fleurys

I guess this works for the tranny plate, but would'nt that be almost impossible to do for the front skid ?? I mean, mine hooks on under the rad support and the other side on the sub frame...

please do....Thanks alot..

Call them back and say you're evaluating these coils for four wheeler's magazine test rig... I bet they'll call you back the bast**&d!

For my skid plate project, I might reconsider the oil filter window placement according to where the oil filter is on a 3.3. On my 3.5, it is kind of on the left side. That's why my window is off-center a bit to the left... I would like someone to take a good picture of the underneath of a 3.3 so I can clearly see the placement... I want to do a skid that will be good for both... Tks.

I don't have the official specs because I had the shop measure the threads etc... but basically it is something like this : Countersunk, Metric, Small thread, Stainless steel 304 M8 and M6 I beleive...but not sure on the M... Here a picture.. :

hahaha...ho you're in for some quality time under your pathfinder .... I had the same issue...I ended up being able to remove all 4..yes 4 broken bolts with drilling without damaging the threads...but... I averaged about 1:30h per bolt... At the end, I could'nt stand looking at it anymore...All I was seeing is more work to do... At least with 9 holes for my skid, you could get away with not taking them all out...

That's a good question, but I have no idea... What I can tell you is that my plate attaches itself to the sub-frame using 4 bolts (2 small and 2 big ). These bolts screw right in in the threaded holes of the path. I don't know how the AC transmission skid attachs to the spash skid. If you can, send me a good picture of the ac transmission skid, where it attaches to the splash one and I'll try to help you figure it out.. S.

Everything is setup except the ... fasteners!... I was promised to have them around this week (that makes 4 weeks of waiting). I will let everybody know when it is ready... Soon ..very soon... As for the shipping, I'm not worried... the plate is very light...about 3x less than steel...be patient, you won't regret it

Dimple (or slots) in a disk actually act like a slicer.. It removes small ammount of material each time you use them. They will work great, but they will last you less. here's an exerpt from wiki: "Discs may also be slotted, where shallow channels are machined into the disc to aid in removing dust and gas. Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas, water, and de-glaze brake pads. Some discs are both drilled and slotted. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces."

**FIXED*** I wrote to kyb...surprisignly, they have tech support even on saturday....well, the guy tells me that it needs to go down lower on the shaft... Well all along, I did not wanted to force anything, so I never thought of that.. And the hole in the bumpstop is far smaller then the strut shaft, but it still goes... Here are the pictures for anyone following with the same issue... It was my first attempt at strut "building"... So I learned... Here is the strut, if you start from the top there is 3 shaft diameter... We'll call them d1,d2,d3 1 being the threaded one. So when you put the bumstop, it basically stop sitting on d2, because the hole is not even as big as d2...so the problem was coming from there... I thought this was it's resting place. You actually have to force it down to the main shaft (d3) Once i put everything else on top, I got this : One thing to know is that you also have to force the bumstop into the upper spring seat. I good deal of convincing must be applied :-) This is what it looks like from under have a look at the bumstop hole and compare it to the main shaft (d3) diameter...now you know why i never thought this was going there...

Hey guys.. yesterday me and a friend spent a good 10 hours to install the following : 1) yakima load warrior cargo rack 2) hi-lift jack with mounts 3) tire carrier (yakima) 4) PIAA 520ATP lights (2) 5) Cobra 175wxst 6) wilson antenna I took a few pictures and hope you'll enjoy it. I have decided, after long thinking, to not drill a hole in the roof. I went , instead, with the under the rubber strip along the windshield. I'm very happy with the result as only a few inches of cable actually shows on the side. As for the lights, I copied the idea of govol74n ( http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...+mount++antenna ) and I am very happy with the result. I have put a layer of rubber underneath each mount so I'm not worried about scratching the rack bar and introducing a new way for rust to enter... (Rust is a real problem here..) So everything is SS and the look is just what I wanted. I decided to pass 4 14gauge up to the lights. 2 for the positive and 2 grounds. So each pair of lights uses 2 wire instead of 4. We also combined the switch wiring so that I can use only 1 switch for the 4 lights. The light switch : I wanted something that would look a bit like the ARB switch..and after soooooooo much searching on the web I found these : http://www.daystarweb.com/productlisting.p...eep+Accessories , They are under jeep accessories (I know, I know), but they fit fantastically in the R50 dash. The Cobra. I went with this unit mainly for the size of it. I don't think you can beat it. I have also hidden the remote box underneath the center console where the shifter is. A flsuh fitted the connector in the center console : It almost look like factory installed :-) The antenna : I went with the wilson 3 feet and I used the firestik antenna cable http://www.firestik.com/Catalog/MU-8R18.htm . The fact that the connector is two pieces helped a lot to pass it through the firewall. I went the australian look on the bullbar...I just love it ! I have put also a picture of my home made gps/car diagnostic/further project. For a long time i wanted a gps but I was not satisified with the screen sizes. And the one that had a nice screen were expensive. I happen to work in computers and got my hand on used fujitsu tablet pc with touchscreen. So I decided to create my own. I'm running Iguidance software in conjunction with a usb gps http://www.canadagps.com/CanmoreGT-730F.html . put all this in a usb hub and voila. The next thing is the diagnostic software. Since this is a full fledge pc I can use it for multiple uses... So I went with this : http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/pcmscan/index.php , it enables me to have a real time figure of how the truck is running and what is going on. At the same time , I learn a lot with this tool (especially the o2 sensors behavior etc..) I will be needing this anyway for a futur project.. To hold it there, I use the proclip system : http://www.proclipusa.com So here it is...Sorry for the long post .... here's a few pictures of the day and this is the link for all of them : http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/st...mview=slideshow So next step is going to be the lift and tires...now I have to go back in bed...I hurt to places that I did't even know there was muscles there ! Also, A hugh THANKS to my friend Martin who did all of the wirring despite a screwed up shoulder..everything worked the first time and I was not even surprised...MERCI ENCORE MARTIN!

WRONG... IT Clearly states on the shock to mount the boot on the up side. The dial for the firmness should be at the bottom.. If you mount it up side down, I'm sure you not helping for the oil galley inside... S.

OK... Bought everything to pre-mount the kyb struts and the ac coils for my incoming lift. I thought by doing so I would save time...now I'm losing time ! First , Here's what I bought: 1) KYB Strut (goos part number for my year...just don't remember it now) 2) KYB Bumpstop/boot 2) Nissan upper seat 3) Nissan strut bearing 4) Nissan plate (with the 3 threaded studs) 5) Nissan strut tower mount 6) Nissan spacer (Thin paper isolator) Now I'm simply doing a test fit without the spring just to accomodate myself with the order the things goes in. Well, when all part are assembled, the strut shaft is actually BELOW a 1/4 inch or so from the strut tower mount !!! here's the pictures : I know, that it was talked about once on the forum : http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...strut++bumpstop The solution is said to cram them on....now my english is not THAT good...what does cram means ?? Any ideas ?? I guess I could always grind some of the white bumpstop... Taking the old bumpstop is not an option since I do not want to have to wait to dismantle the old one to assemble the new setup... Tks..

Ijust researched a bit about opinions about shock boot and alot say that they do not put it because they might trap water and mud and therefore start to rust the shaft. This is their main reason not to use them. I say you put them while leaving an escape hole at the bottom (I'll show a picture soon..) for the water to get out. So you get best of both world... I mean the shaft is still exposed but barely and if you go in water then it does not get trap...

Got the answer....pretty fast actually... here it is....drum roll..... Hello Steve, At this point we do not have any half-shaft available to sell only driveshafts. We are working on half-shafts but they are not available yet. Thank You Pedro Narvaez Applications Engineer Cornay Company (303) 651-9099 Ext. 114 Ha well...At least they're working on it....so there is "some" light at the end of the tunnel.... I'll be checking on them once in a while...So much for my trophy truck !

The 9000 are gas charged.. So you would need to remove them and make sure they decompress when you compress them... I recently bought 2 and 1 of them was DOA with this exact problem.... If they come back to extended after compressing them you're ok.... I would also measure the time it takes to come back to extended state using the 9 settings. Then if both shocks do not take the same ammount of time to extend with the same settings, then you know one of them has less gas than the other...meaning the seal internally has degraded or starting to fail...

I just did... I wrote directly to cornay... Will let you the details when I get some... It's probably going to be ridiculously expensive, but I just have to know... I mean, it would open the door to the next level of lift for the r50 without having to go sub frame drop... Anyway, we'll see.... What did you think of the video ?? man I would pay alot to be sitting next to this guy while he drives the sh**t out of this beast ! Cheers. S.

It's always a question of compromise... What kind of compromise are you willing to go for ?? On my part, I did not wanted to spend big money on new coils and re-use old strut mount and bearings etc... After reading a few places (other then npora) that strut mount failed (catastrophically), i decided to not take any chance and go with all new parts. So for me , I saved a little bit more and went with GR2 struts, AC coils, GR-2 Boots and bump stop, Nissan OEM Strut mount, strut bearings, plate and upper seat. Yes it costs more, but I hate doing things twice.. SO if my shocks eventually crash on me, I know it's not going to be because I tried to cut corners when I did my lift.... Just my way of thinking...

I Saved for this ...My time has come . I dont drink, I dont smoke, I dont do drugs and I donèt like casinos....I have to spend it somewhere ! hahaa

I did not know the cv could move inward 3 inches !.wow...I guess looking at this shows that it could still work no ? http://www.cornay.com/videos.cfm?video_id=4 (HERE FIRST!) IFS my kinda way ! http://www.cornay.com/videos.cfm?video_id=6 http://www.cornay.com/videos.cfm?video_id=7 http://www.cornay.com/index.cfm?video_id=8 http://www.cornay.com/products.cfm

You did the right thing... You probably made the error of installing the boot too far at the bottom. Therefore, you did not leave a place for the liquid to evacuate...That is why the bottom of the boot has 2 slots... You have to tie them in a way where there is two small opening for exactly this purpose. You do not want water to stay there and start slowly siping in between the seal to eventually contaminating the inside of your shocks... Whit the holes you made, it will let air come in and dry the whole thing...hopefully it was not there long enough to start doing damage to the seal.

Thanks but it's not really a drive shaft... I guess I could ask someone to custom frabicate input yoke, then snap them in the cornay joint etc..., but I was looking more for a complete and finished solution..

Not sure what you mean...What I see is that this joint is fully articulated, the contrary of fixed...

If You're like me you'll like to read in advance what needs to be done...so I wrote to arb long time ago to get the install procedure for the RD107 and RD135 since they are not on there web site... I have put them here if you want them. http://www.4shared.com/file/96362467/418f7...2135_RD135.html http://www.4shared.com/file/96362453/6dcfe...2107_RD107.html Happy reading !

yes and no... I have another thread in here explaining how PORC (performance off road center) stole 2200$ from me by never sending the lockers... Eventually got my money back from the CC company and bought only the rear one (RD-135) from another place on march 9th.... The locker is on it's way to my house since yesterday....so I should get it within 7 to 10 days... I will be going to rock spyder within 2 or 3 weeks to get it installed.