fleurys

Thanks.. I will re-check this because when I turned on the backside, The whole plastic assembly at the backside (which is around the metal socket) was turning but nothing was releasing.... Don't remember seing just a ring...

I hardwired my clinometer and at the same time decided to remove my cigarette lighter socket that I burned while doing a stupid thing....(no details please ..haha) .... After almost 1 hour of fiddling, going through the fsm..nothing.... I can't figure out where to press, hold, push or whatever to get the socket to release. Anyone has done this before and remember in detail how to do.... I'm freaking out !! Right now, changing a cigarette lighter socket prooves to be longer than replacing my 2 cvs.... ps. It's the one in the center console..just underneath the radio... help !!!

great pictures...thanks.... here's what you ask... http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keywor...81260&dds=1 cheapest place I could find even with the conversion and broker fees...

did I miss something..

I know that something is baking in austrialia with a tire carrier hooked on the hitch... I know this could be good for those who would like to keep the oem rear bumper... the story here: http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1...=a&start=30

How about bolting from the top down....that could work no ?? If we cut the existing bolts (grinder), then start the new ones from the strut tower, screw in the threaded spacer, then put the nut under the upper spring retainer... same force, same strenght, just the bolt head on top instead of under... That would save alot of headaches and time..... I know the last time I had to compress the ac coils, it took a real good spring compressor (garage strenght and even then, the guy worked alot for it to compress enough....)

Question like that.... If I get the threaded top spacer, technically I should be able to pop out the old short bracket bolts, install the spacer, screw in the new bolts ...all this without having to disassemble the strut-coil assembly..right ?? **edit**.. mmm I just looked at the picture, and I guess the challenge is removing and installing the bolts because the top plate of the coil retainer is in the way... PLease just confirm... S.

Do you think the front will be higher than the rear when you're done ??? I'm looking also to put 33" with 1 inch spacers..but wondering if I 'll have to put some in the back also... A good picture of the cv angle would great if you could....

good pics....I don't remember...did you have the ac coils also ?? to give an idea of the space around the tire, what's the diameter you got now ? 32 ? 31 ?

240 hp is not enough for you guys ??? Last time I checked, It was enough to kill to cv .... ask gpg ..... I think we have enough... My 2 cents...

man you started with class !!! fix it and get back on the trails.....where the fun is !

Have a look at this beauty..1982 dodge aries. I was 18 and 400$ got me this piece of crap that I kept 1.5 year before baking the head gasket to the head after my radiator blew and just decided not to stop until I get home.... Well I got home, but some strange white smoke was coming out from the tale pipe..hahaha.. Still sold it for 150 .... Never took the subway from that moment on.... My freedom started with this :-)

My 1/4" aluminum will kick a 3/16" steel skid's ass all day... Sledgehammer tested ... also...say goodbye to 15 minutes oil changes with the others...

Well, I'm just thinking out loud to what is between your key and your starter if you say that she does not start...the only thing coming to mind is this... When you say you need a jump for restart, do it tries to start or you only hear click...(or nothing at all) ?? I would also check the connections between your battery and the alty...maybe your cable is grounded on something or badly deterioated ... If your battery lights comes on, it means you have fallen under 9 or 10 volts....so something is fishy here...You said you tested the alty... do you know the amperage it gives at idle speed....because you say the light goes away after you drive, I'm tempted to say that you alty is still defective and not giving enough amp at idle speed. I had one alty do this on me on another car that I had....

starter relay ???

Your pathy gets destroyed and you ONLY suffer neck tissue tears..!!! Boy..you're from the tuff batch ! :-) put it all behind you and start the next chapter... It will soon be an old story than you can tell one day to your children ! How dad survived a total rear end crash without problem.... hahaha good to hear nothing else is damaged (apart your heart from losing your pathy) !

stay away : moving theatre !! really bad.. good to see : your kids (and yourself) will love the lego exposition ! .. to see !

yep, welcome !

I'm interessted...give more specs though on the different amp at the different rpm... Sealed brushes...?? does that mean water will never kill this alty ?? more details and links if you can baout this can of alternator...

220$ CAD... and well worth it ! ( I know I'm not objective on this one....)

haaaaa I know.... It's my Countersunk Bolts !!! they defeat the wind resistance !!! ....Seriously...if my plate made you save MPG than I need to reconsider my price I'm happy if you're happy !....pictures please !

Man, what do you guys smoke !! ?? ;-)

I bought this : http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/bumper-lift.html to use it on my hitch for the back and on the bull bar for the front.... but sincerly, I have never had the chance (or not), to use it.... but it still can do the job I think...

no.... believe me...you'll know.... It's a loud BANG! ... I'm still not fully used to it...still get the little gut feeling when it happens...;-)

Last time I read something about your tc and transmission oil change, you said the 2 were sharing the same oil...(Which is not true)... I'm not sure if you figured it out..but if you did not, is it possible that you flushed the tc, then the trans than refilled the trans, leaving the tc empty thinking it would filled it too?? S.