fleurys

I think it's fantastic! It's good to see new services poping here and there! I like the t-shirt but without the back pictures and logo.. I'm more of the subtile type...Also, for the cap, I would really like it if the logo was smaller a bit...so It does not take so much place... But that's just me... This is great ! Let us know about the next steps.. I'll be supporting you for sure ! S.

yes...on a 40-45 angle hill...it's scary how good this works...

Not bad...Not bad at all....High five for trying something different !

Man..you must be just freaKING PISSED !... make sure to make the guy who sold it to you know about this.. unbeleivable... well..you;re not quiter...that's a fact ! Cheers Steve.

did you slack enough the lower one...this might give you more play.. If it does not work, I would at that point proceed to remove the whole strut assembly and verify if the bolt can go through the holes (both strut assembly and knuckle) separately... At that time you'll see where it fails... S

It looks like you have the right part number for one bolt. I remember mine was a 2 bolt box #81260. I remember clearly that we had to turn them while pushing them in... try that... turn them and give them a little rubber hammer hit. do this in increments and it should eventually go in..

here you go.. http://www.4shared.com/file/104999412/90da...procedures.html This is the complete mitchell diagnostic portion for your 98 pathfinder. You will find all the codes and the procedures to diagnose them. Let us know how this thing end ! Cheers. S.

Just one last note before ending this thread. I have now posted in services and I'm taking orders now. I have also decided to apply some modifications. There will not be a tab version of skid offered. If people have the oem bumper with plastic tabs, they will have to either cut them or drill one hole extra per tab through the skid/frame to clip them. Since the holes for these tabs are lined up differently between the 96-99 and 99.5-2004 , I have decided to simply eliminated them. I will make them with the window on either the left or right side depending on the engine you have. 3.3 on the right and 3.5 on the left. I have decided to offer this since it does not involve alot of work. now is the time ;-) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22475

man it sucks !! ... When I saw fueler a while ago with the same problem, I knew at that time that when i was going to do my lift, i was going with all new parts in order to help prevent something like this. I hope you can fix it soon.

OK,, sure thing.. Here's what the bushing looks like : http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/inde...241517~241517~0 then this bushing goes in here , it is the number 8 . : No I did not change it yet, but it is obvious that it is screwed. I have taken a picture. If you look carefully , you can see a little bit that the rubber has started to rip off or tear. : I have also confirmed with my mechanic that is is very likely the source of the noise. I will be changing them soon.

ok...I'll send you the blue thing under the hood too and a big piece of metal that was put in my diff... They all came with the switch...let know your address and thank you for helping me out...

It clamps on with 2 screws..I only put some thin rubber strip underneath to prevent the clamp from scratching the bar and opening a door to rust to come in..

custom made...could not find any that I liked...this one is overkill, but it's made in stainless steel, 1/4"...

a transfer case will only sent the power to the front and rear diff in an equal manner. There is no left-right thing involved. At that point, depending of what you have in your diff (locked, open or lsd) you'll either turn 2 wheels (locked) or only 1 (open) or what i called 1 1/2 (lsd)...the open and lsd with always let the wheel with the less resistance turn. So you could very well have the 2 left wheel turn if you were to be in a situation were these wheels would be in mud while the right ones would be on solid ground. The transfer case has nothing to do with this... The transfer case will send (on our rigs) a 50/50 split between front and back..nothing more, nothing less.

if you click on the link (underneath the picture), you'll get all your answers ;-)

I need to sell a lot of skidplates for that ! hahahaha... but at least the place is reserved...

http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/st...mview=slideshow

yep , it's confirmed... it fits a 96-99 like a glove... it's the same thing...same bolts holes everywhere....The only thing different is the bumper attachment. The bumper on the 96-99 has 2 smaller tabs (compared to the 2001-04), that attached kind of in the middle front instead of on the side. So these tabs will need to be removed in order to use the skid..but I don,t think it is different than the AC one. Also, on Rod's path, the 2 tow hooks used 1 of the bolts holes necessary to attach the skid (the Big holes on each side in front). So we removed the hooks in order to install the skid, but they can easily be modified to be put back at their place. the price = 220 CAD$... I have thought about this for a long time and it is why it was not said before. The big bolts in stainless are cnc machined because they don't exists in any bolts manufacturer product list, so my price, swear to god, is 7$ per bolt... there is 4 of them... so just in bolts, there is near 30$...and the time..This skid is simply very time consuming because there is a lot of hand made thing to be done (countersunk slots, rubber, threaded window _ etc.., so for any less, it would not be worth it for me. I can assure you that I do not make a lot on each..and If I count my time, well, it's a joke... but I'm willing to make a few for those interested. If I get the distribution deal I,m working on, then I can tell you, that this is the lowest price they'll ever be. unless, there is a hugh demand for it, I will remove the option of having tabs in the plate in order to snap the plastic bumper. I have only one left and it will probably soon let go..and the time it take more to fabricate the skid with these is longer...it all adds up. I'm presently preparing myself to be able to do them more easily (bolts holes templates, polishing station, packaging, etc) so that it takes less time to make them. I,ll be posting in @services@ area this week in order to start the pre-orders. I will be giving all the details of the shipping as soon as I have everything lined up (packed size and weight), so that you can have an exact idea of how much total it costs. I know the weight will help a lot for that. here's a picture of rod's 98 with it : Cheers. Steve.

If the 96-99 fitment test goes the way I hope it will, I will be starting the pre-order next week. turn around time should be between 1 to 2 weeks. On another note, when i was fitting it to my truck, I was holding the skid with one arm and bolting with the other. My skid weight 14.5 lbs and at the end (after test fitting 2 of them) i was starting to get my arm a little bit tired... I was thinking, just how hard it would be if it was made in steel... Hey you wanted to shave some pounds on your truck lately no ?? here you go ..

by an hydraulic press.....there is a ton of work involved in this skid..a lot more that I originally thought.. Just the countersunking of the slots took multiple efforts and trial and errors... it's basically hand made.

D O N E !!!! Here it is...all done and perfect just the way I wanted it. Absolutely flat, nothing to hook on the rocks.! I will know this friday is the skid fits on 96-99 as I'm going at rod's place. have a look .. On the pictures you see both models that I will be offering. They will be available WITH or WITHOUT the squares that allows the original bumper to snap underneath. If you look carefully, you see that when I started the project I had both plastic tab...now only one remains... But you see that I left spaces for them to snap properly. For those who do not have the tabs or the oem bumper for that matter, you can use the other one. ps. Rod, yes...the second one is yours ! before after other skid (no tabs) all the pictures are here, http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/st...mview=slideshow

here you go buddy...keep this place in your favorite...This is where I bought mine...free shipping over 75$...right here in canada..no duties...nada http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/inde...41504~241504~23 this is the control arm bushings for a 1990 path.. If your profil is wrong, then just go back to the main page and put in your info (year,model) and go down to suspension section.. You'll find all the bushing you need.... even oem... but looking at your picture, I would call this probably a link bushing....anyway these are the link bushings : http://www.autopartsway.ca/autoparts2/inde...er%204WD~241517 http://www.autopartsway.ca/index.cfm Cheers...(no need to yell.)

Thanks alot... I just hate it when people have a problem, then fix it and don't tell the forum about it... This is perfect and IT will be usefull for someone, i'm sure... Great explanation and good pictures...way to go ! S.

Having the same problem...it sounds like my jack under the rear seat was loose or something.. Nothing was wrong under until I raised the truck. There I saw my upper arm link bushing that was kind of kinked instead of straight... I have also found this has being the culprit by doing more search in here... Someone else also had the same symptoms... S.

you're kidding me right ?