SilverPath

Ive got 31x10.5s on my rig and its stock height Granted they are not MTRS just BFG AT and not on the stock rim, but I like them both on and off road. Only place I rubbed was at fuil lock, and a hairdryer fixes that real quick.

Lately Ive been working on my Spyder Originally it came with a 4.3 merc but when I received it, it was empty so I decided to get a 260 Mercruiser(350) with an alpha 1 unit, since in USCG rules I/O boats don't have power restrictions. Anyway been tearing the 350 down and I found 7 gallons of Dijon mustard Which unfortunatly made me start looking for a crack and I found it.... The gray line near the top is the crack, there is also a large bulge to the right of the numbers Thankfully chevy 350 blocks are dime a dozen.

How many watts are they? For four I wouldn't be to concerned about it. With my 10 55watt lights going I don't notice it all that much for a voltage drop.

I finally got the stock flange off when I had more time today, I can't believe its been 1.5 months almost since I asked but alas, its off. It has now turned into one of those projects that never ends, as I was mounting the tires back on and doing the final torque I snapped a lug dang torque wrench...Not the end of the world but its just one of those days. Heh

They make them for gassers, Though the only pathfinder I think they make them for is the R51.

Installing new springs on the old struts may get you by, as the new ones people install are the same length. You'll blow out your shocks though when you get some good extension/flex, since they are meant for stock height

x2 Go buy some specter parts and make your own. Cost me around $25 and got the same end result. If you want a true cold air intake, you can get/make a snorkel

It pulls from the driver side fender, though given that his sub 50 went through more than a splash of water while still running, I'll believe it works. Nice temp mod!

I would really look for second hand R50 flares. New you will be paying a pretty penny like $100 per. Took a bit but I found some for $20 that were in decent shape. Now I just need to actually mount them. As the paint has some serious road rash.

Hey now, I never said I was in a hurry. I'm not travelling anywhere except to work for now.

Yea no joke, BFH is needed. I had to wrap it up for today but Ill try again next week when I have more time.

Ive been reading on here but haven't seen an answer yet. What are guys using to remove your stock flanges? I have the nuts off, and from what I gather the first time they come off is a PITA. Do you just jam something between the flange and hub? This SOB is on good. heh

Normally when you add grease to zerks, you pump until you see the old grease being pressed out and you begin to see new grease. Though, I suppose that could be different on a driveshaft. To eliminate it being thrown all over the underbody just wipe off the excess.

How big of a tire will fit under a lifted WD-21? Will you help me Nunya??? >> <<

Here is a small article on the differences http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=200787

I think they make bags for R50s, I swear Ive seen them somewhere. I know they make them for WDs, they are relatively cheap also. a pair for the rear is like 80 bucks

I remember having to drive from Butte,MT ~11 hr drive in the pathy to get back home. All I remember wanting was cruise control..... Nothing like a leg cramp 10 hours in, to make sure your awake!

The one behind the cat is easy to get to especially compared to the pre cat sensor. You need to be a skinny armed person that is also double jointed to even think about it.... The only one I had go out figures it would be that one...Good luck

After the lift, there will be no problem shoving some 31" meats under your rig at stock width. You may at the least have a slight rub at full lock. To fix that all you need is a heat gun and you can rearrange the plastic fenderwell. I along with several others are running 31s with no lift so you will be fine. Good luck and take pics!

Im not sure about the new R50s but I have to assume they are close enough. I ran a huge 0 gauge cable through a fender hole on my left front fender and behind all the plastic crap there are 2 holes penetrating the firewall, 1 for the e-cable ( I think its the e-cable, regardless its a cable) and next to it is another grommeted hole that leads to our fuse box area. I punched a hole through the larger boot and shoved my cable through, been working great so far (about a year). I don't have any pics of it, but the those crappy plastic pins come out fast in the wheel well to check. This is where I intend to run my roof light cables aswell.

W3rd, I love it Havent had a problem with it yet.

Here is 5523's write up, Timing Belt P.S. follow it step by step and its real easy to do.

Weathertech sells them. I have not purchased one yet from them, but the window rain guards, and floor mats I have are top notch. WeatherTech cargo liner ...I guess your looking for one to span the back seats. Ohwell, the weathertech is another option for you.

Amazing how a good wack helps things, I had a tickin noise under my dash when I accelerated, a good wack and it was good Speaking of which, I haven't had to wack my dash in awhile.....ohwell

It is not a hard job at all. Can be done in an afternoon or morning depending who you are, there is a guide on here that makes it real simple to do yourself. Grab a case(or 2) of your favorite beverage and go to town