alexrex20

the only way to be sure is to email BFGoodrich. that tire place may just be trying to sell you 31s or 33s because they had no 32s in stock.

so measure your own truck and give them to him.

i'm going to at least try without front sways once i get the new struts/coils. i'll just run them with the end links disconnected. if i don't like it, i'll connect them. if it's not too bad, i'll remove the sway completely.

i was under the impression that you would market them for WD21s and R50s? that's what your first post said in that linked thread. i understand there's a bigger demand for WD21 pieces, but we need some lovin' as well!

in my experience, shops charge a premium for on-car brake service. at that cost, i'd rather just buy new rotors and install them myself. it is a huge PITA but really not that difficult or time-consuming. it should only take 30-45min each side, including bearing repack (not required, but recommended if you're already that far), caliper bleed, etc. that's a lot longer than the 3min it takes on other trucks, so it all depends on our laziness, cheapness, and the shop's costs for labor. back to engine braking, i think i was misinterpreting your post as you using engine braking for all braking situations. around houston, the steepest incline is usually the entrance to the wal-mart parking lot, so it was a bit over the top of my head when you said you "always use it." god forbid i'm in the mountains, i always use engine braking to help maintain speed while not overheating the brakes.

fwiw, i haven't see any increase in mpg since i installed my hubs. but like dean, fuel economy was not a driving force behind my decision to buy.

well, i'd have to pay shipping regardless, whether it's from you or a retailer, so i don't mind that. can you PM me your asking price?

well, with your hubs unlocked, it's bad to engage 4x4 at 60mph. and yes, 2LO was very handy when trying to back a heavy trailer up a steep incline at an angle.

probably worse, lol

not only is it an oxymoron, but your computer won't like you very much if you put it into Auto-4WD with the hubs unlocked.

by having two johnny joint with opposite threading (left-hand and right-hand), all you need to do is loosen the jam nut, and twist the center section. because of the opposite threads, it will either lengthen or shorten itself. with only one johnny joint, the link will have to be completely removed to be adjusted. two johnny joints allow adjustment without being removed.

apparently i like your apples also!

well, my uncle's coworker told me that your grandpa is wrong. unless you can replicate a scenario without fault or deviation, many times for a control, then neither you nor your grandpa can determine whether or not the engine braking was the reason his ass was saved on that single specific incident. as for knowing if the truck is at its maximum... if it is a panic situation and you are trying to get all you can from your brakes (which you claim are in good working condition), then you are also at the limit of adhesion from your tires. but, it's obvious you don't believe me or anyone else. so in your stubbornness, go ahead and test your truck. hell, throw it in reverse to see if that works. just don't kill yourself.

any update on the pricing?

the brakes ALONE are powerful enough to reach MAXIMUM AVAILABLE stopping performance. what part of that do you not understand? if you're already at that maximum, what the hell is throwing it into 1st going to do? i doubt the transmission will even shift into 1st quick enough to make a difference. if anything, it will lockup the rear tires and make it even worse. engine braking is great for preventing brake overheat in the mountains, or when pulling trailers. but it's not worth a damn if you're in a panic braking situation and you still can't stop. at that point, either brace for impact or swerve.

i'm very interested as well. please get back to us with pricing!

i don't get it. are you trying to sell them? are you not in Ft. Collins? ...because i want them!

that's not necessary. we already know the answer. i outlined it above, but i will reiterate: if your brakes are already capable of locking up the tires, then you do not need more powerful brakes - nor do you need assistance from engine braking. [that concept makes me lol.] you can have the most powerful brakes in the world, but if you're running on donuts, you will have longer braking distances than an identical vehicle with less powerful brakes, but grippier tires.

he doesn't know what he's talking about, so that's the best response he can muster. the quicker we all just accept that, the easier it will be for the big boys to talk. it all comes down to how much grip your tires can provide. if you can already lock them up and/or engage ABS, then you've reached maximum braking potential. you're right: the absolute quickest way to stop is threshold braking. in theory, you would be slowing the vehicle and the engine, but really, the engine can probably slow down much quicker than the vehicle, so i doubt it would hinder overall braking performance. upgrading to aftermarket pads and rotors, or calipers, or whatever, will not shorten braking distances, if your brakes are already capable of locking the tires. what they do afford, however, are resistance to fade, consistency, and improved modulation. the only things touching the ground are your tires.

i never said it's bad for the engine. it's bad for the drivetrain.

yes, rotors DO warp. that's why it's common to have them turned, where the face is machined flat.

yes, they are indeed very generous.

the brighter the bulb, the shorter its lifespan. that's a general rule of thumb with any halogen or incandescent bulb. does your wife's mazda have daytime running lights? if so, the DRLs may be the low-beam bulb. that could explain the seemingly quick bulb 'failure.' if the bulb is on, it's very slowly eating away at their life expectancy rating. as you can imagine, driving around with the bulbs on 24/7 will very quickly burn them out.

do you also open your doors to increase aerodynamic drag whenever it comes time to stop? i heard that also helps with braking. at least you're right that the Pathfinder/QX4 only has one set of real brakes. engine braking relies solely on the inertia of the rotating assembly, and its desire to be at rest, to slow down the vehicle. surely if you manually downshift your automatic, you know that if you rely solely on engine braking to slow the vehicle, they aren't worth a damn on their own. they do slow the vehicle, but hardly enough to be used for routine braking, and not nearly enough to make a difference in the normal wear/tear of your 'real' brakes, which actually do convert kinetic energy into heat energy. so are you arguing that when you just let off the gas and leave it in D/OD, and the throttle plate is shut, the injectors are still spraying fuel into the combustion chamber? ha! i didn't know you were the jokester! you're also pretty clever, but you're not clever enough to fool the ECU's TPS and MAF. you know that shudder feeling, when it finally downshifts into 2nd gear, and it feels like you just stepped on the brake pedal? that's not engine braking that you're feeling; it's the entire drivetrain binding and twisting and torqueing as you force it to slow down. it's effectively the same thing as downshifting a manual without rev-matching, and without using the clutch. you do not have air brakes, nor do you have a jake brake. engine braking should be used only as a last resort.

another option would be to slam on the parking brake until it locks up the rear tires, put the transmission in neutral, floor the throttle then shift into reverse, and release the parking brake. your rear tires will begin spinning backwards. granted, the laws of physics still dictate you will have no increase in stopping performance, but it's equally harsh on your drivetrain as your method, and arguably more fun to do!