fleurys

good luck with this... I know the feeling...but luckily for me i was not in an as bad situation as yours... still the feeling is not funny.... For the winch, this is classic.. one more reason why i'm going with MileMarker Hydraulic...

Just bought one on ebay seconds ago.... I understand fram stop making these in 2004.... so the one that are available are NOS (New Old Stock).... according to the application guide, you will need the SD3.... here's the link to the ebay store that I bought from.... http://cgi.ebay.ca/Fram-Sure-Drain-Oil-Plu...p3286.m20.l1116 I have a feeling, these will go fast.... Tks pezzy, *update: here's the lnkfor the application guide : http://www.jegs.com/pdfs/SureDrain.pdf

Thanks for all the info...but we'll see.... if you look at my design for the front and compare it to the AC one, you'll see that I went for a larger coverage for the front portion... That's why there is 2 square cuts.. These square are for where the plastic bumper snaps underneath... AC did not bother with that and there plate do not cover the sides like that. So if you're telling me that the bumper for the 96-99 snaps at the same location as the 99.5-04 then yes it will work... I have a question : for those who have aftermarket skids, the engine oil drain hole.... I'm thinking, when I do an oil change, the pressure at the beginning is pretty high, and the oil does not really goes down staright... it goes kinda in an angle until the pan is almost empty.... Looking at the whole AC made for access at the draining plug, it must be a freaking mess when you change the oil ??? Is it the case ?? did you develop some kind of trick to change the oil without spreading oil all over the inside of the skidplate ? I have a idea how to solve it but wanted to know if it was really an issue like I think it is... Thanks

That's the problem... I really don<t know.... I don't have a 96-99 donor ... I know these models don't have the same powertrain setup, but the unders might be the same. So the front plate and the big one up to the transmission support might still be ok, but I,m more concern about the transfer case one (still not started). I know the the 01-04 have a different TC than the 96-99... Good photos of the under of a 96-99 might help also if I can't find a loaner... S.

will do... for now here's a rendering from autodesk inventor of the front plate with all the final measurements... The holes location are not final yet since I have a a few key bolts that are broken inside the treads.... need to drill those bolts out first. So I might offer more holes than needed to screw it in place for those stuck with same problem as mine... (question : would this be a good idea ? ) Also , the channels are not done on this rendering but there will be some to accomodate some not so straight patty :-) cheers.

Stay tune...i'm almost done with mine...mixed of 1/4 inch for the front and HDPE for the underneath... removable window for the access of the oil filter and countersunk bolts... Once I have everything setup, i'll be selling them for who is interessted... i hope to be done by march...

I started to get the same noise, but it goes out after warmup though.... here's some info for your chain, but i guess you already knew this by now.... di it turned out to be the timing chain ?? Timing chain, pathfinder - vq35de - VQ35DE 01-04 $82.08 $61.56 info was taken from everythingnissan.com

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SWIX/PAC-S...=3405&avf=N for the steering wheel controls, this will work with your aftermarket radio..just make the new unit has an infrared receiver on it (has a remote control)... this way you can make this device learn the actions that you need it to do from your steering wheel... I'm sure there's others... crutchfield is pretty complete as far as information as these.. S.

that's an easy one if you ask me! You've been the only owner, you know your machine inside out..according to your post she has never let you down...give her some more TLC and you're good to go for another 200,000km. Come on, it's a pathfinder we're talking about here ! :-) If you're gona redo the suspension, put her the AC coils, get 2 inch of lift, new shocks, new struts and a little extra (for the bigger tires) and you'll discover a completly competent trail machine ! no need for more posts... go do it !

ho..f**^!k... good to know that you're fine... sorry to hear about your truck... I guess, now when someone cuts you....just don't swerve and hit the bast%&d ..! Good luck with the new one..

With temperature ranging from 0 to -24C for the last 2 weeks or so, I can confirm you that the heater of the pathy is more than capable (I don't know if the R50 has the same heater core as the d21...)

sorry to bring back an old thread, but I need some facts to be clearer... According to everything I searched in here, everyone agrees that the warn hub part number for my 01 would be 29091. 1) According to warn, this is for axles with 28 splines 2) Like some of you knows, I'm installing arb lockers soon and have ordered the front locker RD-107. This is for 29 spline r200A. does that means that the spline count in the diff is 29 but at the axle (wheel) is 28 ? I understand that the axle in the diff is not actually the same up to the wheels (cv axles), but i find it strange that it would loose a spline in the process... Anyone ?

Just a headups here... if I'm not mistaken, pezzy has the 99.5 with 3.3. typhus has the 3.5.... the underhood arrangement must be different no ?

http://www.rad1.com/

just my 2 cents...could it be your balljoints ?? I know mine does kinda of a clunk when i turn while the terrain is not level....I'm changing them soon, but just wanted to give another tought... S

yep...I second this...been researching far and wide ! arb locker is your only bet...(expensive I agree, but well worth it, according to those who have it..)

Thanks for the comment.... I too, have read the procedures many times, and actually this helped me alot to determine if the installer knew what he was talking about.... Like I said, for example, the H233B came with 2 sets of ring gear bolts...long and short ones (depending of the year and / or model of the truck)....that is why arb gives a set of washer in the kit(they call it spacers)...you have to use them is you have the long ones or else, by tighning them to spec, the non threaded portion of the bolt would have "damaged" the threads on the carrier.... You see this kind of details can be disastrous over the years..but you won't really see it if the first few months or years of usage....but one day you might just witness a locker "explosion" because some bolts did slacked a bit... So this detail is what I used to "test" my installer...when asking the question : "do you know what the washers in the kit are for ?" some told me "what washers ??" I would then hang up ... other "don't know..never saw them "..hang up too...... others told me, " you don't really need them "...hang up once more.... Only one told me " ho yeah, for the rear locker, you need them with the long bolts"..that was Jim..... He was the only guy that knew was I was talking about... So I must say, since then, I have been sleeping alot better..... I understand you can never be 100% sure about someone, but I feel alot more confident then with the other guys... 2009 will be my year.. I have reserved and allocated funds for my pathy and I will , at last , live my dream of going week-end long trails, sleeping in the woods, and letting go of this crazy world that we live in every day... I have been working as a coordinator of Information Technology for almost 20 years now and I can tell you, that I will enjoy every minute of it. The lockers are just the beginning and I can't wait to start phase2 (lift and tires)... This one I will do myself ! Cheers !

for me it sounds like a tranny problem.... I have found someone on the net answering better than I could do, on a similar behavior : I quote : " Its possible that your transmissions Shift Solonoids could be acting erratically, either because they themselves are faulty, or the transmission's ECU is faulty, or maybe even the wiring between the two is somewhat faulty. However it is also possible that your transmission's Speed Governor is holding too much pressure and doesn't realize it needs to downshift when you start slowing down. Thirdly it is also possible that your Torque-Converter lockup may be siezed, or the wiring feeding it may be faulty. " I would say that if you get a "check engine" light, then I would run the self diagnostic procedure included in the repair manual of your path. not much, but hope it helps.. ** Update** Just found something here.... do this easy test... Next time you start your truck from a prolong stop (like in the morning), drive it with the OD OFF.. This will prevent the overdrive to engage, and at the same time, the TCC (Torque converter cluth) selenoid will not be used... If after this, when you get to your stop sign, the problem is not there, then your TCC selenoid is likely the culprit... if not, well, at least you know it's not that You could also say, that if the problem is not there in the morning from small driving (less than 70Kmh), then again, I would suspect the TCC selenoid...

hummm...unbelievable you guys.. it doesn't take much to make you move to another subject....... I have talked to JIM at rockspyder4x4 and this guy not only knows the procedure inside out (bolt lenghts, threaded thrust block in the front, etc..) but he has been performing this installation many times on the r200 and h233b.... I'm awaiting my lockers and will be driving to markham in the beginning of the year for a 2 days installation... Jim has agreed to let me assist and document the installation (photos) inside and out... I will let you know (and show you) when it's all said and done. Thank you very much simon... S.

Simon....I meant the quebec shop......not the burlington one..

Thanks SImon...I'll consider the burlington shop..but I had already went and look at the quebec one, and I was shock... Tools and parts were everywhere on the floor of the garage in no order. this is the "expert" that told me "all lockers are the same" kinda crap...

:excl:I did not know it was going to be like this, but finding an installer that I can trust to install my lockers seems to be more difficult than I tought ! Do you guys know anyone that has installed ARB Lockers (front and back) on a nissan pathfinder 2001 before ? I understand that they are other guys that have already installed arb lockers (mostly on jeeps), but After reading the procedures of the rd107 and rd135, I realize that there is alot of small details that must be followed to the letter in order to have a problem free installation for many years. I have discussed with a few "mechanics" that tell me, "yeah no problem, I don<t need the procedure, arb lockers are all the same "... I have seen, for example, that the ring gear bolts needs to be measured before re-installing to see if it's the long or short ones..If it's the long, then you need to use the washers that comes with the locker in order to prevent problems in the long run... This is just one example,,,that obviously would be missed by this "expert mechanics".... Is it that complicated to find a person that has done this installation before and has actually read what ARB recommend as a perfect installation ? I live near montreal in QC, Canada and I'm willing to pay and drive to the place (+-500Km) to have someone that knows and have already done this and is a perfectionist. I want this install to be perfect as if the mechanic was doing it for his own truck... ps. please I don't need comments like "you can do it yourself..just take your time"... I don't agree...everyone has a specialty..differentials is just not mine and i"m not willing to "learn" and "try" on 2500$ worth of hardware..

for the supercharger, since you already have experience in making and fitting some, you might benefit from this discussion here : http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...part=1&vc=1 but i'm sure fueler and other members here could tell more stories... welcome to npora! S.

Sorry vengeful...misunderstood... you would need something like this instead http://www.avermedia.com/avertv/Product/Pr...88&device=4 for about 50$...

here you go vengeful : http://keepvid.com/ enter the link of the youtube video, then choose the format that you want (low or high quality).. S.