fleurys

nope but I use something similar : fram suredrain : and love it.... dirt cheap and so usefull when you have a skidplate...

The front diff of the pathy is a high pinion reverse cut... So I doubt the 300zx rear diff is like this.... I would probably instead try to use the internals (friction discs and spacers) of the 300 diff and put it in the r50 carrier.... Anyway... good luck and let us know how it turns out. S.

I guess you could always try to paint a set ... http://www.parasolinc.com/Products.asp?ProductID=VARIKOLOR

You do not have the measurement you need in order to compare the ones you found... The bar side is the diameter of the shaft opening and the joint side is the diameter of the <joint> openeing.... in the fsm you obviously on have the lengths of the boot.... But one question comes to mind.... Why not go with the rockford when all this reasearch has already been done for you and on top of it you will end up with superior boots instead of crappy neoprene ? go there : www.rockfordcv.com, get your part number for your truck from the online catalog, then call them and pay over the phone with your credit card and you'll be done... Unless, there is something I don't undertsnad in what you are trying to achieve...

Start on 2hi, then shift on the fly like you would do nornally... all tests needs to be done on a straight line to prevent binding... obviously not an issue when you have no cvs, but important when both are there.. You can run on 4 hi with no cvs... it makes no difference... The transfer case will still engage and transfer the power to the diff through the driveshaft and turn the 2 cv flanges.... so you will know right away if it has anything to do with your driveshaft (ujoints) or cv axles... Personnally, I would remove both to start and rule out for good the driveshaft-ujoints... if it still does it, then you know it`s not your cvs..etc... running with one cv will not change or break anything... The open diff you have will simply send the power to the least resistance side, which on that case will be the side with no cv... so the flange will rotate faster than your underside but will still turn at the same speed as your rear wheels.. (like if you had your front wheel in the air or on a patch of ice)

At that point, I would remove the cv axles and do a road test... this way you will confirm if it is them.... Then you can re-install 1 at a time and do another road test before putting the second one.... you'll eventually end up with the culprit...

You need the snapring.... pretty sure.. I know on my 01 I had the same issue but you just have to take the halfshaft with one hand and <bring it> far enough so you can install it... The axle is not fixed in lenght...it can extend longer... (it can do that from the inner joint part (closest to the differential).. there is a tripod setup there when it can move a good 2-3 inches if not more..)

The job in itself is not a complicated one.... just remove the driveshaft (make sure to note with paint the two parts before removing), then push out the old, push in the new, re-install the drivehsaft... It all depends on the tools and place you have... Mine were rusted and almost seized... So it happened to be a bit of a pain since I only had a vice and a hammer. A good thing is that I had my friend to help hold the part while I was banging on it with the hammer... It turned out ok but took us about 2-3 hours to change 4 ujoints.... it's too much if you ask me.... but then on another ujoints job for a friend of mine, I rented a portable hydrolic c-clamp... and it made all the difference in the world... No more fighting for putting out or in the joint... I think the front one cost around 22$ each... the back ones were about the same.... I say for 100$, doing front and back is a pretty good investment... don't buy cheap and have to redo the job a year or 2 down the road... The're good trucks... take care of it ! S.

This was exactly the symptoms I was having, and it turned out to be my front ujoints... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25609&view=findpost&p=481906

That's a very nice installation... bravo! looks oem !

mine had no play in it, but the needle bearing in the cup were almost square.... I'v written a post on this somewhere... your 2002 fits in the timezone that they need to be changed... usually it starts with the front ones... this is easily verifiable by removing the front driveshaft.... if the vibration stops, then change the ujoints... and if you're like me and don't like doinf things twice, change them at the back too... I used neapco ujoints from theujointstore.com S.

What I mean is that the truck pulls from both wheels... It does <equalize> the way the force is being distributed.... it's not one wheel or the other... That's what I mean by divide.... and one locked all 4, you can clearly feel that the truck has less power because it takes a lot more juice to spin all 4 wheels when you're stuck... so this also help from breaking axles...

That's what I meant.... with lockers, he will not have to floor it any more and if he does there is less chance of breaking since the load will be divided... A good line choice and moderate throttle can make almost impossible obstacles, possible... sudden change in rotation speed is one of the biggest reason of axle breakage...no matter the size... This is a good example of bad positioning : This is a place where we go often (weir) and this rock I can climb with my path (with my ac lift only), but I am locked all 4, like my friend on the video... He has a dana35 diff with superior axles (g2)super35 axles. Things to remember is that this axle had about 60 hours of life... He just changed it because the other was twisted... My friend has a bad habit of giving too much gas pedal, but he is slacking a bit... anyway, not alot of axle will support the load when the truck is <trapped> like this on the rock.... so again, good line, and moderate skinny pedal will do...

well, if you really want 40's, then forget the ifs (unless you install a beefy setup like the ua2011 ford-f150 from randy ellis design)... go with a sas with probably a good dana60 etc... but then again, this is very mucho $$$.... I'm not sure there is a cheap, locked setup for 40's....

You'll still be breaking axles with a sas if you rock crawl... put your money in lockers and you won't... ditto for the tie rods.... I say, keep it..

yep..me too I'm ready for mine hahaha.... Here are the issues that I am working on... 1) the upper links are too fat... the 2 inch core of the aluminum bar comes in contact with the fuel tank... Also, they are too long... so right now I have my old links back on the truck until this is fixed (shim the body of the bar and re-cut and re-thread hole) 2) The design of 2 heim joint causes sometime the joint to stay flexed and it is the nut that slacks and the joint does not come back to center. Therefore each subsequent flex cause a noise (or a bang) because the joint hits the mount. I have finally ordered some new poly bushings and threaded 3/4-16 threaded rod in order to replace 1 end of the links with a bushing. The setup will still be fully adjustable but the bushing will force the heim joint back in place after a flexed and all the noise should go away. I know it;s long and even me I feel it should be faster. It would be alot better if I could invest more time in this side business and I feel I will soon be able to as I have stepped down on some of my responsibilities at my job... At least when it's done, you know the bugs will have been eliminated... I don;t expect any of them to be availaible before next season (april-may 2012) as I will not be able to wheel du to winter time here. S.

yes it is the trailing arms bushings, but do one at a time or else you might have difficulties to reattach them as the diff will have moved... not sure how you will be able to do this without jacking the truck.... one more thing, if you use the poly bushings, make sure to put some appropriate grease between the bushing and the sleeve or they will be bad in not time. if you use the rubber ones, only bolt the nut lightly first and final torque once the truck is back on it's wheel. happy hacking ! S.

i<m ignoring this also.... I have probably more just in lockers on my rig that the price they would give me.... anything can be fixed.... i'm not letting my rig go...

1 - stop playing in water with your truck :-) 2 - clean up your air filter 3 - let your mass air flow (maf) dry up.. have a look at it and be careful not to damage it 4 - if you think it swallowed some water, do an oil change. 5 - repeat step 1

Nice .. I like a lot... You just gave me the kick in the butt I needed.... but before I need to find a good aftermarket flares that could attach solidly to the fenders cause in here, QC, you get arrested pretty fast if part of the tire is larger then the fenders.... got anything in mind or I you leaving it like this ?

there is 2 types of lockers.... the one you add hardware between the spider gears (like a lock right locker) and the one where you completely change the heart or core of the differential (like an arb locker). Now an lsd "core" has already friction disks between the spider gear rendering it unusable to install the lockright locker type. But then again, maybe the inners of the lsd could be removed, but I don't know about that.... maybe the "core" is different and does not give access to insert anything..see the picture .. as for an ARB type of locker, having an lsd or not does not prevent you from installing since you are changing the whole "core" and only keeping the ring gear. Hope this helps..

you can do it with the right tools in 15 minutes per bushing.. here is my ol dpost that I did long time ago... --------------------------------- Jim at rock spyder 4x4 in markham, ON, recently did my link bushings and showed me how easy it is, with off course, the right tools... Here's summary 1) do one link at a time 2) torch the rubber bushing 3) use a zip gun to remove the sleeve 4) use a air sander to clean the inside of the link 5) use a peice of tubing, a socket and a press (or a vise) to insert the new bushing 6) re-install the link but do not tight the bolts..let very loose 7) once all bushing replaced, VERY IMPORTANT, drop the truck on ground, then proceed to tight all the links. some video of 1 link being done in 15 minutes.... amazing how a job can look easy when you have the right tools...(and experience) Torch: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0574.mp4 zip them: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0579.mp4 sandpaper the link: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0581.mp4 insert the new bushing: http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq71/steve_fleury3/front-locker-bushings-shocks/?action=view&current=CIMG0583.mp4

Yes, that's exactly my goal... just need time...again ...

A little update on these. I finally was able to install them on my truck and test them on the trail (rocks). I can tell that they do the job well as to resist full truck weight on rocks. I do not fear bending them anymore. On the other hand, some bugs need to be worked out. This test has shown me that the design has a flaw. The fact of having 2 heim joints per link makes the link noisy on and off the road. I will now modify the design and introduce a bushing at one end and keep the heim joint at the other. This will fix the issue... So back to the drawing board a bit. On the picture, you see that I tie-wrap the hand brake cable, but an aluminum tab was welded before I went to test. I just do not have a picture of it..

this is a picture of some 9000xl... you can see an arrow pointing down at the bottom... i'm almost 100% this is the orientation that I remember seeing at install time... http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/download/file.php?id=60092&sid=7bd49a1a85f1d44815ce0b6e9ad9619b&mode=view