fleurys

I just went under the truck for you :-) The orientation is with the dial at the bottom.. I'm pretty sure I saw mount this way stamped on it when I installed them long time ago.... right now I could not see without removing the wheel...so I did not do it... but since they have oil in ut and that the valving is controlled with the dial, it make a lot of sens that the shock has to be with the dial down so taht the dial can change the ammount of oil that is passed within a specified time... If the dial was installed up, the oil would not be going there.... I'll try to find a closeup of the shock with the stamps on it. The body diameter is exactly 2.2 inches. S.

I run the rs999010 rancho with my 2 inch lift. but I know that the mounts are reversed between the your truck and mine (01)... I do not have any interference issues with mine.

check you air filter.... hopefully it is not wet and full of mud...if so it means the engine might eaten a few dose of it.... If I were you, I would check this before trying to start it again... you might make more damage.... check the air filter first

Holy crap ! very nice... bring some spare half-shafts with you on the trail !

I greatly doubt a defective swirl valve solenoid will cause the issues you're having... hopefully others will chime in...

1 each side

the clunk you are talking about is more probably related to your rear links (the arms that hold the differential to the body/frame) . The bushings must be torn or worst... Do you feel your truck also changing direction a bit when you press hard on the gas or release the gas...? this is another symptom of worn links bushings...

most probably MAF... they all (01-04) eventually fail... the symptoms are pretty much it... search for the maxima maf hack that will save you a couple of hundreds... S.

confirmed !

getting 16mpg with 32" and yakima and spare on top. Mix of haighway and city. I also have manual hubs (warn).

rebuilding cv axle.... it's not pretty ! This one of the reason why oem is better... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrAWzmdCXWI

oem are better for the simple fact that the ball valley are not grinded like the remanufactured ones...( they usually remove a few thousands of a inch in order to be able to put them back by hand). This is why the oem are more stiff and will allow less play. I do not have any bad brands, but i would say if you can have two in your hands, take the one where the joint is stiff and difficult to move vs the one that is very easily moved.

you did not do a lot of search did you....? www.4x4parts.com S.

drop the rancho in front and buy the kyb... also, buy new nissan strut bearings..

how about, the r50 have no frame rusting issues

whas a good day today.. removed the old bearing races, and re-installed new ones with the help of my new toy (20 tons press): boy does it make the job easier.. took 20 minutes for all 4 races... then install new bearings and grease seals... I used another small tool that I bought for packing the bearings: the lisle bearing packing tool : This thing made packing the bearings a 10 sec thing... I love it. ! here's a video of how it works.. :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRrJemtqwP0 then finally put some new rotors too followed by my new warn hubs... I,m a little tired tomorrow, putting my new pads and be done with the front... attacking the rear links after that... feels good finally to give some tlc to my little pathy ! :-)

another week of vacation and finally I am dedicated to fix the pathy that is in need.. so, yesterday : remove the drums, grinded the rust and repainted. changed all the springs with new ones and put some anti-seized where the shoes rub. looks good at the back now. Removed my rock sliders and brought them to be sandblasted and galvanized. Eventhough they never touched the trail (I have hdpe plastic for the rubbing part), they rusted everywhere... So I hesitated between powder coated and galvanize. I followed my welder advice.. Since galvanize is a process where the parts gets dipped into the liquid, the advantage is that it will be protected inside and out... pictures to come. today : dismantled the hub and rotor. removed the inner and outer bearings with grease seal. The bearing races are a little marked, so I will be changing them... just need to figure out the best way to do this... first time for me... more to come... S.

I don;t have this setup...but this is what I will do when mine goes like yours... I just posted these to let you know that it is possible to make it better than the OEM ones....

if and when mine will bend, I,m going this road : more work, but most probably a one time and done kinda thing... Also a front locker does help a bit by preventing sudden change of wheel spin when the tire grabs some traction..

If you do this, something's gonna break... you need to have the same ratio front and rear (or very little difference like 4.88 and 4.90... but then again, those who do this have dedicated trail machine that never sees asphalt, so the wheels can spin)... So on our regular rigs, it's a no no... you could also do it if you put different tire size to match the difference in ratio...but this is really bad if you ask me...

then maybe you lost one brake pad.... you'll know when you remove the wheel...

very nice truck... you should see what we get here for 2500$ for a pathy.... a rust bucket... You got yourself a nice one...!

I also sell one, a little more heavy duty..but also higher priced.. http://www.4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.html

I say screw this 33 or 35 thing and slap on 44's on it ! ( I guess I had no opinions and needed to say something... )

You probably have one of the worse issue to troubleshoot on the 2001 pathy. According to what I read in the fsm, The swirl valve selenoid signal is dependant on many other ecu signals. They are the folowing: Throttle position sensor Crankshaft Position sensor (pos) Crankshaft Position sensor (ref_ Mass ais flow and engine coolant temperature Now if all those signals are at a specific settings, the ecu will STOP sending power to the selenoid and therefore the swirl valve will be opened. What I understand is that by default, when the valve is closed, this means power is applied to the selenoid. When on the other hand, for example, the engine temp is higher than 55C and the car is not idle, and the rpm is higher than 3600 (AT) etc.., then the ecu will cut the power to the selenoid, therefore opening the valve. Since you do not have code, I'M thinking that you might have something defective within the sensors needed that would not raise a code if defective... Therefore I'm leaning towards your coolant temp sensor... Get the fsm, and follow the procedure to troubleshoot a P1130 code in the ECU section (page 452). You will have all the rundown to test all sub-sensors that are necessary for your swirl valve selenoid to receive the ecu signal to be switched to OFF (therefore having the swirl valve opened) Hope this helps a bit. S.