It doesn't die, though. Any throttle application and it runs perfectly fine. These are learning ECUs, correct? So the few min that it runs bad the ECU is finding some way to make it run right? After a few min, like I said, it begins to run perfectly fine and the problem is gone until I remove the battery again. The ECU doesn't give any codes, however. And if I remember, some air valve opens up further to raise the RPMs when, say, the brights are on or the rear defrost is switched on, correct? Well, turning either of those on doesn't affect the RPMs the slightest bit when it's acting up. Could this mean that the valve that controls this is malfunctioning? Because once it starts running right, everything else starts working fine as well. Is the ECU covering up for some sensor or something that's malfunctioning? Would this point to a bad o2 sensor? I know if I take it out, the truck runs exactly the same. Can't quite find out if this means the sensor is good or bad. Any ideas?

Driving around in 2hi shouldn't hurt the CV axles with the extreme angle since they don't turn. It's using the 4 wheel drive that puts stress on them with the extreme angle. That's a difference between a Toyota and Nissan IFS (I think). I'd imagine that after enough time and stress from the increase angle the boots will rip and your CVs will eat themselves up.

fubarred choke?

What's the difference in the controls through the years? My '87 has the controls on the blinker lever and dash switch, but mine doesn't shut off or do anything when I signal.

www.myspace.com/venomwebb

That's Yakima for ya...gang town of Washington haha Vancouver isn't that bad