fleurys

Yes , I will be doing a 1 or 2 pieces up to the transfer case with lateral support . I'm looking to try with HDPE 1/2" Plastic sheet. I have the material at home..just need to finally finish with the first one...This saturday should be the decisive one. This should be sturdy enough with just enough flex into it not to bend permanently on big obstacles..No rust again, easily modifiable with hand tools and also light... I'll continue with my theme of ss hardware and countersunk bolts....nice flat belly :-) I'll also give a shot at rock sliders with some special extras on it... Big summer for me on the horizon.. S.

yes exactly.. You will have to also remove the "H" brace that's underneath the plastic skid. S.

I agree, but consider yourself lucky... I ordered mine also and the shipping is costing me 127$US.... once converted in canadian, these springs will have cost me on the border line of 700$ !.....They better be gold plated for that price...hahaha

wow...when I read the warranty conditions I was sure you were f**ked... I mean " The finsh of all chrome plated products is not covered after the product is installed" huuhhh haahh ok...as long as I don't install it, the finish is under warranty ??? OMG !... Anyway, I would have lost money on the outcome of this one....looks promising...

You won't be disapointed...hence, just the weight makes the shipping cost go down by half....and since i"m on the same side of the border as you are... S.

Yes, that's my goal. The problem I have right now is getting the fasteners. Beleive it or not, the M10 stainless steel with small thread is a special order and I have to have it made. So I'm back another 3 weeks. I went, just for fun, at nissan to get a few of the non countersunk ones just to test fit all the fitment holes, and the bolts cost me almost 3$ each...! ouch!... So for now, this post is just to let everybody that were maybe goig to purchase a skid plate for their r50, that there will soon be an alternative to the AC ones. Not that there's anything wrong with them, but it became ludicrous for me to have it shipped to my location. The price of shipping was almost identical to the price of the skid plate... So then, I decided that I would design my own . With the help of alot of people here, I have designed what I think is the best skid plate for me. Hopefully, others will also think the same. Here's a few keypoints : 1) Light 2) rust resistant 3) SS hardware 4) rubber barrier for rattle and rust transfer between frame and skidplate 5) all bolts are countersunk in the skid (no more broken head bolts) 6) Unique window for oil filter access. Access the oil filter in 30Seconds.. 7) more points of attachements I'll probably need the help of someone that has a 96-99 to make sure the holes fit... I don't have the final number and if I count my time, then this skidplate id expensive haha...I<ve been working on this for the last 4 saturdays and it's the third time that I,ll have to correct the angle on it...I Can't tell you a definitive number, but I'll try to be competitve with the AC ones, eventhough it's a totally different skidplate.. I personnaly think that you can't compare the 2.... Cheers !

In french we say : chose promise, chose due.... In other word, I talked about it in afew post, now here it is... The fitment is almost done, still have to unbend a little bit since it is not perfect. The holes placement is final and will give 9 point of attachements. They will not be all necessary but will greatly be appreciated by those who have some bolts broken in the threads... ( I speak by expereince on that one ! :-) ) The whole skid is made of 1/4" aluminum eventhough I was originally going to make it in steel. I have witness a sledgehammer test to 1/4" aluminum vs 1/4" steel vs 3/16th" steel and I can say that for all the benefit of the aluminum, the difference of damage sustain by the splate is almost identical as the 1/4" steel. It is also more resistant (by a good margin) compared to 3/16" steel. Anyway, I'll redo the test and film it for everyone to see..1/4" aluminum is far from fragile ! I have also decided to have a strip of rubber where the plate meets the frame to prevent rust transfer. All the hardware will be Stanless Steel countersunk bolts. When I'm ready, i'll give you all the details about them....Ho yes...They weight 3 X LESS then the equivalent in steel.. To give you an idea of the size, the hole in the center is a 6" square... Here you go...

WHAT HAVE I DONE !

I don't have any information for you...I'm just writing to show some support...Hang in there...I hope you find some sort of solution that won't screw up your budget too much.. S.

"Try your search again"

ok now i feel dumb. ..thanks for the feeling ....i guess i'll have to better keep track of the threads out there...

Excuse my ignorance, but I always tought that a pathfinder with a 3.5 manual or automatique has the same basic engine. I understand that the power rating is different on both and always tought it was either the cams that were more tuned for HP instead of torque or then a change in the intake runner.... BUt if the manual have no power valves screws, then how do the butterfly (round peice of metal) is attached to the rod in the intake then ??

I just received mine the exact same way 2 days ago.. (1 of them being uncompressed with the white tierap broken and the shaft gone through the box...) But At least, the shipper had put the strut box within another bigger one. So this prevent most of the dust and/or crap to stick to the shaft. I aggree with vengful, I was not able to compressed them by end, but could compress them if put enough force when having one end of the struts, let's say on the floor.. I would say, recompress them for the time being, until you're ready to install and before doing that, make sure to remove any particles that sticked to the shaft..you do not want anything coming in contact with the seal and causing a premature failure on the long run...

Have a good one..xx

duhh ??

Ho My God!.... With this, I would be too embarrassed now to lift the hood in public ! A leaf blower for a supercharger ! you gotta be kiding me ! What's next ? a microwave oven in the glovebox ? build something cheaper like a big straw going from the intake up to the front seat, then ask your co-driver to blow his arse off to gain some hp when street racing.... hahahaha

X2 .. hahaha

Good part numbers for the GR2 for 1998 and for the rancho, if you want to find them at powerandplay.com (it was a bit tricky!), you'll have to enter RS999010 in the "part number window" You're welcome...I know EXACTLY how you feel.... Just looking at ebay lately for an even better deal for the rancho, I saw that they easily charge like 70 or 80USD just for the shipping (harghhh!) ... So i'm confident, these are the best deals for us in Canada... By the way, at powerandplay, they charge 15USD for the whole order, no matter the number of items...so if you have other things to buy (like hubs :-) ), then now is the time....no duties, free delivery, one time 15USD$ for the order... Too bad they don't carry ARB lockers (inside joke here...)

i can help here.... been doing quite a work at it lately... here's what you need... The kyb GR2 are available at http://www.autopartsway.ca/?gclid=CKLXz9G5npgCFQFvGgodC3PunQ for 99$ CAD AND free shipping to your door... You'll get the rancho from http://powerandplay.com/ for 103 USD BUT the shipping will cost you 15 $ US and you will not have to pay duty because these guys have warehouses in canada, so they ship the parts from there. cheers !

I have kinda of a humm sound that started on mine too but it's caused by my flexible exhaust pipe that's underneath... I have the same symptoms which is around 1500 1900 rpm then goes away higher than this... this is why i would thought it might be exhaust related..not pulley related.... have you listened to it while someone else was reving your rig or are you listening it from inside?? i know sometimes, if you're inside, you feel the noise is coming fromoneplace but really is notfrom there.... just my 2 cents..

This one looks very nice !! as for the valve screws, I don't think there's an easy way to check...but considering the ammount of damage ($$$) they can do if not done, I woulnd't even blink about veryfying myself or paying a mecanic an hour or 2 to have them done... changing an engine is not what i call an acceptable risk :-) On mine I was lucky..the owner was a mechanic at infiniti and he showed me the screws that he had just replaced the week before I bought it.... go nissan...i bet you won't regret it...

I would also suggest weathertech...not sure though if they ship to your place.... http://www.weathertech.com/store/mvproduct...5&Year=2003

i understand what you're saying...i'll just end up with this... do your research thoroughly and don't base yourself on what it looked like...it was not electrolysis in the strict term...you're right this has been proven that it takes more enery that it can create... I<ve research for more than 2 years this... I can understand why you feel this way... Do you know the circomstance of his death? with who he was and talking about what at the time. Did you see his dunebuggy? do you know what happened to it the week after his death ? ever looked at the xogen black box (that is patented)...wonder why they use it now to purify sewer water instead of using it in the auto industry ? find what happened in court when he tried to demonstrate his cell...you'll understand why he was declared guilty.. I can go on and on.... search for RAVI and dave lawton... do your homework first.... find what heppened to this ravi guy in india when he tried to contact dave lawton by email... things are not always what they seem....and please don't give me that thing were "they would talked about it in the newspaper and tv if it would exist).... think first what it would happened to the world economy if we did not need petrol anymore... I knew I should not have get into this thread, but just could not resist...it's ok...i'll stop here..better for me...but i encourage you , really , to do you own real deep research...not just what you find on official released documentation... get into forums where there is people that actually knew stanley. Cheers!

you're right... the ecu works mainly from the results of the o2 sensors... between 0.2 (lean) to 0.8 (rich) volts... since you replace part of the air with hho gas, therefore needing less fuel. now if you don't change anything, the exhaust gasses will be leaner. The o2 sensor will report it, then the ecu will react by lenghtening the time the injectors are open...therefore putting more fuel in the mix. this can easily be circumvent by making the ecu think that the exhaust gasses are actually too rich.. for this, you need to build a small electrical booster where you change the voltage by .1 volts. This will be like running the mix at less the 14:1 (stoic).. so if the o2 send .02, you intercept this data, add by 0.1 or more and send the changed data to the ecu... By doing this, you need to monitor the ict (internal cylinder temp)... But it has be proven that hho will actually help in reducing the temp of the cylinder because the result of the explosion of hho is water vapor , which will help absorb heat. anyway... this is another of my side project... I got alot more.... have a look at stanley meyer on you tube..you'll see that his invention has been replicated by ravi and dave lawton.. this guy did it fully running on water before being poisoned.... his brother started a company in canada with his technology http://xogen.ca ... were not talking high current here, but very high voltage and low amp combined with resonance... just a matter of time before my patty make 50 miles/gallon.... can you image, a pathfinder making more mile/gallon than an honda civic...

huh ho... columbo pezzy got ya