fleurys

I like my country, but sometimes I would really like to live in the us just for the easy way you have to get parts... I mean, if I get the shocks at ac, you add the shipping, customs, dollar exchange, it f^^&&&ing kills me ! I think I'm gonna contact AC and start a 4x4parts.ca with there products... anyway thanks for effort...

it doesn't seems to be the case... but a lot use the hubs which disengage the axles...therefore saving the boot from the rotation when not necessairy (on-road)... anyway thanks for trying...i just find this very strange that nobody has the answer for this...

Thanks for the info, but i'm afraid that "certainly long enough to take an even higher lift" will not be enough for me to go and by them without being sure... The AC kit puts a good 2" and some have reported up to 2.75" (80mm) of lift... this is big difference...

OK......I can rollover if you need me to ! can anyone with the bilstein rear shocks (for lifted 98-2004 from AC ) go and have a physical check to get some kind of part number on them ...?? please , please , please !

anyone ?? pezzy ?

Having problems to get rancho 9000xl (rs999010) locally, so now looking for bilstein...These will be installed with the ac coils 2"... I understand that it was mentionned at one point that the part number was BE5-6216-T0 . is this good ?? (i'm asking cause some links from the thread don't work anymore...) I understand that this is a special bilstein part number for xterra that already are lifted and have a different panhard rod... Just want to confirm .. Tks.

I see you're right about the offering from 4x4parts.. is this what you have on your truck (9000xl) ?

Beleive me I did a search before....I do get results but it's always for a pre-99.5 models....so just to be sure.... this is going to be easy for those who have done it already... What is the Rancho part number for the rear shocks (model rs9000xl) that I need when the ac 2" coils are installed ? The nearest to an answer I came with (from xplore4) was rs999010... Tks.

when I joined this forum, this was one of my first questions... I basically tried go gather real life exemples from the other members... I would say it almost worked completely... I doubt you'll find the exact answer to your question, but still you'll get to see a few exemples here : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867 for what it is worth, I will be doing the exact same thing as you during this winter (ac lift and put biggest tire on OE wheels)... if you're not in a hurry, i'll post my modifs as I go along... S.

good to hear you got a new one... r50s are great trucks... I still remember very clearly my first one (97)... http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/st...eury3/path2.jpg you'll love yours... try removing the smile off your face now !

sorry to interrupt...but i'm planning also to put the ac lift coils and struts on my 2001 and since canada seems like a second planet when it's time to ship parts from the USA (Cost related $$) , I'm going to try to find local parts... since I never done anything like this before (but want to learn), I just don't know what I might also need when changing the front struts with the kyb... I mean I see from the picture of the strut that there is no boot...so I guess I can transfer the boot from the oem.... But KYB also have a kit : sm5329 is this necessary to fit properly the strut or can all this be taken from the original ?? might sound obvious for some, but then again, like I said... never done this before... by the way, the guy was not wrong...these are valid replacement for the OEM rear shocks...it's just that they don't work with the ac lift... see here : S.

I understand that the only option I have for a locker for my 2001 is the arb locker. I live in quebec where cold weather (between -30C to +10C) is here at least half of the year. I have been surfing a bit about the reliability of arb locker in cold temperature. Posts from 2006 and 2007 shows that arb may have had an issue at one point (at least with the RD-89) http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=453327 and eventually released a retrofit kit with a "floating seal housing" fixing the issue.. Do any of you guys with the RD-34 or RD-107 experienced the same issues with leaking air (cold climate or not)...??? I'm looking to see if it is the exception or the rule...would really hate dropping 2K for front and rear diff for eventually swearing at it because the cold climate is just to hard for the arb hardware... tks.

Appreciate it

I searched the forum before but ended up empty handed...sorry if it already been said... I'm looking for the options I have for a locker for my 2001. I checked eaton's products including the detroit and e-locker but nothing is available... preferably, I would liked better to have a locker which i can activate when i want to...so it was either eaton e-locker or arb air-locker. Looking at the arb air-locker, the application chart kinda of misled me... I'm under the impression, if I read right somehwere in here, that my pathy has a 33 pline h233B at the rear..but I might be wrong...this would explain the following : Looking at the arb chart, it tells me that an arb locker is available for 31 spline for pathfinder from 86 to 2005, then for 2005 and up with 33 spline ?? WTF ? Can someone tell me , either from experience (counting the damn splines on the shaft) or pointing me to some reference page, what does my path 2001 (LSD) has for the number of spline..? while your at it, if you know more about what are my options (either on-demand or automatic lock), please feel free to educate me ! Here's the arb sheet : **Update ** OK , searching differently i found this thread : http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...p;hl=spline++33 and michiganave finds that RD24 is the part number from arb...the only hicup is that nowhere is it in the arb application sheet (USA OR International)... The post was in 2007...anyone know if arb part numbers changed since then ??... man it's getting ridiculous ...

It's funny you say plastics, because me and my friend were actually discussing this idea 2 days ago... We came to a conclusion that it would be hard (if not impossible) to bend it or work it to follow the undercarriage curves etc... Or for that matter the bolting of the plate in an angle (like the front spash guard)... It would probably be great for the transmission/transfer case protection though... I'll definitely read more on this... Tks.

Thanks for the inputs.. I have taken notes... One thing remains though... 3/16 or 1/4 inch? does the cheaper 3/16 does the trick or is it 1/4inch or nothing? what's your experience on the trail ?

I'm planning on building my own set of skidplates for my 01. I would like to gather some opinions of what would be absolutely necessary if I would be building it for you ! I have read alot of posts about 3/16 vs 1/4 inch, hidden bolts washer, steel vs aluminium.... depending how it goes, I might also offer it for others to buy....so... let your ideas flow about what would be your ultimate skid plate for your truck. One last thing; tell me what is it, if anything, that you do not like on your current set of plates and how you would change it.. ps. explainaing your choices would greatly be appreciated. S.

do the self diagnostic procedure on page at-23 (the one with no tools)... ... This should at least tell you more about the health of your tranny...

I suspect your tranny has set itself in limp mode... If you have a check engine light, I suggest you get the code from the "Consult" device at NIssan (you won't be able to get the code from an off-the-shelf" code reader as these are manufacturer specific (transmission)... If you do not have a check engine light, then I would start with the self-diagnostic procedure included in the nissan AT shop manual... I have uploaded it here for you... http://www.4shared.com/file/67415395/60f3df77/at_online.html good luck...and let us know how it turns out.. ps. I just tought of one thing....you could try to un-hook your negative terminal from the battery for a good 10 minutes...this could clear some stored codes and could make your tranny kinda reset itself...So if it's a electronic thing, this should fix it...if it's mechanical...it's another story...

I say go for it big time....

This thread is good place to start : http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867 ,

Come have fun to the 23rd edition of the victo's rallye. It's like a regular rallye execpt you do it in the forest, MUD and trails. Tractors and organizers are spotted along the trails to help those who get stuck. everything is supervised and organized. 40$ per adult, prices will be awarded just for your presence. inscription goes from 7 to 11 AM on the day of the event.. the rallye is almost 100KM in the trails !! the entry price gets you the rallye, the dinner after and the gift night (don't really know how to say it properly in english.. Last year there was over 700 trucks present. You DO NOT NEED TO HAVE A MODIFIED RIG. There will be a stock and non-stock trails. I know i'll be there...WILL YOU ? ! BE there at : 605 Notre-Dame EST, Victoriaville, QC.... Google map link : http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=q&hl=en&a...&iwloc=addr Some Youtube video of the previous years : http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer...mp;search_type=

Year: 1997 XE lift : No LIFT Wheels : 16" ROH Monsoon 16X8 -13offset Tires : Bridgestone Dueler A/T P245/70R16 Notes: no issues, no rubbing, no spacers photo:

csutke: don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to get a full proof thread..Just a one place for info for wheels and lift kits on different paths.. I simple explaination of what you have and what was done for your specific rig is more than enough... LAXMAN: That's it..this is exactly what I want to see...The only thing I would do , for the sake of searching in the thread, is the format... I propose something like this : Year: 1997 lift : AC 2" coils Wheels : Xtrerra SC Wheels 17" Tires : {brand and model here) - 265/65R17 Notes: wheel spacers 1.5" had to be put on to stop the rubbing on full lock on the plastic skid plate and strut. photo : link here of the truck and wheels. Thanks laxman..

For what it's worth, on my side I had a v6 engine which was clicking about 5X times louder than yours...the mechanics all said that the lifter were shot and new heads were to be changed for it to fix the problem... I tried a bottle of engine restorer 6 cylinders (silver bottle) and within 48 hours the clicking was pratically gone... It saved some time and after a year the clicking was still not back... I eventually sold the car and the clicking had not return.... So I guess you can believe or not these kind of products, but for me, i know , it made a huge difference... What do you got to loose....it cost about 15$...