Diesel Boy

When they rebuilt the motor they wouldn't have cleaned the old blowby oil from the turbo pipe. I tell ya, it is just an acumulation of oil vapour caused by blow by. A diesel no matter how new or old has a heavy amount of blow by. It is very common in Terrano's, take a close look at jumpers pics and avatar, you can see the oil around his pipes seeping through the mud in his engine bay. Clean the pipes out and make sure the clamps are tight. Get the EGR dissconnected at some stage in the future. The turbo will be fine, it would blow billows of blue or white smoke if it was shot. Trust me, they are a hitachi turbo, and they are almostr indestructable!!!!! Its $700 for a rebuild kit for them. If you live near Hamilton, take it to Turbo Diesel and Automotive in Frankton, they know there Nissan motors!!!!

Central Otago , NZ. It was an Offroad-Express.com organised trip i believe. Rest of the Pic's Here

Hey Jumper, what are you paying for the Cooper STT'S?? How do they compare price wise to the MTR?? I like the look of the STT's, slighly more aggresive than the MTR, but with more side wall tread than the BFG. Being a Cooper tyre i would have thought it would be pretty pricey. I can get the MTR's for $300.

1989 Nissan GQ Patrol/Safari That is an awsome job you did with the SAS!!! I didn't realise that you had to swap the diff head round though!!!! My Safari will have a small amount of Pathfinder in it soon, the Rear LSD from the Pathfinder fits my front diff, so together with my Detroit in the back, and the tweaked up LSD i might start to get a little ground back on those rock crawling boys

Better side wall tread, wear slightly better, and the guys on outerlimits4x4 have convinced me

MTR!!!!

Haha, you'l have to post some pics when you get the new tyres on, it'll be one of the few in NZ!!!!!

Hey. I should just point out know that i understand what you are trying to say but you have explained it back to front and probably the wrong way round as well!!! What you are saying is: 1: When you start the engine from cold, the fan is drawing air through the radiator, the fan clutch is engaged. 2: Sometimes the fan stops drawing, or rather the fan clutch dis-engages the fan, after half a mile or more, but on other occasions keeps working for alot longer, even though the engine temp is still cold. 3: You hear a squeaking sound when the fan clutch is engaged and the fan is working. When it stops, the squeak goes away. Am i right with that?? I would be instantly suspicious of the fan clutch. Was it an aftermarket one or genuine?? Try re-tentioning your fan belt, you should have around 10mm of movement in the belt at its longest point between pullys. The top of the belt should also sit up above the top lip of all of the pullys it goes through, not sunk down inside the "V", If the top of the belt is level or lower than the top lip of the pully, its time to replace. That could be your squeak. Jagged edges on your fan blades could also be wistleing as the fan spins under load, but i doubt it!!! The fans not catching on the radiator shroud any where is it???

I presumed you must have been trying to reverse back accross after not managing to climb out on the opposite back and got stuck in the loose shingle!!!!

Just a thought, if your radiator hose seemed fine when you put it back on after you had the engine out, it may indicate its time for a new radiator cap, it may have let the pressure in the cooling system get to high.

Just out of interest for you, it is normal to have more free play in the steering box with the wheels turned than with them straight ahead. Not a whole lot more though. I would get your wheel alignment redone, they may have messed it up when they set it after your crash. Following/wandering over the road is a sure sign the camber is out, probably on the negative side. Get that checked before you do any replacing of parts i reckon!!!

Saying that, my Simex's measured at 33.4" and they worked with a 2" sus lift, with some rubbing, so give it a go, if they not going to be your daily running around tyres, you can live with it. Just buy the darn things and start making them fit i reckon. It can be done.

Albundy, the U-Boat comander!!! Two words: BODY LIFT!!!!!!

It would be sweeeeeeeeet!!!! There's plenty off power there to turn them. Hell, people put 33's on 2.8 diesel Hilux's and we all know how sporty those motors are!!!!

A combination of slowing down on the brakes and dropping down through the gears is always going to be the winner here

Wow. Have you ever thought to dyno it?? It would be intersting!! Thats the biggest thing with a Japanese diesel, get them breathing properly, and then they will perform. You have gone all the way with that one, so performance improvements on the dyno would definatly be note worthy!!!!! Pete.

Do you have the electric mirrors in you Path?? If you pull the control unit off with the toggle leaver thingy for adjusting the mirrors, the place for your hard body style E.Brake is behind that. Cool huh!!! Well thats in the ones with the square shaped dash any way, is that up to 93 or 94??, not sure Pete.

Oil spray underneath for the salt??? Reuse old engine oil mixed with kerosene in an old spray gun. Thats what i do, they don't use salt over here, but the paint on the chassis gets worn off very quicky due to the 4wheeling, then in the salt air, rusts straight away. Oil spray every few months seems to work well.

Not sure, but a pair could mean one to dissconect the front and the other to dissconect the rear. You shouldn't notice swaying at high way speeds, the sway refered to is the body and chassis rolling or leaning over on the springs around corners. Sway is more comonly refered to as "body roll". This alone will not cause the vehicle to roll completely over. What usually happens is people used to driving cars, get in a 4x4 and when the come to a corner feel the body rolling/leaning over on the suspension around a corner, get a fright, so try to correct which swaps the loading to the other side, which in turn can lead to rolling over. Cornering alone with out sway bars will not lead to a roll over. The tyres will still let go of the road first, in which case your chances of rolling over in a 4x4 are high if this happens anyway. Early range rovers came out with coils all round and no sway bars, uni mogs have no sway bars. Pathfinders are no where near as bad due to the IFS and torsion bar set up in the front, limiting movement of the body/chassis to a couple of inches either way.

Here lies your problem: You bought one to may dissconnects. You only need to dissconnect one side of the sway bar to regain your articulation. By leaving the other side connected, it holds the bar in place. Simple. Thats how all the dissconects work that come out on vehicles as standard. Pete.

Wow, 60%!!! I agree, leave no rock unturned for sure!!!!!

Rancho shocks are so cheap and good, why would you bother??? Electric adjustables are not all that, in my opinion at least!!! I may be wrong, but the standard shocks are only oil filled, not gas pressurised as well.

Ok, it condensation/steam forming in the exhaust due to the cooler external temperatures. The strong smell is the rich mixture the computer feeds the engine when its cold to aid start up. Exactly the same as in the old carby cars, when you pulled the choke.

Smoke or condensation/steam i wonder????

Go for it!!!!!