Cuong Nguyen

'93 smaller openings '02 larger openings older vs newer straighter tubes Slightly different casting but insignificant 93 vs 02

Comparison of the 93 4x4 valve body (left) and 02 nissan Xterra 2wd valve body (right) you will notice that the oil pipes have less bends on the Xterra than the Pathfinder. Some oil ports are enlarged on the xterra and the solenoids are slightly different. ALso the accumulator things have a nipple for the bolt threads. I'll post more later.

A better thing to do is to hook up a good oil pressure gauge to troubleshoot your problem. I think if you have the wire disconnected, you won't have a light on your dash... Mine is not hooked up and I do not have a light but I plan on installing a dedicated oil pressure gauge.

The differences are the dash, perhaps a BPT valve on the EGR valve, and electronics speed sensor but you can just swap yours onto the transfercase. Also, nissan switched to the roundtooth belt sometime in mid 93 year so the cam sprockets are different depending on when the 93 was built.

You should really just make one thread instead of multiple. Tapatalk is quirky here so although you get a message saying it didn't post, it really did. Just refresh and you will see it. Like we mentioned in the old thread, it could be a bad connection to your MAF sensor. Check for corrosion on the plug or breaks in the wire. Rarely it would be fuel filter unless you pump from a crappy gas station that has water in the gas or your gas tank is rusted inside out. Dumb question but you do have gas in the tank right? Are your vacuum lines good and not rotted? Vent hose for the gas tank is not plugged up? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You can find it on the passenger fender well. It's a roundish can with a rubber fuel hose going from the top of it to the fuel rail over the passenger side engine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I have my old MC if you want. It was brand new 7 years ago after I swapped to a bigger mc. Now that was a waste lol. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

But did you bleed the abs module? I didn't think I saw you say so. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

What king suggested and you will be fine Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

bad seal (large clearance) lowers oil pressure which could equate to poor flow. Also, if the crank bearings are bad, the oil holes in the crank could be plugged and restrict flow to the rod journals.

There's a 10 mm bolt in the back holding the passenger head down and one in front of the driver side. Also, there are dowels to keep the head in place so you have to pull up.

What the oil strainer screen on the pick up tube doesn't stop, the oil filter will. Pull the crankshaft girdle off and inspect the damage on the bearings and journal

Oh dang! I haven't seen one of those in a long time! It's possibly a loose wire or a short in the harness.

Pull apart the pieces in the oil pump and see if there's a piece of that drain plug lodged into it. It doesn't take much for the gear pump to get jammed up. You might be lucky if you didn't burn up the bearings. Best thing you can do is be yourself and used oil pump throw it on and crank the motor over also you want to have the old pressure gauge hooked up to make sure you have adequate oil pressure Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/ Just keep wacking it from the backside to break the seal from the gasket. No need to remove the crank seal.

It doesn't have to be full of oil. Generally on most my builds I pack it full of vaseline/petroleum jelly. Doing this you get rid of the air pocket and instant vacuum is created as the pump gear rotates. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I'm with silverton on this.

I have never seen one fail but like they say, never say never. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Fuel lines hooked up right? Injectors plugged in the right order? Make sure all the vacuum lines are all hooked up correctly.

remove pump, make a tool that will fit in the pump keyway to spin the pump using a drill. sit pump in tube of oil. let drill spin, and see if oil pumps out. It's late and I cant think of anything else at the moment.

I researched the supposed RE4R01a-HD. From what I gathered, it refers to the Supercharged VG33ER and VQ35DE.

I cracked the code! I spent the last couple of days trying to get as much info as I could in regards with the RE4R01a and finally figured out where the poster in the link got his information. It was an excerpt from a 2005 ATSG seminar regarding Nissan parts interchange: https://www.atsg.us/atsg/skin/frontend/default/atsg/corrections/05blue5corrected.pdf It didn't feel right for me so I did the legwork and researched it. What also gave me a hint that something was not right was a thread I recalled somewhere where a guy had went to a transmission shop and compared the rebuild kits for an Xterra and the pathfinder. All identical parts in both kits which is rather strange. The So called "HD" designation is only for the VG33ER Frontiers, Xterras, and the VQ35DE pathfinders. That is only what I can deduce. Nissan did some fine tuning of the RE401a transmission with the arrrival of the R50 (unibody pathfinder beginning in 96). It wasn't until 99 when Nissan/Jatco settled on the guts of the transmission to be used for the upcoming Xterra and Frontier release. During that time, Nissan/Jatco was still tuning/upgrading the transmission for the arrival for the supercharged variant of the VG33E motor which came out in 2001 in the Frontiers and 2002 for the Xterra and as well as the VQ35DE in the 2001 Pathfinders. So through the years, Nissan/Jatco played around with the torque converter stall speeds, valve springs lengths and diameters and increased the number of clutch plates to handle the extra power I still want to know if the valve bodies stayed the same or changed. Perhaps someone with FAST can figure it out?

I didn't have to deal with your issue because I was two wheel drive. Removing the torsion bar was easy from what I remember. Lift the front up to take off tension. Back off the adjuster nuts on top of the rear torsion bar crossmember. You might want to mark where the torsion bars line up for reference. Remove. Remove bolts securing front anchors Pull out. Done. Helps to let the anchors and bolts soak in pb blaster. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

All the transmission shops run about that price. The RE401RA transmission was used in various cars for over a decade. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/catalog/nissan-infiniti-transmission-electronics-solenoids-156-1.html Also give Rob a PM. He can get you great prices. His handle is Alkhoril or something here on the board. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yeah majority of the regional sites are dying or on life support. New age I guess Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk